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Old 04-19-2013, 08:55 PM   #1
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New rack bushings, now issue

Last week I installed new rack bushings and new sway bar bushings. Driving there fine but going over speed bumps it feels like something is loose. I did torque them down from a write up I used. Do you think I need to retorque them again? Has anyone had issues after the install?

I used wheelers poly bushings.

Thanks
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:32 AM   #2
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Check this out . It's worth a read. I'm planning on doing it cause that klunk drives me nuts.
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161689
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:02 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOTSONTROUT View Post
Check this out . It's worth a read. I'm planning on doing it cause that klunk drives me nuts.
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161689
I've seen that before, thanks for posting. Before the bushings I've never got that loose feeling going over speed bumps. Now all of the sudden I do.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:27 AM   #4
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I noticed mine after I put in my lift, rack and steering bushings as well. I jacked the front end up on the weekend (both wheels at once). I grabbed the driver side wheel to turn it into position and I heard the clunk. I did it a few times and looked at the steering wheel you could see when it clunked. Don't know when ill get to it but will let you know.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:39 AM   #5
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I always thought it was my sway bar or blown cv axle. I'm running 882 up front with out the winch bumper so its a little maxed . I swapped in the manual hubs and a set of ucas . Still got the clunk. The next thing is that mod. Will see.
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:04 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOTSONTROUT View Post
I always thought it was my sway bar or blown cv axle. I'm running 882 up front with out the winch bumper so its a little maxed . I swapped in the manual hubs and a set of ucas . Still got the clunk. The next thing is that mod. Will see.
Interesting. I'm running hoes up front 2.25" or so. I've got about 120K on them, urban wheeler, lol. I'm just glad I don't get that feeling normal driving...just over speed bumps. Let me know how it goes.

Thanks.
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:12 AM   #7
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With the new bushings there is almost no play in the rack, whereas there was before. So now alot more vibration and road bumps are transfered throught to the steering wheel. So what may have not been there before is now. I have the clunk on rough roads now more than i ever did before since changing my bushings. But i have checked for play in the shaft and i dont find any so i just deal with it.
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:47 AM   #8
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Did you replace them with OEM or poly bushings?

There are both hard and soft (OEM hardness) poly bushings. The hard will give you a more firm feedback and you'll feel the front end a little bit more, the softer ones will feel like OEM (meaning without all the additional harshness) but will have the benefits of poly (aka longer life).

I've got a set of Doorman (soft) poly bushings that I'm going to be putting FS when I get home that are the soft ones so PM me if you'd be interested.
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:31 AM   #9
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Being the originator of the the first "thunking" thread...
I'm to say... I've never corrected muh steering shaft clunk.
It does need correction... (eventually I'll get to it)

But it was not what caused the clunking on muh junk.
In muh case... I found that the radiator surround,
nearer the body mounts had cracked in several spots.
I had to weld that crappy pot metal back together for correction.
But that didn't fix all muh clunking problems...
Later I found that some clunking noises I was hearing...
were actually related to muh underbelly skids shifting on themselves.
No real fix for that... so I learned to ignore it.

Regardless of muh issues...
Any noise related to the steering shaft...
is usually noticed when turning the steering wheel.
It becomes more pronounced/obvious when traveling down washboard roads.
But it should not to be associated/confused with other suspension clunking noises.

But what I've read all too often,
is that many folk seem to think one fix resolves other's related complaints.
And tho' the steering shaft may be of issue...
it should not be confused with every suspension related noise.
And may not be what is of real complaint of the user.
^ usually due to the lack of detail by the user inquiring.

When new rack bushings are installed...
those will tighten the rack mounting up...
but they likely will not correct other suspension related issues.
And often will commonly exaggerate worn/failed components
causing the front end to behave poorly.

If play of movement exist after the rack bushings are installed...
I would suspect the inner/outer tie rod ends first.

If those have no slop of play in them...

Next I would consider the steering rack itself...
These racks are weak sauce... and poorly designed IMO
Often the internal rack guide becomes worn...
and allows for slop/play of internal rack/guide.
Movement can occur and the rack will technically move up and down slightly within the racks housing.
Allowing that play to continue... means...
the rack will fail and eventually bleed out at the racks end bushings once those have become worn/booger'd.

There is a write up on replacing the internal rack guide...
with a newly designed guide that is more durable then the original.

If the rack and steering linkage/components are proven to be ok
Then I would start looking at the suspension components.

Suspension components that need be checked for slop/play...

1. Upper and lower control arm bushing (play)
2. CO upper or lower end "eye" mount (play)
3. Upper and lower ball joints (movement)
4. Probably something I've forgotten to list.

The front end of the Tacoma is overly sensitive to failed components.
If new rack bushings are installed...
the front end will require a new alignment...
If that's not done... it will exaggerate other issues.

Many folk I know install the bushings... and do little to nothing after.
Expecting that to resolve their issues.
When that fails to correct their issues...
they commonly state the the rack bushings were a failure and did nothing to improve anything...
But they would be wrong.

My suggestion is if one don't understand the components involved..
and don't have a mechanical aptitude...
I would suggest they spend their money for professional services...

btw... a skilled alignment tech would be able to tell exactly what
component(s) may be worn and needing replacement.
But that requires paying for that service first.


Heck I've even read where on owner had a clunk
and for the life of 'im couldn't figure that out...
took it to an alignment shop...
and the tech pointed out a wheel was not seated correctly
and what was the cause of the owners clunk.

^silly I know... but sometimes it's the simple things.
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TACO TX View Post
With the new bushings there is almost no play in the rack, whereas there was before. So now alot more vibration and road bumps are transfered throught to the steering wheel. So what may have not been there before is now. I have the clunk on rough roads now more than i ever did before since changing my bushings. But i have checked for play in the shaft and i dont find any so i just deal with it.
Like I said before its feels fine on the road. No abnormal tire wear either. I'll just deal with it.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtrguy View Post
Did you replace them with OEM or poly bushings?

There are both hard and soft (OEM hardness) poly bushings. The hard will give you a more firm feedback and you'll feel the front end a little bit more, the softer ones will feel like OEM (meaning without all the additional harshness) but will have the benefits of poly (aka longer life).

I've got a set of Doorman (soft) poly bushings that I'm going to be putting FS when I get home that are the soft ones so PM me if you'd be interested.
Thanks but I've got wheelers bushing.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:07 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoDell View Post
Being the originator of the the first "thunking" thread...
I'm to say... I've never corrected muh steering shaft clunk.
It does need correction... (eventually I'll get to it)

But it was not what caused the clunking on muh junk.
In muh case... I found that the radiator surround,
nearer the body mounts had cracked in several spots.
I had to weld that crappy pot metal back together for correction.
But that didn't fix all muh clunking problems...
Later I found that some clunking noises I was hearing...
were actually related to muh underbelly skids shifting on themselves.
No real fix for that... so I learned to ignore it.

Regardless of muh issues...
Any noise related to the steering shaft...
is usually noticed when turning the steering wheel.
It becomes more pronounced/obvious when traveling down washboard roads.
But it should not to be associated/confused with other suspension clunking noises.

But what I've read all too often,
is that many folk seem to think one fix resolves other's related complaints.
And tho' the steering shaft may be of issue...
it should not be confused with every suspension related noise.
And may not be what is of real complaint of the user.
^ usually due to the lack of detail by the user inquiring.

When new rack bushings are installed...
those will tighten the rack mounting up...
but they likely will not correct other suspension related issues.
And often will commonly exaggerate worn/failed components
causing the front end to behave poorly.

If play of movement exist after the rack bushings are installed...
I would suspect the inner/outer tie rod ends first.

If those have no slop of play in them...

Next I would consider the steering rack itself...
These racks are weak sauce... and poorly designed IMO
Often the internal rack guide becomes worn...
and allows for slop/play of internal rack/guide.
Movement can occur and the rack will technically move up and down slightly within the racks housing.
Allowing that play to continue... means...
the rack will fail and eventually bleed out at the racks end bushings once those have become worn/booger'd.

There is a write up on replacing the internal rack guide...
with a newly designed guide that is more durable then the original.

If the rack and steering linkage/components are proven to be ok
Then I would start looking at the suspension components.

Suspension components that need be checked for slop/play...

1. Upper and lower control arm bushing (play)
2. CO upper or lower end "eye" mount (play)
3. Upper and lower ball joints (movement)
4. Probably something I've forgotten to list.

The front end of the Tacoma is overly sensitive to failed components.
If new rack bushings are installed...
the front end will require a new alignment...
If that's not done... it will exaggerate other issues.

Many folk I know install the bushings... and do little to nothing after.
Expecting that to resolve their issues.
When that fails to correct their issues...
they commonly state the the rack bushings were a failure and did nothing to improve anything...
But they would be wrong.

My suggestion is if one don't understand the components involved..
and don't have a mechanical aptitude...
I would suggest they spend their money for professional services...

btw... a skilled alignment tech would be able to tell exactly what
component(s) may be worn and needing replacement.
But that requires paying for that service first.


Heck I've even read where on owner had a clunk
and for the life of 'im couldn't figure that out...
took it to an alignment shop...
and the tech pointed out a wheel was not seated correctly
and what was the cause of the owners clunk.

^silly I know... but sometimes it's the simple things.
True. I did replace the outter tie rods with OE while I was in there and alignment afterwards.
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