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Steering wheel feels too "free" at highway speed

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Old 10-16-2013, 09:41 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by PcBuilder14 View Post
These are my most recent alignment specs. As close as they could get with the frozen tie-rod. Opinions?
Get the inner tie rod replaced then, it's only $35 at Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...266&cc=1429084). Even if the toe is set correctly, the fact the ball-and-socket joint in the tie rod can't move smoothly can give a stick-slip behavior and cause shimmy.

Toe out will cause some wondering issues. 0.8 deg toe out contributes to the problem, but simply correcting toe likely won't cure your issue.
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:45 AM   #42
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O01xIDnuk8 Just a thought.

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161689
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:52 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by TACO TX View Post
Because when you turn the wheel back and forth you can feel and hear the lash in the rack. Tie rods and all steering components are good. The loose steering has gotten worse over the last year. Also a small leak on the left side, noticed it when i pulled the bellow's off to check tie rods.
ah ok, I had a similar feeling but it ended up being the slip joint in the column. After tack welding it all is good.

I believe you can replace just the seal in the rack if tack welding that joint fixes yours.
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:35 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffirg View Post
Same problem here. Was terrible before I lifted it. After lifting I changed rack bushings and tie rod ends while getting an alignment. Felt great for about a week and it's just as bad as it was before. Driving with any sort of wind is almost scary. Eve Driving without wind makes me look drunk I bet
I actually got pulled over once on the interstate because someone called me in thinking I was drunk. I attribute it to needing to tack the slip joint eventually (well mostly messing with my ipod or something, but that's beside the point). I've been putting it off, but now one of my orange lights behind the gauge cluster is out too so I need to tear the dash apart to get to both.

Ryan, if you decide to do the slip joint thing lemme know. We can do them both at once (plus I don't have a welder ) I'll even be the guinea pig to go first so we can fuck mine up and get it right with yours haha
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by isu2014 View Post
It sounds like I can't get 3* with stock ball joints.

Guess I'll have to trade a full set of skid plates for some UCAs once I get my transfer skid all figured out.
Get LR UCA's. You get additional Caster/Camber adjustments which allows you to keep your weels center (or push fwd/back) when adjusting caster.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:48 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MowTaco View Post
Ryan, if you decide to do the slip joint thing lemme know. We can do them both at once (plus I don't have a welder ) I'll even be the guinea pig to go first so we can fuck mine up and get it right with yours haha
I will bring my little 120v welder from home and we can knock it out sometime. I hope the reward vs time is worth it.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:18 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Digiratus View Post
Nice video! I need to do this.
Take a look at the TTORA thread. You can remove the whole assemly in like 6 bolts. Don't need to remove all of the trim, ducting etc.. Makes it an even easier job.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:25 AM   #49
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definitely tack weld the slip joint in the steering column. that made more of a difference on my two tacomas then the poly rack bushings. takes about 2 hours the first time you do it, but it's a very straightforward job.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:07 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MowTaco View Post
I actually got pulled over once on the interstate because someone called me in thinking I was drunk.
I am definitely using that as my defense!! "But, but officer, my caster is out of spec and I had to choose whether to put food on my family's table or to get some Total Chaos UCAs" lol
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:48 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digiratus View Post
I was just reading that thread. Post #42 in the ttroa thread does simplify the column removal. Thanks.
Yep, 3 bolts, 2 springs, a few plugs and the clam shell trim just in front of the wheel. No need to even remove the lower trim panel at all.
Needle nose vise grip pliers come in handy for letting the tilt springs know who is boss. Shimming up the pivot ball is also worthwhile.

For non tilt wheels it is a little more involved but not by much. I have the dope on that if anyone wants it.
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Old 10-19-2013, 03:20 AM   #53
get your facts straight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digiratus View Post
I was just reading that thread. Post #42 in the ttroa thread does simplify the column removal. Thanks.
Yea I made the video before someone confirmed that there was an easier way.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:55 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIPICOTACO View Post
I am definitely using that as my defense!! "But, but officer, my caster is out of spec and I had to choose whether to put food on my family's table or to get some Total Chaos UCAs" lol
I've tried the "I just got bigger tires and my speedo is probably off and I forgot about it until now" as an excuse for speeding like 3 times, still don't get let off.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:59 AM   #55
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I put my sway bar back on and now the shake is a lot better. Live-able for sure.
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:46 PM   #56
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Does anyone have a link to the TTORA thread, I did a search but got 10 pages... I need to weld my steering column too but would like the easier way to remove it.
Thanks.
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