Intake in fender?

Whats up everyone? Does anyone know where the tube from the airbox goes in the fender? I know it goes back toward the passenger compartment, but how far and if it turns down, how far down does it go? I could tear my fender well apart to find out, however, asking seemed like the better 1st choice. It's a 3.4L 2002. appreciate it if anyone knows

 

Anyone.........nobody? Alright, how about this? I'll dig into my fender and find out, and when I do that, I'll take and post pics....just in case some other inquiring mind wants to know.

It may be useless info, but I'm curious and want to know.

 

I actually took that tube out of the fender and it goes straight back to the end of the fender nearest the cab. theres no turn or anyhting just straight back to the engine compartment again.

 

For a 6 cyl, look here: http://4runners.org/writeups/airbox/index.html

 

do the elbo mod its where you remove the elbo that connects the intake to that tube....

http://www.gadgetonline.com/AirInduction.htm#Remove the Elbow:

 

Ok the elbow mod has proven it's self time and time again so every one wanting the performance of an aftermarket intake but wants to keep thier engine compartment looking like it did from the factory this is for you.

1. Remove 3 bolts holding airbox in place.

2. Loosen clamp on mass air flow sensor.

3. Remove airbox (be careful not to damage mass air sensor)

4. Remove 2 bolts holding intake elbow to fender.

5. Remove intake elbow

Ok at this point you can install your performance air filter (TRD, Amsol or K&N) and put everthing back together or you can go ahead and remove the rest of the intake located inside the fender. I went ahead and removed the rest of the intake because I did not want to have any rattles after I put it all back together.

1. Remove 5 bolts and 1 nut holding the factory fender flare on.

2. Pull back upper liner inside wheel well (to do this you will have to remove 5-6 push through tabs they are easy enough to figure out just don't break them).

3. Remove 1 bolt holding intake duct to fender.

4. Remove intake duct.

5. Reinstall everything.

6. Enjoy the extra money in your pocket.
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I got these pics from another forum but you get the idea
First of all, you gotta unbolt the front intake-elbow... heres the K&N FIPK, so before i could get the front intake elbow out, I had to take the cone filter off. this attachment shows where the bolts are located on the front and rear sections of the intake-elbow... you'll get the idea when you see the picture. the yellow circles indicate where the bolts are on the front and rear intake-elbow assembly... the front section of the intake-elbow assembly is accessable from the engine compartment, and once you get the two bolts that secure it unscrewed, you can wiggle the front intake-elbow off. the rear section i will discuss in the next few posts.





the next few steps can be omitted (skipped). The rear section of the intake-elbow assembly is in the fender, and only accessable if you get the plastic wheel well lining off (or in my case, partly off). From what i've read, you can leave the rear intake-elbow on without a problem, but it might rattle a bit.

If you chose not to skip this and the next couple steps, heres how to get the plastic wheel well lining off.

There are 4 plastic clips and 3 bolts holding the front portion of the plastic wheel well liner on... the last 5 clips are inaccessable... this picture shows the last 5 clips that I DID NOT REMOVE... I appologize for the picture, I havent washed my truck in almost a month now . the yellow circles show approximately where these 5 clips are... like i said, dont bother trying to remove them.



these plastic clips can be removed by squeezing the shaft of the clip with a pair of needle nose pliars... fingers work too (specially for cramped spaces). this attachment shows the shafts of the first two clips that i removed from the engine compartment.



this next attachment shows the head side of the clips from the last attachment




this attachment shows the locations of the three bolts you must remove in order to remove (or in my case, just move) the plastic wheel well lining



now its time to remove the last 2 clips... i couldnt get a clear shot at these, so you'll just have to feel around for them. they're somewhere within the yellow oval... not hard to find.




now that you have the 4 clips and 3 bolts that hold the plastic wheel well lining out, you can wiggle the lining and move it so that you have access to the 2 bolts that hold the rear section of the intake-elbow assembly. heres the same attachment as in one of the previous posts to show where the rear bolts to the rear intake-elbow assembly are.... approximately!




and here's the finished product... less resistance... and some top-end gains! woohoo!!!!!!!!

 

Interesting. I never did tear my fender apart to find out for myself. I was more concerned with the engine taking a big gulp of water in certain situations, anyhow, appreciete the responses.

It's reassuring to see that members are diving deep into TW's past and responding to posts that went unanswered.

 

so long as you aren't swimming with your taco you shouldnt have a problem but if you wanted to you could do a deck plate mod on the air filter box to be able to.

Tacoma world Rocks

 

actually hes right the deck plate mod would be the best gain and its pluggable for when you go offroad great mod and has been dyno proven to produce more hp than almost any of the after market intakes out there available for our trucks, mainly because when you change the size and length of the intake tube it has to be tuned or the maf reads wrong so theres a couple intakes out there that actually cause a loss in hp for our trucks. with the deck plate everything is stock and factory tuned but you get ALOT more flow about 7hp i wanna say it was dynoed at.... theres a noticeable gain for the old but dyno for ya!

 

Thats weird! why does it go back and then end, It seems like it would get less air flow that way. Oh well, Just glad I got my K&N. Oh... and the dyno page showed about a 9hp gain to my truck. So I dont know if the deck plate gives the best?

 

Even if the deck plate isn't the best, you'll never beat the $10 pricetag!

 

Amen 10 dollar taco mod

 

Although I've known about the deck plate mod for sometime, I've been saving it for one of those shi++y times when I'm dirt broke and desperate for a mod.

 

That is a awsome deal!!!