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Carrier Bearing that lasts?

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Old 10-11-2013, 08:11 PM   #1
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Carrier Bearing that lasts?

Hey guys, i have a problem.

I replaced my OEM bearing about 20K ago, with a Timken from rock auto.

The timken, has now taken a crap.

I dont want this to be a recurring theme, because replacing bearings sucks.


Anyone know of a longer lasting bearing? Perhaps one with a Polyurethane sleeve, instead of the garbage rubber they put on them now?

I really dont want to have to replace that bearing over and over. It gets old.
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:40 AM   #2
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I replaced my OEM at 175,000. And got an OEM one again and hope it last about the same. Im at 179. So I haven't hit your 20k mark.
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:51 AM   #3
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Oem is the way to go the aftermarket ones just don't hack it. You will pay more for the part but it will last longer.

Case of get what you pay for.
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 604YOTA View Post
Oem is the way to go the aftermarket ones just don't hack it.
But eventually, the soft rubber they use will shit the bed again, and I'll be in the exact same position...

I'm looking for something more solid. Nothing would piss me off more, than buying a obscenely overpriced OEM, only to have it crap out in 30k miles...
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:02 AM   #6
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The boot on your Timken failed?
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:07 PM   #8
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#2722t25/=ox5yjh check this out some people over on ttora have been using them
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:37 PM   #9
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Some say it works others say they get vibrations after 80 mph
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misterdmac View Post
The boot on your Timken failed?
Yep, miserably.

It's pretty bloated on the bottom side, and it rotates like a egg on my driveshaft.

So yeah, the Timken CB that everyone recommends from Rock Auto, dies quickly.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:16 PM   #11
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We had a thread over on TTORA a few years back.

1.) OEM Replaced mine at 100k
2.) Modify to a solid carrier bearing.

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175913

Had a part number for the 1st gens but can't find it at the moment.

Solid CB may or may not lead to more vibrations though.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafetyDang View Post
We had a thread over on TTORA a few years back.

1.) OEM Replaced mine at 100k
2.) Modify to a solid carrier bearing.

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175913

Had a part number for the 1st gens but can't find it at the moment.

Solid CB may or may not lead to more vibrations though.
Yeah, i saw this vid though, and im a bit hesitant to pull the trigger on a wookie strength bearing.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af4XAywrYQY
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:29 PM   #13
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^^ Loud and stiff, the people who like those have LT, solid motor/tranny mounted trucks, offroad trucks.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:51 PM   #14
get your facts straight
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That's why I only list the two choices. There is no middle.. just oem and lower your center carrier bearing according to your lift.
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:54 AM   #15
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I have been thinking of something similar to the wookie strength one( which I hadnt seen prior to tonight), but just using sealed ball bearing in the stock rubber mount, and then filling the boot with a silicone to stiffen it a little. I may end up going wookie status tho..
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:58 AM   #16
get your facts straight
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oem is the best bet.
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:57 AM   #17
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Most OEM carriers are lasting over 100k before needing replacement, if it's not then there is a bigger problem that needs to be addressed that is making them fail prematurely. Usually an unaligned 3rd from lift. That be my #1 guess.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:11 AM   #18
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Just put on a Dorman from Rock Auto and got about 250 - 300 miles out of it and it's squeeling like a stuck pig. Not happy
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:27 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by se7enine View Post
Most OEM carriers are lasting over 100k before needing replacement, if it's not then there is a bigger problem that needs to be addressed that is making them fail prematurely. Usually an unaligned 3rd from lift. That be my #1 guess.
or the drive shaft is out of balance.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:48 AM   #20
get your facts straight
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There are just some parts that you have to go OEM.
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