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Old 05-09-2013, 09:46 AM   #21
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I wouldn't worry about it just tighten them and go if your worried about exact torque you need to replace studs exerytime you r&i wheels everytime a bolt is tightened it stretches the threads
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colby8100 View Post
I wouldn't worry about it just tighten them and go if your worried about exact torque you need to replace studs exerytime you r&i wheels everytime a bolt is tightened it stretches the threads

nope, aluminum wheels require correct torque every time, or else the
bolt hole chamfer deforms slowly over time (during installation) from overtorque and eventually becomes junk

if you use the 'gutentite' method (such as installing a spare on the road)
it is best to retorque to spec at the earliest opportunity
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:55 AM   #23
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Aluminum wheels also have to be retorqued every so many miles too and people don't do that plus aluminum causes galvanic corrosion when butted up to steel and your brakes are steel and so are the studs plus you should use some form of thread locker since aluminium expands and shrinks different than steel.and you should never reuse faseners. so everytime you take wheel off you got to replace lugs and studs , coat the studs to prevent corrosion, thread locker and torque it then ride around til everthing is warm and retorque ?
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colby8100 View Post
Aluminum wheels also have to be retorqued every so many miles too and people don't do that plus aluminum causes galvanic corrosion when butted up to steel and your brakes are steel and so are the studs plus you should use some form of thread locker since aluminium expands and shrinks different than steel.and you should never reuse faseners. so everytime you take wheel off you got to replace lugs and studs , coat the studs to prevent corrosion, thread locker and torque it then ride around til everthing is warm and retorque ?
Not exactly correct. There is absolutely no need to replace lug nuts every time they are removed. Or the studs for that matter. There are specific types of fasteners such as lock nuts and head bolts that are made to stretch or deform. These should not be reused but lugs and lugnuts are not single use.
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:36 PM   #25
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Also. Both the lug nuts and studs are steel. So difference in thread expansion is not an issue.
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:48 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slatercat View Post
Also. Both the lug nuts and studs are steel. So difference in thread expansion is not an issue.

^^^ and do not use threadlocker. there is no requirement for it and
using a liquid on the thread will multiply the force on the stud... by
the time you get to the correct torque reading, the actual holding force
of the nut and bolt will be above spec. lugs should go on clean and
dry. wire brush any stud rust and put on dry.


and u r correct: studs and nuts and meant to be re-used...it is known they get used
a lot, and goons without torque wrenches, are more common than with. the
studs and lug nuts are possibly the strongest bits of metal on the entire truck.
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:05 PM   #27
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I was just stating recomendations from factory for use of faseners and use of aluminum parts I'm certified toyota, nissian, gm, ase, I car, and bmw, and aluminum welding their making torque specs a mandatory sugestion and its not. For one most people don't know how to use one properly, and two how often do you have the calibration tested one drop and it could be off by a lot.then your telling me aluminium torque spec will be the same in the summer as in winter your wrong.all steel fasteners to aluminium recommend thread lock (bmw, Volkswagen, gm, and others come fron factory that way) thread lock only multiplys torque after being torqued once just like a normal nut does its just an agent to seal the threads and bod it to material (there are some brands with multiplying agents such as matco brand) all I'm saying is if torque is that big of a deal then you should go by all factory recomendations and no factory recommend reusing fasteners
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colby8100 View Post
I was just stating recomendations from factory for use of faseners and use of aluminum parts I'm certified toyota, nissian, gm, ase, I car, and bmw, and aluminum welding their making torque specs a mandatory sugestion and its not. For one most people don't know how to use one properly, and two how often do you have the calibration tested one drop and it could be off by a lot.then your telling me aluminium torque spec will be the same in the summer as in winter your wrong.all steel fasteners to aluminium recommend thread lock (bmw, Volkswagen, gm, and others come fron factory that way) thread lock only multiplys torque after being torqued once just like a normal nut does its just an agent to seal the threads and bod it to material (there are some brands with multiplying agents such as matco brand) all I'm saying is if torque is that big of a deal then you should go by all factory recomendations and no factory recommend reusing fasteners
Certified...
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:37 PM   #29
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There is no aluminum to steel fastening going on just because there are alloy rims. The lugs and nuts are steel. The rim is merely sandwiched between the hub and the nuts.
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:49 PM   #30
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Yea certified by the manufacturer to fix their cars. Yes the lug and stud are steel the wheel your ssndwiching isn't I expands at different rates than steel which would effect torque at different temps and cause the to loosen
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:56 PM   #31
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I find this certification very hard to believe. You are making posts full of misinformation.
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:47 PM   #33
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How common sense tells you two metals react different ar different temps the ALUMINUM (THE SHINY SILVER COLOR METAL) is what is being compressed (putting tension) against the lug at different temps the molecules are in different locations and since two metals don't expand and contract at the same rate at X (w/e temp) there is no way the torque rate will stay the same. That's y most companies use thread lock on factory wheels. What's miss leading. Your saying wheel torque is important it can't be on aluminum even if its an alloy its still not steel. Ps aluminum won't shoot sparks in case your not sure what metal it is hit it with a grinder or magnet.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:22 PM   #34
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And everytime a fasteners is torque the threads are stretched so all I'm saying is if torque is so important you need to replace everything for accurate readings but I forget yall drive 700 (new motor will be over 1100) hp Tacomas that were built in your back yards by yourselves and questioning my certification I work on anywhere from 6 - 20 different cars a week with maybe 2 come backs a month doing start to finish collision work most of my jobs average over 20hrs but you obviously know more than me
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:59 PM   #35
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It is a ridiculous assumption that the threads of all fasteners permanently deform at all torques. For high grade hardened steel such as that of lugs and nuts, the proper torque will not result in a stress on the bolt that is even close to the yield stress of the material. This is why they are able to be used over and over and over again.

For bolts such as those that secure the heads to the block, they are made to yield near the specified torque. If they did not then the sealing surface would be at risk of deformation. Or lock nuts that are made to increase the "grip" between the mating surface of the bolt and the nut. These are many times made to deform upon use, so they are considered "disposable".

I charge you to find a reputable publication anywhere that says all fasteners should be one time use.

Many people come on here looking for information that may not be so mechanically inclined. You are loading this thread with nonsense.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:09 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colby8100 View Post
And everytime a fasteners is torque the threads are stretched so all I'm saying is if torque is so important you need to replace everything for accurate readings but I forget yall drive 700 (new motor will be over 1100) hp Tacomas that were built in your back yards by yourselves and questioning my certification I work on anywhere from 6 - 20 different cars a week with maybe 2 come backs a month doing start to finish collision work most of my jobs average over 20hrs but you obviously know more than me
So for every 5,000 mile interval for rotation of tires, you replace all the lug nuts?
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:37 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scocar View Post
So for every 5,000 mile interval for rotation of tires, you replace all the lug nuts?
Doesn't everyone?
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:39 PM   #38
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No he said they over torqued them (that means if over torqued they stretch) the op was asking if that hurts anything no. There are also torque spec impact extension. Then yall start stating they have to be exact for aluminum no but thread locker is recommended and some companies advice torqueing aluminum wheels after operating temp. Then yall say don't use thread lock.since they were over tighten the threads should be replaced. But people use impacts all the time and never have problems. There is a video on YouTube that test different grades of bolts they torque and retorque them and everyone changes some. On a Toyota tech sheet Toyota does not recommended the reuse of any fastener and do not recommended the use of anything but new oem parts to repair one. So since yall were making such a big deal of wheel torque I was going over the top to prove a point. Because what will happen is someone trying to learn basics will read this and see they have to be exact torque and freek out and take it back to a shop complaining of improper procedures same nonsense as people wineing about body filler but every vehicle from the factory comes with it. So I was just trying to say it ain't a big deal don't worry about it but yall wanted to argue so...
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:08 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colby8100 View Post
No he said they over torqued them (that means if over torqued they stretch) the op was asking if that hurts anything no. There are also torque spec impact extension. Then yall start stating they have to be exact for aluminum no but thread locker is recommended and some companies advice torqueing aluminum wheels after operating temp. Then yall say don't use thread lock.since they were over tighten the threads should be replaced. But people use impacts all the time and never have problems. There is a video on YouTube that test different grades of bolts they torque and retorque them and everyone changes some. On a Toyota tech sheet Toyota does not recommended the reuse of any fastener and do not recommended the use of anything but new oem parts to repair one. So since yall were making such a big deal of wheel torque I was going over the top to prove a point. Because what will happen is someone trying to learn basics will read this and see they have to be exact torque and freek out and take it back to a shop complaining of improper procedures same nonsense as people wineing about body filler but every vehicle from the factory comes with it. So I was just trying to say it ain't a big deal don't worry about it but yall wanted to argue so...
Thanks for trying to help out people. He is right about fasteners stretching out under a certain torque. He is also right about aluminum acting different than steel.

I doubt it did any real damage to my studs on the drivers side though. I am not gonna put any thread lock on there either.
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:01 AM   #40
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Thread lock? Torque wrenches? You guys changing a wheel out or doing a head job?

I just set my old air gun to 3 and nail em.
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