4.88 vs 4.56 gears 2.7L

Hear ya go man

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-14...locker-nitro-front-rear-gear-package-kit.html

 

Just because your screaming down the freeway docent necessarily mean your suckin fuel like crazy. With my gear swap im only 200RPM over what my engine should be running down the freeway at 65mph. Id rather be a little higher on the rpm side then way low lugging the hell out of it. Lugging wastes more fuel then barely touching the throttle to maintain speed.

 

^^^ this. Get an ultra gauge and check it out. I get better fuel economy at about 2750-2900 rpm than 2000. Less load on the engine the higher the rpms.

 

thanks so much

 

I'm jumping in here, new to the site and toyoto building, I have a 96 tacoma with 12 inch wide wheels with 35 12.50 15 tires, auto matic tranny 3.4 v6, door code says I have 3.91 gears I called summit raceing they cacaleted it and said to get back to like stock with my 35 tires to go with 456 I orderd 4.88 I do mostly high way driving out in country county roads, no big high ways are communtes over 20 miles, I drive around 60 65 mph, went with 4.88 cause I wanted a little more pep than stock, did I choose right? And only ordered ring and pinion, didn't order master rebuild kit, will I be ok without?

 

I have a 3rz stick with 3" lif5 and 285s, I went 4.88s couldnt be happier. I still get 21-22mpg on the highway

 

I just got in my 488 motive gear ring and pinion, didn't order a new pinion bearing... Is my 391 pinion bearing I have now same size I need for my 488 pinion? Reason for asking can I just run down to my local parts store and buy a pinion bearing for my stock 391 pinion and it fit my new 488 pinion?

 

Yup, Nothing in the differential (size wise) has changed except of course the ring and pinion so you will be fine getting one from a local parts store. HOWEVER... you will need new shims, crush sleeve(s) if 4x4 and possibly an assortment of other parts as well. Also depending on if they need to press carrier bearings and others parts out, the old ones will be destroyed from the process. Honestly your better off buying a master rebuild kit. It will make your life a lot easier then having to piece together extra parts you will need which may lead to longer down time because of waiting. It will also give you peace of mind knowing you have all new parts.

 

Thanks for the info, when u ordered my 488 gears I paid 240$ they have a instaltion kit with everthing needed but it's 350$ so that's 600$ in just parts plus the labor to get them installed and this is just the rear end still got to do the front so I'm looking at 1500$ to 2000$ To re gear my truck for my 35 tires, I want it to last but trying to not spend any more than I got to, really got me thinking is it worth 2000$ just where I can run 35 tires are would it make more since just to down size my tires back to 33s are factory 31s and ride and save all this $$$$

 

I understand the want/need to save money but gears are not one of them. If you develop leaks or if you shatter the ring gear, the little extra $$$ spent at the beginning saves big $$$ repairing the damage.

 

Odd, I see the opposite with scangauge. 2000 rpm is not lugging for me, and I rarely exceed 2000 rpm.

If I'm going 60 at 2000 rpm in 5th and drop to 4th and 2500 rpm mpg will suffer.

 

Other side of the coin; I have 4.30s with manual tranny. It drives "okay" on the 33x12.5 duratracs...

33s on 4.30s, is equivalent to 31s on 4.10s as far as the ratios go... thats decent.

I want to go with arb lockers, but $3-4k for lockers & gears is turning out to be hard to stomach all at once with everything else (bumpers/sliders/skids/wheels&tires/lift/winch); also I think I may want to go to 35s later but am not sure...

And I have a nice set of 265/70r16 Michelin M/S2s on the stock wheels that should have 60k left on them; be nice to through those on for long road trips & just switch them there...

So I am thinking of only doing rear arb locker for now, and get sliders/bumpers/lift/winch & go wheeling for a while and see if I want to go to 35s; if I do, then re-gear & with the front locker...

But I could just do both lockers now with 4.88s, and be okay with 33s or 35s and dont go nuts wheeling postponing the bumpers/winch/lift

Thoughts?

 

IMO, sliders should be the first mod. They'll protect alot of the body from damage and if they have kick-outs, will help you bump steer through tight spaces.

After that, especially if your tires are still good, is to go out and wheel. Then, you'll begin to see what areas need improvement. You may find that 35's and ARB's are unnecessary for what you do. You may also find that articulation (by a lift) and skids will get you through areas you didn't think possible.

 

I've gone a little goofy with the sequence:

So I got the second set of wheel/tires and the stockers have lots of life left; the new is 33x12.5 duratracs on 15x8 3.7" backspacing (would go with 4.25" if I could do it again) ultra torque wheels through tirerack. Just need to do a little more work to get them to clear driver side firewall (lock to lock at full stuff on the stock suspension).

The wify was tired of me drooling over big tires online for hours & hours; she was like "get um" and I said "its gunna take a bunch of other things" and she said "have fun", so yeah the wheelset got the ball rolling on mods

Budsbuilt skid & belly pan just arrived, and sliders are next on the list. Looking for bolt-ons that are about as strong as welded; finally found some but haven't pulled the trigger....

So I guess I'll do sliders & also a rear bumper too with protection for the body after the rear wheels now, per your body protection recommendation (and lift soon) and wheel for a good while then re-evaluate for lockers, re-gear, & tire size

Thanks! Sounds like a good plan...

 

I'm also debating on what gears to go to. I've recently decoded that my '96 has 3.58s. I want to go to 4.10s since that's what my '08 2.7 has in it and it feels perfect to me. I don't plan to run anything bigger than 265/75s. I was wondering if it is possible to go to 4.10s or is 4.56s my best bet?

 

dude you must have decoded that wrong. no 1st gens came with R+P gears that low.

 

as far as the fuel mileage and rpm debate goes, most engines get there best mileage cruising at peak torque, its not always about low rpms. That being said I have no idea where peak torque falls in the powerband for the 3rz so if anyone knows that could be useful info.

as for gearing I have 4.10s and 31"s and think I would love some 4.88s even with the small 31"s. The 4.10s work fine for typical driving, but My taco don't see alot of highway drivin and up in the rocks it still takes a good amount of clutch work in the technical stuff so I think 4.88s would be awesome as I wouldn't need to abuse the clutch as much and would give room to grow if I decide to go to 33"s

 

This is where I got my info: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tacoma-gear-ratio.521302/ ( after reading the whole thread they say it may be incorrect)

that's what I get for just skiming. I'll do some more digging.

 

Correction. Meant to say that high lol

 

Here is the sheet for diff codes


https://www.dropbox.com/s/6iidyyk5s3k4k73/All_Toyota_Truck_Axle_Codes.pdf?dl=0

If anything you have 3.90s..maybe

4.10s and 31s is great.