Originally Posted by ntilehman
Good luck with this. Prep will be your best friend for the process. The new single stage stuff is a lot different to spray now days. They changed something the formula when everything went to low voc material. Why did you buy clear coat if you are spraying a single stage? Do your best to get out all the blemishes in the current paint to make life easier after you spray the primer. The new paint will show so much more than what you see now. I suggest that if it can be taken off the ext of the truck to take it off; moldings, mirrors, doors(to get the jams better), lights, weather strips. Get several rolls of 2" tape as well. Have fun with it.
I second this question. Single stage paint does NOT require using a clear coat on top. As a matter of fact a single stage paint typically will not work well with trying to add a clear coat on top. If you truly want a paint job that will look good and LAST, I would suggest doing a basecoat-clearcoat paint job. They are MUCH easier to accomplish, and if you make a mistake they are WAY easier to correct without major work. Below is a link to my truck, which I did just like you are talking (Scroll through the pages past the engine building sections and you will find a lot of useable information on doing your own paint job.
One good thing was mentioned, and I will reemphasize this as well as add VERY important information.
95% of a good, or even a DECENT paint job is preparation. A shiny new paint job will show EVERY defect in the substrate (i.e. any deep scratches, dings, dimples) and while it may not seem like much now, you will kick yourself later when you look at the finished job. Look over the entire vehicle and repair the little dings.
Compressed air: Obviously you want NO moisture in the air lines. I used a $150 air dryer/filter and STILL added an additional line filter/dryer. Moisture will not show up in the paint at first, but a few hours after and the paint will literally look like CRAP. Also get a good quality spray gun. One that has two different sized tips (one for the primer/sealer, and the other for the basecoat and clearcoat.) I also recommend using a paint cup that is used exclusively for the clearcoat.
I cannot emphasize enough about CLEANLINESS. You can wash your hands 10 times, but a single touch from your bare hands can RUIN a paint job. Wear gloves that do NOT have any powder in them. The powder can get caught in the paint and show up later. A gallon container of quality wax and grease remover will be your friend.
DO NOT USE NEWSPAPER to mask. When it gets wet the ink will bleed and show up on the paint job when it is done. Use an automotive paint grade masking paper and good 3M tape for masking.
You will learn to HATE one word: Sandpaper. Before you can expect a primer or paint to stick, you have to open up the old paint. Use no coarser than 400 grit sandpaper and sand EVERYWHERE that you plan to paint. Expect at least 2 good days of sanding to get it all smooth. When you are done the entire truck should look dull. If there is ANY shine, then you need to sand more.
Your truck is black from the looks of it. A base of black underneath a bright blue will show through, causing the bright blue to be a flatter color. Grey primer/sealer will cover black and allow the new color to look like you want it to. So when you are ready to paint you will spray the entire truck with a primer/sealer and allow 10-15 minutes depending on the primer/sealer brand to "flash" and then start spraying the color. After 2-3 coats of color, allowing 5-10 minutes of flash time between coats, you will be ready to apply the clearcoat. (Assuming you are doing the aforementioned basecoat/clearcoat method) Allow the clear coat to "flash" dry between each coat. I applied I believe 6 coats of clear to give the paint "depth".
Can you tell I have done this before? Hahaha. Feel free to aask anything you would like to know, if you are interested. The color I used on my truck is a custom made blue. The base color is 2010 Dodge Viper Blue Pearl. I added two different metal flakes to the original color. I used .004 inch Cobalt Blue flake, and added .008 inch Patriot Blue flake.
If I am stepping on your toes here just tell me and I will delete all my pictures.
Before paint and body work:
Body repair and sanding completed:
3rd and final base coat:
After clearcoat finished and masking removed.
I did run into some errors, and made a few mistakes that I have worked on clearing up since. The good thing is that since I did a basecoat/clearcoat, I can fix all of them without having to repaint. I hope my information helps.