E Locker issue! Not engaging correctly.

So I got my third re geared and into the new axle and the axle under the truck and everything together snug as a bug in a rug. Just as a side note I just drove 270 miles home after we got this done so the re gear and diff are dandy.

K so the issue. After the truck came off the lift I went to test it and no matter which position I had the locker switch in the tires would stay locked, now take note I wired and installed my own completely separate e locker circuit, but it seemingly worked fine when the third was out of the housing. The motor itself was working because every time I hit the button we could hear the actuator working.

So we pulled the truck back in and took out the motor and slid the locker slide gear with a screw driver to unlock it and we could spin the tires in open diff mode. We then put the locker motor back in with the locker gear slid a bit differently and when I hit the switch it would slide the locker to engage but it was like it would just barely catch because we could hear the diff ratcheting trying to engage but it couldn't, because our guess is the collar did not slide enough.

Also odd was that when I had the button depressed it disengaged the locker, and when the button was in the "off position" the locker tried to engage. Admittedly when I tested the wiring before installing I was not sure if being in or out was locked or unlocked, i just saw it move and assumed it was right. So with that, could there be a difference in how the motor works in "reverse" and "engage" mode? Like if the motor is being told to reverse when it should be locking is it spinning more or less than the locked command?

Tomorrow i am going to test my buddy's motor in my diff to see if the motor or the wiring is the issue. We have eliminated the gears inside the diff as the issue because we were able to slide them into locked and unlocked pretty easily with a screw driver, so if there was a binding issue that could not have happened.




Other info:

Wiring diagram






Testing outside the third:

Out:


In:

 

Sounds to me like either you got the wiring wrong or you're not installing the actuator correctly. Double check both of those areas and make sure they're done correctly and you shouldn't have any more problems. Plus, NEVER apply full twelve volts current to the actuator motor without involving the limit switches in the circuit. The absence of the limit switches will cause the actuator to jam or potentially even stripping the plastic gears inside. I know this first-hand .

 

Interesting..

Seems this would be first think id try Mark. Might have to get a transformer.

How much is needed? 9v probably?

 

When the actuator is in the vehicle and wired correctly then it is using twelve volts. When it's out of the vehicle and you want to test that it works without wiring in the limit switches then a D-size battery works fine.

 

oh i see what your saying..

intersting tho. Does it damage the motor at all?

 

I don't think it'll damage the motor. Just the mechanical components of the actuator.

 

so how does one test it with a d battery?

 

Take the two wires that power the motor and connect them to your battery. Switch polarity to run the motor in reverse. The motor will rotate very slowly because it's only 1.5 volts. The low voltage means nothing can be damaged.

 

It has never been tested without having it connected to the wiring diagram I posted above.

How did you power it? I ran a fuse tap to my 15a 4wd fuse in the cab and ran the power line off that.

 

In the cab I wired it up to the harness that can be found under the carpet under the driver's side seat. I had the factory ecu module and button and they were both plug and play. The light in my gage cluster was already there. I used this wiring diagram.
http://imgur.com/AZCdM1X

 

sweet thanks....
i have a spare that i have never tested....

 

Here is the install for the actuator. It might be of some help. Everything must be in the "lock" position for removal/install.

I use 2 D batteries in series for 3V, works fine and will overcome any "crusty" old grease. Step "G", page SA-198, is important (as is all the other stuff).

The first page picks up a tad before the actual actuator install part. Hope it helps.

 

That's an awesome diagram! Saved for sure!




Got it figured out. Herp derp wiring issue. Had some wires on the relay mixed up. Works perfectly now!

 

Great, a locker that locks (and unlocks) is a truly wonderful thing.

 

Booyah! Good to hear! Your truck has now reached a higher level of awesomeness!

 

haha ya, that was the kicker right there! It wouldn't unlock itself! Not good!

It is truly wonderful. I got the biggest sense of joy when I saw those back tires slipping and binding when we were testing it! Something that truck has never done! A locker truly is magical lol!

Dam right! Moab is gonna kick ass now!

 

I am glad to see my relay diagram is getting around! Of course thanks to D.F. too.

 

oh that was your diagram. Thanks a ton for making it! So glad I found it and it showed it was an easy solution to still use the factory switch. SO many props for it man!

 

Yeah, I posted that up over at YT. My next adventure will be wiring up an E-Locker into my 3rd gen 4Runner. This time I am going to try to duplicate the bulb flash when the locker is between states. My first thought was a cheap thermal flasher but I don't really want the annoying turn signal sound they generate. The next step would be an electric version at about $30. Kind of a lot of $ just to have a bulb flash but I have wasted more on even dumber things.

 

Have any of you guys messed with a 3rd gen locker at all? I so badly want a locker anytime mod for it. 1st gen was EASY AF. Ground the gray wire.... Today's trucks are WAY more complex, but you fellas seem rather savy with this sorta thing. Figured it's worth asking....