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Project Paint Taco Blue!

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Old 08-07-2013, 09:27 PM   #1
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Project Paint Taco Blue!

Well i have finally done enough research to feel confident in painting my first vehicle.
I have always liked the speedway blue on the newer Tacoma but couldn't imagine paying some one a few thousand dollars to paint mine.
So i Ordered up Some Single Stage Urethane from Eastwood, as well as Epoxy Primer and a Glossy Clear coat.
I will be using a HVLP gun from Eastwood.

The Truck is Currently Black but has scratches, some dings, one repair spot that paint doesnt match very well and the Tailgate is in black primer. If it didnt have all these blemishes i wouldn't ever dare to try this.

Im going to Take pictures of the process. Im painting the door jams but not the entire box as i have a box liner.
The Color i picked is Eastwood Coastal Hiway Blue.

I will attach pictures of the truck before and the Color.


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Old 08-08-2013, 04:39 AM   #2
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Good luck. 95% of a successful paint job is preparation. I've found over the years on my own projects that I will do the prep work to the body, dis and reassembly and anything else that I can do to reduce the cost, but I leave the mixing and the spraying to the pros. So many factors go into a successful base coat and especially the clear not to mention the cost of paint and materials. I like that color blue.
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:44 AM   #4
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WRITE UP!! i would love to see how you go about doing this and alot of pictures along the way too!
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:52 AM   #5
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Good luck with this. Prep will be your best friend for the process. The new single stage stuff is a lot different to spray now days. They changed something the formula when everything went to low voc material. Why did you buy clear coat if you are spraying a single stage? Do your best to get out all the blemishes in the current paint to make life easier after you spray the primer. The new paint will show so much more than what you see now. I suggest that if it can be taken off the ext of the truck to take it off; moldings, mirrors, doors(to get the jams better), lights, weather strips. Get several rolls of 2" tape as well. Have fun with it.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntilehman View Post
Good luck with this. Prep will be your best friend for the process. The new single stage stuff is a lot different to spray now days. They changed something the formula when everything went to low voc material. Why did you buy clear coat if you are spraying a single stage? Do your best to get out all the blemishes in the current paint to make life easier after you spray the primer. The new paint will show so much more than what you see now. I suggest that if it can be taken off the ext of the truck to take it off; moldings, mirrors, doors(to get the jams better), lights, weather strips. Get several rolls of 2" tape as well. Have fun with it.
Yup Lots of prep gonna be going into the truck. I Figure i have 5-7 days to Have it completed. I'm gonna be removing a buncha stuff.
I Bought the Clear Coat because Eastwood recommends it for Durability.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfgang123 View Post
WRITE UP!! i would love to see how you go about doing this and alot of pictures along the way too!
I will take Pictures along the way, I'm Fairly confident in this turning out.
Prep is key!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tacomataco2 View Post
I've always thought speedway blue was an awesome color, I'm excited to see the outcome. Do a good job!
Yea its a catchy color!

Quote:
Originally Posted by randytrish View Post
Good luck. 95% of a successful paint job is preparation. I've found over the years on my own projects that I will do the prep work to the body, dis and reassembly and anything else that I can do to reduce the cost, but I leave the mixing and the spraying to the pros. So many factors go into a successful base coat and especially the clear not to mention the cost of paint and materials. I like that color blue.
Im determinded for it to turn out good. I can do pretty much anything mechanical so i figured i wanted to Learn how to paint. I dont want to pay anyone haha. Hopefully these Urethanes are as Durable as everyone is saying they are.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:02 PM   #7
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subbd! Always loved the oldschool toyota blue

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Old 08-08-2013, 09:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MapleMoose View Post
subbd! Always loved the oldschool toyota blue

X2 really want to see how this turns out!
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:40 PM   #9
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Try and find a place with low humidity as well to spray urethane. It orange peels like crazy otherwise.
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:31 PM   #10
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Good thing about this is that your paint as it is right now is already a bit rough as you say, so at least if you fuck up then you can say well it's better than before... lol. Sounds like you've done your research though. Good luck.
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MapleMoose View Post
subbd! Always loved the oldschool toyota blue
Yup i never see ANY around here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ntilehman View Post
Try and find a place with low humidity as well to spray urethane. It orange peels like crazy otherwise.
Thanks for the tip. I will be doing it in my garage. So i will have to pick a good day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TotesMagotes View Post
Good thing about this is that your paint as it is right now is already a bit rough as you say, so at least if you fuck up then you can say well it's better than before... lol. Sounds like you've done your research though. Good luck.
Hey you never know i might end up saying that. I hope i dont slap the truck with the compressor hose haha!
Your Truck looks exactly like mine.. well mine has gold wheels now.
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntilehman View Post
Good luck with this. Prep will be your best friend for the process. The new single stage stuff is a lot different to spray now days. They changed something the formula when everything went to low voc material. Why did you buy clear coat if you are spraying a single stage? Do your best to get out all the blemishes in the current paint to make life easier after you spray the primer. The new paint will show so much more than what you see now. I suggest that if it can be taken off the ext of the truck to take it off; moldings, mirrors, doors(to get the jams better), lights, weather strips. Get several rolls of 2" tape as well. Have fun with it.
I second this question. Single stage paint does NOT require using a clear coat on top. As a matter of fact a single stage paint typically will not work well with trying to add a clear coat on top. If you truly want a paint job that will look good and LAST, I would suggest doing a basecoat-clearcoat paint job. They are MUCH easier to accomplish, and if you make a mistake they are WAY easier to correct without major work. Below is a link to my truck, which I did just like you are talking (Scroll through the pages past the engine building sections and you will find a lot of useable information on doing your own paint job.

One good thing was mentioned, and I will reemphasize this as well as add VERY important information.

95% of a good, or even a DECENT paint job is preparation. A shiny new paint job will show EVERY defect in the substrate (i.e. any deep scratches, dings, dimples) and while it may not seem like much now, you will kick yourself later when you look at the finished job. Look over the entire vehicle and repair the little dings.

Compressed air: Obviously you want NO moisture in the air lines. I used a $150 air dryer/filter and STILL added an additional line filter/dryer. Moisture will not show up in the paint at first, but a few hours after and the paint will literally look like CRAP. Also get a good quality spray gun. One that has two different sized tips (one for the primer/sealer, and the other for the basecoat and clearcoat.) I also recommend using a paint cup that is used exclusively for the clearcoat.

I cannot emphasize enough about CLEANLINESS. You can wash your hands 10 times, but a single touch from your bare hands can RUIN a paint job. Wear gloves that do NOT have any powder in them. The powder can get caught in the paint and show up later. A gallon container of quality wax and grease remover will be your friend.

DO NOT USE NEWSPAPER to mask. When it gets wet the ink will bleed and show up on the paint job when it is done. Use an automotive paint grade masking paper and good 3M tape for masking.

You will learn to HATE one word: Sandpaper. Before you can expect a primer or paint to stick, you have to open up the old paint. Use no coarser than 400 grit sandpaper and sand EVERYWHERE that you plan to paint. Expect at least 2 good days of sanding to get it all smooth. When you are done the entire truck should look dull. If there is ANY shine, then you need to sand more.

Your truck is black from the looks of it. A base of black underneath a bright blue will show through, causing the bright blue to be a flatter color. Grey primer/sealer will cover black and allow the new color to look like you want it to. So when you are ready to paint you will spray the entire truck with a primer/sealer and allow 10-15 minutes depending on the primer/sealer brand to "flash" and then start spraying the color. After 2-3 coats of color, allowing 5-10 minutes of flash time between coats, you will be ready to apply the clearcoat. (Assuming you are doing the aforementioned basecoat/clearcoat method) Allow the clear coat to "flash" dry between each coat. I applied I believe 6 coats of clear to give the paint "depth".

Can you tell I have done this before? Hahaha. Feel free to aask anything you would like to know, if you are interested. The color I used on my truck is a custom made blue. The base color is 2010 Dodge Viper Blue Pearl. I added two different metal flakes to the original color. I used .004 inch Cobalt Blue flake, and added .008 inch Patriot Blue flake.

If I am stepping on your toes here just tell me and I will delete all my pictures.

Before paint and body work:



Body repair and sanding completed:



primer stage:



3rd and final base coat:



After clearcoat finished and masking removed.





I did run into some errors, and made a few mistakes that I have worked on clearing up since. The good thing is that since I did a basecoat/clearcoat, I can fix all of them without having to repaint. I hope my information helps.
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
I second this question. Single stage paint does NOT require using a clear coat on top. As a matter of fact a single stage paint typically will not work well with trying to add a clear coat on top. If you truly want a paint job that will look good and LAST, I would suggest doing a basecoat-clearcoat paint job. They are MUCH easier to accomplish, and if you make a mistake they are WAY easier to correct without major work. Below is a link to my truck, which I did just like you are talking (Scroll through the pages past the engine building sections and you will find a lot of useable information on doing your own paint job.

One good thing was mentioned, and I will reemphasize this as well as add VERY important information.

95% of a good, or even a DECENT paint job is preparation. A shiny new paint job will show EVERY defect in the substrate (i.e. any deep scratches, dings, dimples) and while it may not seem like much now, you will kick yourself later when you look at the finished job. Look over the entire vehicle and repair the little dings.

Compressed air: Obviously you want NO moisture in the air lines. I used a $150 air dryer/filter and STILL added an additional line filter/dryer. Moisture will not show up in the paint at first, but a few hours after and the paint will literally look like CRAP. Also get a good quality spray gun. One that has two different sized tips (one for the primer/sealer, and the other for the basecoat and clearcoat.) I also recommend using a paint cup that is used exclusively for the clearcoat.

I cannot emphasize enough about CLEANLINESS. You can wash your hands 10 times, but a single touch from your bare hands can RUIN a paint job. Wear gloves that do NOT have any powder in them. The powder can get caught in the paint and show up later. A gallon container of quality wax and grease remover will be your friend.

DO NOT USE NEWSPAPER to mask. When it gets wet the ink will bleed and show up on the paint job when it is done. Use an automotive paint grade masking paper and good 3M tape for masking.

You will learn to HATE one word: Sandpaper. Before you can expect a primer or paint to stick, you have to open up the old paint. Use no coarser than 400 grit sandpaper and sand EVERYWHERE that you plan to paint. Expect at least 2 good days of sanding to get it all smooth. When you are done the entire truck should look dull. If there is ANY shine, then you need to sand more.

Your truck is black from the looks of it. A base of black underneath a bright blue will show through, causing the bright blue to be a flatter color. Grey primer/sealer will cover black and allow the new color to look like you want it to. So when you are ready to paint you will spray the entire truck with a primer/sealer and allow 10-15 minutes depending on the primer/sealer brand to "flash" and then start spraying the color. After 2-3 coats of color, allowing 5-10 minutes of flash time between coats, you will be ready to apply the clearcoat. (Assuming you are doing the aforementioned basecoat/clearcoat method) Allow the clear coat to "flash" dry between each coat. I applied I believe 6 coats of clear to give the paint "depth".

Can you tell I have done this before? Hahaha. Feel free to aask anything you would like to know, if you are interested. The color I used on my truck is a custom made blue. The base color is 2010 Dodge Viper Blue Pearl. I added two different metal flakes to the original color. I used .004 inch Cobalt Blue flake, and added .008 inch Patriot Blue flake.

If I am stepping on your toes here just tell me and I will delete all my pictures.

I did run into some errors, and made a few mistakes that I have worked on clearing up since. The good thing is that since I did a basecoat/clearcoat, I can fix all of them without having to repaint. I hope my information helps.
That looks awesome. Just about the same color!
Thanks for all the info! I'll take all i can get.
Dont worry about the pics there inspiring haha
Here is what i got from the eastwood website:
"This urethane paint may be applied as a stand-along single-stage system, or in combination with Eastwood Urethane Clearcoat Plus Activator as a basecoat/clearcoat system. Additionally, Urethane Clear may be integrated into Urethane color. When combining the two systems, be sure to activate each side (the paint and the clear) separately, with their own activators at the correct mix ratios, before blending.
When used as a single-stage urethane paint, this coating may be wet-sanded and polished for increased depth and gloss like any other urethane topcoat. "
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:07 PM   #15
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just paint it with rustoleum roll on lol. but seriously go 9 post down on the link and read its awesome.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:07 PM   #16
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I got all of my supplies, except the paint itself, from http://www.tcpglobal.com (The paint I got from my then-girlfriend who had a friend at Dupont and got me the paint for free. If you want to get the exact same base color as I got, you can find it here: Viper blue pearl and the clear that I used was Kustom Clear . Personally I have never heard of Eastwood paint, so I have no idea how good it is. I would suggest for your first paint job to go with something simple and basic. Mixing a single stage with a clearcoat is not an easy task. The simpler it is the better. Also as I mentioned before, if you do a single stage with clear on top and you make a mistake or something happens, you are going to be doing a TON of work trying to fix it. With a BC/CC system you can spray the base, and then do a full inspection, and if there are any runs or bad spots you can fix it VERY easily. Then you can move on to the clear coat. As an example it was an entire 12 hours between when I applied the base before I applied the clear. This allows a lot more time to fix mistakes.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:50 PM   #17
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Awesome thread, sub'd.
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:21 PM   #18
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Ok so anxiously waiting the paints arrival!
Washed the truck up today kind of was thinking about how im going to do this.
Took a few pictures of the flaws:
Here is the Primered tail gate, which has a dent in it, same with above the tail light

One of Very few rust spots

Some more chipping

The grill that needs to be stripped. The PO painted it with some black undercoat or something. Can i use regular paint stripper on it?
Plan is to paint it the same color as the truck

AND THE LAST BEFORE PICTURES OF THE TRUCK!

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Old 08-10-2013, 02:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by specialized7 View Post
Ok so anxiously waiting the paints arrival!
Washed the truck up today kind of was thinking about how im going to do this.
Took a few pictures of the flaws:
Here is the Primered tail gate, which has a dent in it, same with above the tail light

One of Very few rust spots

Some more chipping

The grill that needs to be stripped. The PO painted it with some black undercoat or something. Can i use regular paint stripper on it?
Plan is to paint it the same color as the truck

AND THE LAST BEFORE PICTURES OF THE TRUCK!

ok, the rust spot needs to be taken care of. No if/ands/buts. That rust will come through the new paint job FAST. Sand it with 80 grit until ALL of the rust is gone, then use a primer/filler. If the rust penetrates the metal then sand it all down and use fiberglass repair to fix the problem. It looks like there is some rust on the front edge of the fender as well. Get that sanded down good. The grille, I will be honest with you, would probably be cheaper to buy a replacement. The time involved alone in trying to smooth that grill, or strip it, would far exceed the cost of a replacement.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:06 AM   #20
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Yup rust will be removed.
The grill will need to be stripped as there is none of these in the junk yard here and i cant wait for shipping. i was going to leave the area where people usually do the satoshi mod black. . i will be respraying both bumpers and the satoshi part of the grill in black bedliner
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