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Best Radiator Fluid???

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Mainmoe02, May 22, 2013.

  1. May 22, 2013 at 7:26 AM
    #1
    Mainmoe02

    Mainmoe02 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3" lift EIBACH coils w/ 5100's front, OME/ Dakar leaf springs w/ toytec adjustable shackles at 1.5" and 5125's out back. 33x10.5x15 KM2's Relentless DIY steel bumper.
    I've heard lots of people say that its best to use the "red" coolant that you would buy from the dealership. From my experience I would say not to. But that's only my opinion. Here's why...

    I was changing the T-belt the other day and realized my water pump was corroded with what looked like a red substance that dyed the metal around the pulley ASWELL. First thought was did the red engine coolant eat through the metal of the water pump? After doing some research and talking to a couple mechanics, they confirmed what I was thinking. Basically what I was told is that after long use of that red Toyota coolant it corrodes metals other than the engine block. The block is strong enough to withstand the red coolant. But with the metal that is on the OEM water pump isn't. Eventually it will start to corrode and cause problems unless caught early. Mind you this is the first time I've changed the water pump and its a 2001. So about 12-13 years of using the Red coolant from Toyota will start to corrode some metals that it comes in contact with. I also heard the "pink" coolant that's out there will do the same.

    All the is from my own experience and research. It's only my .02

    If anyone else has had this problem with the use of Red coolant let us know.

    Thanks!
     
  2. May 22, 2013 at 7:32 AM
    #2
    JDMcQ

    JDMcQ Well-Known Member

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    I saw no such corrosion in my 2003 when I pulled the pump. Sounds like your water pump was leaking a little bit. Not necessarily from the coolant.
     
  3. May 22, 2013 at 7:52 AM
    #3
    127.0.0.1

    127.0.0.1 AKA ::1

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    completely false, no toyota coolant corrodes any part of a toyota cooling system
    any more than any other coolant. if you get a drop of oil in the system seals
    will be affected (such as blown gaskets and oil gets in there, or ATF)

    corrosion happens over time due to a combination of electro-chemical processes
    (pitting, leaching, galvanic corrosion...all about electrical potential between metals)
    and motion of the coolant, or lack thereof, and becomes greater at lower velocities
    (you let it sit still for a month it will corrode more than if left running)

    acids and oils will always get into the cooling system,
    that is why coolant needs to be changed on a regular basis

    change and flush the coolant at recommended intervals, and use what toyota specifies
    and if that is not available, then use 'prestone 50-50 all vehicle all types'.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2013
  4. May 22, 2013 at 8:15 AM
    #4
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    ^ I'd find new mechanic's

    The water pump on 1st gen commonly leak...
    starts with a small seep... crusts up...
    but will eventually blow.

    Has nothing to do with the coolant.
    It's the cheap paper gasket that was used.

    Newly designed water pump gaskets are metal I think.
    Suppose to last longer.

    Some folk just rtv the pump... call it good.

    I've been using the factory coolant since my junk was new...
    water pump leaked at around 90K. (was replaced)

    My current water pump is still holding it's seal after 140K

    -------------------------

    btw... the only difference between pink and red is...

    Red is concentrate (requiring dilution)

    Pink is a pre-mix
     
  5. May 22, 2013 at 8:25 AM
    #5
    Tonysarus

    Tonysarus New Member

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    can anyone confirm if propylene glycol can be used undilluted for better heat exchange protection. this is the "Pet safe" green stuff. I saw a thread years ago that recommended it undiluted. but even if its so, is it ok for Toyotas?
     
  6. May 22, 2013 at 9:34 AM
    #6
    Yamaha Dave

    Yamaha Dave Well-Known Member

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    I would say if you got 12-13 years on your original water pump than you did well. However I would definately get a new mechanic. Here is what Toyota has said about their own Red coolant that I posted in another thread.


    "Toyota recommends Genuine Toyota Long Life Antifreeze Coolant (factory red fluid) as the first choice when maintaining your vehicle. Toyota coolant was developed to meet the specific requirements of our engines and provides maximum protection without the use of harmful silicates. Silicates, a main ingredient in the vast majority of antifreeze coolants, can actually damage the water pump seal, causing leakage. Our coolant is a high-performance, non-silicate coolant that provides better protection for metals without deterioration of the water pump seal."
     
  7. May 22, 2013 at 11:16 AM
    #7
    koco

    koco Well-Known Member

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    Around $26,000 worth of unleaded in the fuel tank.
    The old green coolants had silicates (abrasives) added to help keep the iron block, heads and water pump free of rust. This is not good for softer aluminum like the tacoma's water pump.

    I think the Toyota engineers were skilled enough to figure out what coolant will work, and that's what I would use. Other coolant might work ok, but who knows. It doesn't seem like it's worth trying to save $10 on coolant to trust the word of the auto parts store clerk.
     
  8. May 24, 2013 at 9:19 AM
    #8
    MowTaco

    MowTaco Well-Known Member

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    I used "Zerex Asian Vehicle" stuff from O'reilly... I don't remember why but I did research it at the time and it was correct for me
     
  9. May 24, 2013 at 11:52 AM
    #9
    ARB1977

    ARB1977 It’s a beaut Clark

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    Your mechanics a full of chit. Any coolant can cause issues if its not changed every once in a while. I go no more than 60K on my changes and I use red. The other day I changed out my factory thermostat since I hit 150K. Absolutely no corrosion or residue in the radiator or housing.

    If you use anything else other than what the manufacture recommends your going to have issues down the road.
     
  10. May 24, 2013 at 11:57 AM
    #10
    ARB1977

    ARB1977 It’s a beaut Clark

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    Get the red and be done. Actually pure water is a better heat transfer but you need the lubercating properties to keep corrosion and other harmful particals away. Once winter time comes you'll be screwed if you don't have coolant.
     

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