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Rear differential lock...

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by sull625, Jun 4, 2013.

  1. Jun 5, 2013 at 11:56 AM
    #21
    ToyTacosRule

    ToyTacosRule Well-Known Member

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    What is the max speed that can be hit before it cannot be engaged? also does the truck have to be stopped to engage it with this mod? I have rear dif lock on my truck but I have never had to use it in the sands at the beach nor any mud holes I have hit and never really bothered with it since it was a hassal to mess with 4 lo haha.
     
  2. Jun 5, 2013 at 12:28 PM
    #22
    BigOly

    BigOly Well-Known Member

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    I think I read somewhere that it was 5mph. I personally experienced the locker indicator blinking differently if you are going too fast and read that eventually the system will engage once you slow down. Remember that blinking = unlocked , solid = locked.

    I personally wouldn't recommend that you try engaging the locker past 1-2mph if you don't need to but that's just using my common sense rule.
     
  3. Jun 5, 2013 at 12:47 PM
    #23
    ToyTacosRule

    ToyTacosRule Well-Known Member

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    Right, just was wondering incase I did do this mod, I highly doubt I would accidently hit that button but just curious as to was the highest it would engage at, just incase. Thanks for the info, this mod sounds like a good idea incase I ever need it.
     
  4. Jun 5, 2013 at 12:47 PM
    #24
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    The problem with your statement is driving the "S" pattern is to ENGAGE the locker, not to drive like that when it IS engaged, no one was suggesting otherwise & there has only been 1 or 2 times i can remember when engaging it from a dead stop, every other time it was engaged driving slowly,turning gently from left to right.. I don't know how turning front wheels from left to right from a stand still is helping the diff engage seeing how its not moving to allow lining up & locking , & I use mine often...

    & no reason for name calling FWIW




    I agree Grey wire MOD is the single best MOD you can do, & very easy
     
  5. Jun 5, 2013 at 12:48 PM
    #25
    Mr. Biscuits

    Mr. Biscuits gentleman and a scholar

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    Yeah keep her under 5. But I've engaged at 10 and turning cuz these lockers are picky when they engage so I had to get the differential lined up. As long as your not on pavement your pretty set. Any grip the tires put down can slip on dirt so you're not tearing up the locked differential. But don't go fast. Go do it you wont like the feeling
     
  6. Jun 5, 2013 at 1:03 PM
    #26
    127.0.0.1

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    use it or lose it is proven on the e-locker and e-brake

    e-locker needs some use to engage quicker, man my 4runner was
    so hard to get e-locker to go it and out, and when it did, KLANGGGGgggGG

    now after about 144 'I really need to use the locker' situations, it goes
    in ultra smooth and very fast...almost instantly all the time now

    e-brake needs some use or the bellcranks seize from lack of use
    and any water that gets in
     
  7. Jun 5, 2013 at 1:13 PM
    #27
    gainman

    gainman Semper Fi

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    Op obviously does not have much experience with the diff lock, nor 4lo even as he states which is ok. I was just making sure he doesn't drive a big s pattern because diff locked or not it's not a good idea when in 4lo. No reason for name calling is right.
     
  8. Jun 5, 2013 at 1:34 PM
    #28
    Southern01Taco

    Southern01Taco Well-Known Member

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    I'm sorry, but I'm failing to see where it is a bad idea. It's understood that locked, you are obviously going to have some binding in the rear diff because the axles are locked together, though its still not enough to break an axle or blow the diff the first time you do it. But 4low isn't going to make something bind more than 4high, it's just different gearing. And for the rear 4high is no different than 2high. If you are saying that because of the higher torque from the lower gearing, that's understood also. But you shouldn't have anything binding at all, especially unlocked. You should be able to turn your wheel as far as it will go and move without breaking. Now if you bind a wheel up with the wheel turned all of the way then, yea, you have a higher chance of breaking because the cv is weakest when it is angled which is why it is not the greatest idea to lock the front of these trucks. But on flat ground and open diff their should be no problem at all. I'm not trying to start an argument, just wanting to see if you know something that I don't.
     
  9. Jun 5, 2013 at 3:24 PM
    #29
    gainman

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    so you are saying that i can go to my truck, put it in 4wd low or high, crank the wheel all the way to the left and drive in circles as tight as possible in my driveway with nothing to worry about? my bad guess i was mis-informed.
     
  10. Jun 5, 2013 at 3:38 PM
    #30
    Southern01Taco

    Southern01Taco Well-Known Member

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    Yep. That's exactly what I'm saying. As long as you don't mat it like you were trying to cut donuts or something. Why would toyota design the steering to go farther than the cv's will allow? Plus, unless the truck has manual hubs, the axles are always turning. So if the cv's are, in fact, binding while you are turning then they should break in 2wd. Now if you have a locker up front then that is a completely different story.
     
  11. Jun 5, 2013 at 4:04 PM
    #31
    gainman

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    well then i retract everything i said in this thread. curious why there are a million threads on this site telling you not to do that.
     
  12. Jun 5, 2013 at 4:42 PM
    #32
    Southern01Taco

    Southern01Taco Well-Known Member

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    Well because the majority of the people on this website go off of what the book says or what other people say rather than finding out through experience. And I understand, because a lot of people play it safe because they can't afford to fix it or dont know how to fix it when it breaks. I'm just simply stating that this forum, in particular, is more of the middle man between customtacos, (which is more hardcore 2wd trucks) and ttora (which has more hardcore wheelers). I look at this site as a good place to go if you are new to tacoma's and 4wd's and need fairly general questions answered. When you start getting more technical a lot of people just go off of what the manual says, which is definitely the safest route.
     
  13. Jun 5, 2013 at 5:33 PM
    #33
    127.0.0.1

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    LOLOLOCaust

    failpost ^^^^

    the cv's won't bind

    but the transfer case will receive an unholy load
    and if you continue this it will bust open someday. FAIL
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2013
  14. Jun 5, 2013 at 5:52 PM
    #34
    Southern01Taco

    Southern01Taco Well-Known Member

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    Why is it any different than running it offroad? That doesn't make any sense. That is like saying that you are going to blow the transmission on a 2wd by turning on asphalt. You should not have any type of feedback into the t-case from the ground. If that was the case, you would blow the diff or u-joint or break the output shaft on the t-case way before you blow up the inside of the t-case. But that's just not possible, an open diff is exactly that, it allows the outside wheel to turn faster than the inside, taking all of the stress off of the driveline.
     
  15. Jun 5, 2013 at 5:59 PM
    #35
    IDtrucks

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    LOL there is so much fail in this thread!

    First off, if you like you truck switch the locker on and off when the truck is stopped, then move to engage it. You can run it as fast as you want with it locked, just dont expect the collar to match up smoothly going over 5mph. there will be some scary noises coming from back there.

    Second, the binding in your truck is between the front and rear drive shafts because when you are in 4hi or lo your t case is essentially "locked" to spin them at the same speed. The pressure from binding is released with tire slip in low traction situations. So if you must drive in a figure 8 or s turns do it in a dirt lot. Even in very low traction situations like snow the front will still bind when you turn (pretty sure this is due to hard cv steering angles), so when you are doing this when you feel the front bind back off a bit and vwala, no more bind. However if it takes you more than one figure 8 motion to get it to engage or disengage there is probably a problem with the locker.

    when you are using the cv axles to propel the vehicle in 4wd there is power going through those axles. when the steering angle is tight enough that power will bind that joint. The cv axles can only turn so far before they start to protest under load
     
  16. Jun 5, 2013 at 6:01 PM
    #36
    tomtom

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    This.

    Putting it in 4WD and putting it into a tight turn on pavement won't affect the CVs if you have an open diff. It'll put a lot of torque on moving parts in the transfer case since the front wheels are taking a path that is different length than the rear wheels are taking.

    The transfer case does not work like an open differential. It drives front and rear the same with the expectation that the tires are on a slippery enough surface to need 4WD.
     
  17. Jun 5, 2013 at 6:05 PM
    #37
    IDtrucks

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    this is where the grey area starts...from experience it seems that the truck binds in two places, the front and rear drive shafts and the cv axles. in multiple trucks maneuvering around a snow covered ski hill parking lot if you turn sharp enough you can feel the bind in the steering wheel, so you back off. This does not happen the same in 2wd, so i can only assume when the cv axles are trying to pull the truck they reach a point where the joints bind under load, as i said more generally just now.
     
  18. Jun 5, 2013 at 6:15 PM
    #38
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    I haven't experienced the steering feel you speak of. I have only felt the truck lurching as if one end is attempting to travel farther than the other, kind of like plate tectonics and land buckling.

    Backing off of the steering would also have the affect of the front end traveling a path length closer to that of the rear, releasing the binding in the transfer case.


    Either way, I think we're all in agreement that running tight turns in 4WD on dry pavement is bad.
     
  19. Jun 5, 2013 at 6:24 PM
    #39
    Southern01Taco

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    First of all, thank you guys for giving logical answers that actually makes sense.

    I guess you're right. I didn't think of the front wheels turning at different speeds than the rear. Now that I think about it, that's why there are clutches in the center diffs of AWD cars. I still don't see where there is enough binding to hurt anything. I mean, I'm not saying, you can go out and drive it on the highway but simply making a s or 2 in order to lock the diff shouldn't hurt anything. Also, now that I think about that, who the hell is locking it in 4wd and locking the diff on dry pavement in the first place.
     
  20. Jun 5, 2013 at 6:56 PM
    #40
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    I'm seriously considering dropping my rear driveshaft, throw it in 4WD and a tight turn and see what happens.
     

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