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Addicted Offroad's Project "Cracka'"

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Old 10-09-2013, 11:00 AM   #21
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:07 AM   #22
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Large is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shedLarge is one of the sharper tools in the shed
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Sick, I'm interested.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:38 AM   #23
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So, Carriage Shoppe rocks! They pulled the firewall back into place. It also squared up the door perfectly and it will all be workable to get this truck sealed road worthy again.

Talked to the windshield guy today and it will have a new one in by the end of the day as well.








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Old 10-14-2013, 10:01 AM   #24
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Looks like you'll be up to your neck in work always having to be done.
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:49 AM   #26
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i would hate to mess with all those electricals lol
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Old 10-14-2013, 02:50 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Pyro View Post
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i would hate to mess with all those electricals lol
Its really not that bad. Everything is pretty much plug and play.
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Old 10-14-2013, 02:50 PM   #28
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Found a new replacement hood on craigslist today for $75 in Denver, and while I was down there I grabbed two new fenders, a new radiator core support, and two front grill covers from Certifit for $145. Certifit fenders are only $33.95/ea.

I just need to source an A/C condenser, lines, and a passenger inner fender. I have a radiator, and plan to run a Spal electric fan instead of the heavy fan/clutch setup.
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:01 PM   #29
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sub'd!
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:19 PM   #30
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Awesome. Sub'd.
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:02 PM   #31
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Scotty you gonna use the TG Spring kit or the 3-link kit?
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:05 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHwreckage View Post
Scotty you gonna use the TG Spring kit or the 3-link kit?
Not sure yet. I will not use their 3-link kit though as I would design my own for better geometry built into it.
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:11 AM   #33
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Just picked it up.

Slapped a DS fender on it to see fitment, and its spot on.





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Old 10-17-2013, 05:22 PM   #34
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I've been adding some replacement parts here and there over the last couple days. I found a good cowl, straight wiper linkage, new hood hinges, and scored a complete inner fender that I cut out for $20. That means that it will all look factory when I put it back together.

I also decided to just TIG weld the head back together. That will keep me from having to screw with pulling the head and stuff, and since its only there to keep oil in, I don't see an issue with it. In fact, it will likely be stronger that anything else I can do to it anyway.

I'm really trying to decide if I want to link it or leaf it at this point too. If I link it I'll run some ORIs, but I really think that doing the same thing I did with the Frenchy build will be much more simple and way cheaper to maintain.

That being said, I should be able to have this all put back together and actually drivable by the end of next week.
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:07 PM   #35
Probably should'nt have done that.
4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed4banger4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AddictedOffroad View Post
I've been adding some replacement parts here and there over the last couple days. I found a good cowl, straight wiper linkage, new hood hinges, and scored a complete inner fender that I cut out for $20. That means that it will all look factory when I put it back together.

I also decided to just TIG weld the head back together. That will keep me from having to screw with pulling the head and stuff, and since its only there to keep oil in, I don't see an issue with it. In fact, it will likely be stronger that anything else I can do to it anyway.

I'm really trying to decide if I want to link it or leaf it at this point too. If I link it I'll run some ORIs, but I really think that doing the same thing I did with the Frenchy build will be much more simple and way cheaper to maintain.

That being said, I should be able to have this all put back together and actually drivable by the end of next week.
that frenchy build looked amazing! but i would go links if you have the knowledge and funds. (obviously you have the knowledge)
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:22 PM   #36
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Dude, you're like, my hero! Lol. Sub'd.
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:51 AM   #37
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i think you should try out the TG 3-link kit but scratch the Link lengths they come with and make your own lengths. but realistically if the leaf is easier to put on and easier to upkeep go that route! whats the end goal for this truck, personal or are you going to flip it?
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:08 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHwreckage View Post
i think you should try out the TG 3-link kit but scratch the Link lengths they come with and make your own lengths. but realistically if the leaf is easier to put on and easier to upkeep go that route! whats the end goal for this truck, personal or are you going to flip it?
It has nothing to do with the link lengths. It has to do with the geometry in the system. TG doesn't triangulate the lowers enough and therefore you will get some oversteer in the system. Which makes it darty on the hwy.

If I link it, I will build it like I built my old 2000 4runner.
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #39
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Some fitment of panels. I tacked the PS new inner core support into place and test fitted some of the panels. Measurements are still a little off, but I should be able to dial it in a little better once I can get some more leverage on the PS panel.





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Old 10-21-2013, 12:25 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AddictedOffroad View Post
It has nothing to do with the link lengths. It has to do with the geometry in the system. TG doesn't triangulate the lowers enough and therefore you will get some oversteer in the system. Which makes it darty on the hwy.

If I link it, I will build it like I built my old 2000 4runner.
are the links ends already welded on the the the axle housing with Kit C? I was under the impression you had to work out your own angles with the supplied brackets!
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