Wheel backspacing requirement...Is this correct?

I have been reading a ton on what exactly the 1st gens require for wheel specs, but want to double check with the forum community...

Am I understanding this correctly in that we need approx 4-4.5" backspacing to clear the caliper, not rub, etc?

I have been looking at these wheel options:

ProComp 52s (come in both 4.25 and 4.5" backspacing)
Pro Comp Series 52 Link

or

ProComp 5001s (4.5" backspacing)

$139 Pro Comp 01 Series Raven, 16x8 Wheel with 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern - Satin Black - 5001-6883

Pro Comp Series 5001 Link


I plan to use 265/75 r16 duratracs for tires, no lift, 2001 doublecab

 

I would like to know this too, I have searched but have gotten many different answers.. I plan on getting some rims next week.

 

you can go as much as 5" BS...I have the 17x7.5 2010 Tacoma alloys, a little rub on left steering full lock drivers side tire before 1.25" HC spacers, running w/265's..

If you go less backspacing everything should clear without problems...

 

The problem is trying to go with as little backspace as possible, while not rubbing on the caliper etc (at least for me)...rather have the tires poke out a bit on a lower backspace if possible

 

3.75" backspacing is the optimal backspacing for 1st gens. Any less will cause more rubbing on the fender, and more than that will cause more rubbing on the UCA or frame.

 

I have 285 75 r16s on my stock 16" alloy wheels. It's got a 2.5" OEM suspension lift, too. I believe my stock wheels are 4.5" backspacing. They rub ever so slightly on the UCA and I'm wondering of 4.0"" or 3.75, as you suggest, would solve that for me. I'm worried that 3.75" will cause fender rubbing.

 

If you're worried about 3.75" backspacing will cause fender rubbing, 4" will be worse an tuck it in close to the uca and frame rails.

With my 33x12.50x15's on 3.75" backspacing, I have no rubbing except for the mud flaps. I have just the right amount of clearance of the uca at full droop and it tucks up into the fender perfectly when compressed.

 

I think you are going to get a lot of rub with no lift. I run 265/75/R16 Duratracs on 16X8 Dick Cepek rims with 3.5" of backspace. I have Bilstein 5100s struts at 2.5" lift setting with the stock springs. I still get mud flap rub with the wheels turned all the way over. Thinking about getting the Eibach springs to fix it but I'm not convinced the rub will go away. I could take the mud flaps off but I like the protection they provide.

 

Yeah, evidently 3.5" backspacing works well for 265/75's.

But if you ever plan on going with wider tires I'd go with 3.75" backspacing.

Up to you really and what your future plans are, either one will do well.

 

Now I'm totally confused... I thought that less backspacing made the wheel stick out further. See this link on measuring backspacing

I read that as more backspacing means the wheel sits further under the truck and less makes it protrude further out.

I'll freely admit that I could be totally wrong in my interpretation, however.

 

You are correct... I was saying it backwards.

Now I have to edit all of my posts... Haha

 

1st gen... there are too many variables to list...
including using different wheel diameters..

But the factory wheel is generally 16" or 15"
so I'll start with that.

Factory/OEM BS = 4.5"
a 265 (10.50" W) is the largest acceptable tire size...
using the factory BS'd wheels and fitted correctly.
One exception is the 255/85/16 (is a 33" tire. but 10.30" wide)
^ this tire will require modification like TLT or comb. susp./body lift

For tires 33" (11.50" W) - (285/75/16)
4.0" - 3.75" (3.75" works best)

33's will need 3.50" total lift to fit.
^ 2.50" suspension lift, combined with 1" BL gets there.
3.50" suspension lift is unattainable and would be fubar'd to attempt.

A 3.50" BS wheel may stick out too far...
possibly require the fender lip be trimmed.
but might be necessary to fit wider 33's (X 12.50" W)

Suspension lift alone, is not a proper solution for fitting larger tires !
Excessively lifting the suspension makes you out to be a off road pretender.

a narrower 35" tire can fit in the wheel well @ 4.0 - 3.75 BS'd
some modification (tubbing Wheel Well) plus some trimming would likely resolve many fitment issues.
The 12.50 width tire is lots more pita and with no real world gain.
A narrower tire works best for the Tacoma that has weak steering
components. Wider tires wear the steering components out faster.
If you must run 12.50 widths...
Get efficient at replacing steering racks and ITRE's.
If you pay someone else... gonna be a little spendy.

http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/viewarticle.php?id=63&catid=42

Suspension upgrades are still a must do..
but you don't need much actual lift.

 

I bought the pro comp 52 16x8 with 4.25 backspacing. they clear the caliper by a hair's width. But i'm also running a 3" Toytec Ultimate lift. The wheels look incredible. but the tires do hit the inside corner of the fender well...ever so slighty on reverse while turning 3/4 even after trimming and hammer down the sheet metal. I may need to add that 1" body lift.

Factory side step had to be removed.

 

So would I be able to run these with 3in of lift and 32 11.50 tire?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARE-7675183/

 

not sure exactly there, but my cousin runs 305/70-16 on his tacoma double cab. It rubs on full lock but the side step didn't have to be removed and we haven't looked into trimming yet. Also not sure what the backspacing is...came with the truck.

You might try a quick call to your local les swab or similar to see if the 11.5 inch would fit on a 10 inch tire.

 

Honestly I came from the vw world.. little tire stretch? No biggie..

 

I also need help with the tires, got my first Tacoma ever and put 3" lifting kit in front and 2" on back and got pro version rims 16" and will love to put 285 75 16 but don't know if will fit

This is the link to my question and pictures of the truck..
I will get the rims this Friday hope can help me by then

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/new-members/364263-help-rims-tires.html