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95 4x4 that needs serious maintenance. SUGGESTIONS?!?

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Old 06-29-2013, 09:03 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by dstock View Post
Yeah I plan to get new seats because I can feel the springs stick me in the back on mine! I can't seem to make my mind up on them yet but I like the idea of getting some from a 4runner. Well I just got a gallon of bed liner and am about to start slopping it everywhere
I don't remember if the cab had drain holes. You may want to consider that, and use the bung caps from a Heep Wrangler.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:56 AM   #22
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Ive got a pdf of the full manual pm me your email addy if you want it
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:07 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Buckoma View Post
Blown CVs do click and it's probably that, but it could also be a loose heat shield over the cat or a slightly bent dust shield on the wheel, probably the CV.

You have a good list, I'll second the seafoam and ball joint check. There's no cabin air filter. When you take it for an alignment they should be able to tell you if tie rods are shot. Run a quality complete fuel system cleaner over a few fill-ups. With that many miles you might consider Restore oil restorer and lubricant. The burnt smell is probably just old oil from the breather, I wouldn't worry too much about that. The shifter has a rectangular metal housing and it could be worn... don't know. Change out the tranny oil and there's a little tank next to the master cylinder, suck out as much of that shit as you can and fill new stuff to the line, that should help the shifter wobble a little.
is there a breather on top of the tranny and t case? I took the shift boot and that metal plate off and noticed what seems to be a small metal cap that is sorta bent/crimped onto a valve. and the shifter is definelty worn bad. I didnt take it off to further inspect since I did not have any rpv to seal it back. I attached a pic of the shifter so this "breather" or whatever it is can be identified. sorry the pic is so small. The part I am talking about is the brass colored cap that is in front of each shifter. whatever it is, it seems to be leaking a small amount of fluid because there is shit caked all over the top of the tranny and tcase.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:10 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by YOTA LOVER View Post
I don't remember if the cab had drain holes. You may want to consider that, and use the bung caps from a Heep Wrangler.
what do you mean by this? and the cab does have several drain holes but they have plugs in them that seem to be pretty solid.
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstock View Post
is there a breather on top of the tranny and t case? I took the shift boot and that metal plate off and noticed what seems to be a small metal cap that is sorta bent/crimped onto a valve. and the shifter is definelty worn bad. I didnt take it off to further inspect since I did not have any rpv to seal it back. I attached a pic of the shifter so this "breather" or whatever it is can be identified. sorry the pic is so small. The part I am talking about is the brass colored cap that is in front of each shifter. whatever it is, it seems to be leaking a small amount of fluid because there is shit caked all over the top of the tranny and tcase.
That crimped looking cap should be the breather. Right below the cap there should be a nut. Apply wrench and remove. Find right size 90 degree fitting and relocate in the engine bay. It's probably not truly leaking per se, but over time 90 weight has been flung into it over time and slowly seeped out. Is it stinky?

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Originally Posted by dstock View Post
what do you mean by this? and the cab does have several drain holes but they have plugs in them that seem to be pretty solid.
That's exactly what I was talking about. Because you're linexing it (for ease of hosing out later) I would use the Heep Wrangler style of plugs so you can easily remove them for washing and draining purposes.
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:27 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOTA LOVER View Post
That crimped looking cap should be the breather. Right below the cap there should be a nut. Apply wrench and remove. Find right size 90 degree fitting and relocate in the engine bay. It's probably not truly leaking per se, but over time 90 weight has been flung into it over time and slowly seeped out. Is it stinky?


That's exactly what I was talking about. Because you're linexing it (for ease of hosing out later) I would use the Heep Wrangler style of plugs so you can easily remove them for washing and draining purposes.
yeah the gunk caked all over the tranny and t case is super sticky and feels just like white lithium grease. And I will look into the plugs you are talking about.
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:08 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by dstock View Post
The carpet in this truck was freaking disgusting!!.
I've received samples from these guys (disregard the color in the listing... they have tons of colors and different carpet options) and it's high quality stuff.

I like the idea that they don't box it until just prior to shipping so it doesn't get all bent out of shape, etc

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-2004-To...xp=mtr&afsrc=1
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:33 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Madjik_Man View Post
I've received samples from these guys (disregard the color in the listing... they have tons of colors and different carpet options) and it's high quality stuff.

I like the idea that they don't box it until just prior to shipping so it doesn't get all bent out of shape, etc

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-2004-To...xp=mtr&afsrc=1
well if I dont like the bedliner in the cab I guess I would just throw something like this on top of it. I would be out painting it on right now but its pissing rain I spent almost the entire day yesterday prepping the truck and sanding the shit out of everything to be bedlinered
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:35 AM   #29
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well if I dont like the bedliner in the cab I guess I would just throw something like this on top of it. I would be out painting it on right now but its pissing rain I spent almost the entire day yesterday prepping the truck and sanding the shit out of everything to be bedlinered
And now there's an abundance of moisture in the air just making love to the bare metal

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Old 06-30-2013, 04:51 PM   #30
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In case no one else mentioned it.

replace all fluids. antifreeze, oil, tranny, brakes, differential, grease bearings if applicable.

replace hoses, including heater hoses.

replace belts
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:05 PM   #31
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95 4x4 that needs serious maintenance. SUGGESTIONS?!?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hansel View Post
In case no one else mentioned it.

replace all fluids. antifreeze, oil, tranny, brakes, differential, grease bearings if applicable.

replace hoses, including heater hoses.

replace belts
Good call. I remember doing all if the vacuum lines. Found a kit that had them already cut to length, and they were red.

And, PCV valve.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:21 PM   #32
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Did anyone mention timing belt and water pump yet? Also, is your power steering pump whining at all?
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:42 PM   #33
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The shifter slop is more than likely coming from a worn bushing the shifter sits on very common older yota problem. Marlin crawler has the bushing in a better material. U can use a hammer to remove the tie rods. Just take nut off and sternly strike it on the spindle where the tie rod connects.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:37 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madjik_Man View Post
And now there's an abundance of moisture in the air just making love to the bare metal

Its in my garage lol
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:41 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by cottontop View Post
The shifter slop is more than likely coming from a worn bushing the shifter sits on very common older yota problem. Marlin crawler has the bushing in a better material. U can use a hammer to remove the tie rods. Just take nut off and sternly strike it on the spindle where the tie rod connects.
I just ordered the new bushings from marlin crawler and I had always thought the only way to remove tie rods was with a hammer. But I checked them out and they seem solid.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:43 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Lumpskie View Post
Did anyone mention timing belt and water pump yet? Also, is your power steering pump whining at all?
The power steering pump doesn't whine, already took care of the water pump, and damn the timing belt!! I thought it was not suppossed to be replaced on the 95-97 taco unless it breaks?
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:46 AM   #37
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I will post pics of the bed lined cab when I get off work and to a computer, I think it looks pretty good for what its worth. I ended up using the harbor freight brand since it was $50 for a gallon
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:55 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstock View Post
I just ordered the new bushings from marlin crawler and I had always thought the only way to remove tie rods was with a hammer. But I checked them out and they seem solid.
That picture I inserted on page one is what I always used. I just used it on my 2011 and was stoked to see it fit perfectly. I started out beating on the stud to get it out of the spindle, but that tool with an airgun on it makes very short work of it, especially if you've used anti-seize.

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The power steering pump doesn't whine, already took care of the water pump, and damn the timing belt!! I thought it was not suppossed to be replaced on the 95-97 taco unless it breaks?
No-way Jose. The chain slowly stretches out over time, and the guides wear out as well. Most of the time it's the guides that fail first, but while you're in there might as well do it all. When I was still driving and wrenching on my 95 LC Engineering was my go-to for parts. http://www.lceperformance.com/3RZ-St...-p/1015088.htm
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:15 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOTA LOVER View Post
That picture I inserted on page one is what I always used. I just used it on my 2011 and was stoked to see it fit perfectly. I started out beating on the stud to get it out of the spindle, but that tool with an airgun on it makes very short work of it, especially if you've used anti-seize.



No-way Jose. The chain slowly stretches out over time, and the guides wear out as well. Most of the time it's the guides that fail first, but while you're in there might as well do it all. When I was still driving and wrenching on my 95 LC Engineering was my go-to for parts. http://www.lceperformance.com/3RZ-St...-p/1015088.htm
Well its looks like this truck project is a little more in-depth than I thought. But I am not going to give up on it unless its totaled beyond repair. Do you know of any good diy write ups on replacing the timing chain?
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:35 AM   #40
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Well its looks like this truck project is a little more in-depth than I thought. But I am not going to give up on it unless its totaled beyond repair. Do you know of any good diy write ups on replacing the timing chain?
No, I haven't seen a single good thread on the timing chain. Use the Chiltons, it'll get you through.

This is the skinny, and why I recommend you get in there and do it now if your aim is to keep the truck at 100% and drive it forever:

The chain is designed to last for the "life of the engine", which is 250k according to the Toyota engineers. You're close to 200k. At a minimum you need to get in there and check the plastic guides/tensioners. More than likely they are closed to cooked. Chain failure is rare, but IMO that's because there aren't too many guys driving them well over 300k, which you have the opportunity to do. Myself, I'd do it at 200k (now) and call it good until the motor or truck disintegrates. Means a little bit of work, but you're also starting to get into the motor, which will reveal any problems or potential problems with the added benefit of replacing old seals/gaskets.
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