Rusted through rear axle housing

Hi all,

I have a 2003 Tacoma where the rear axle housing has rusted through enough that it's seeping oil after it's driven. It's not around the seal, but the pumpkin instead.

I've taken it to a couple of shops without much luck finding a new part for it. The dealership actually told me they could find a used part and swap the rear assembly for $3,200, but that's way more than I can pay.

Sooo.. on to the parts search. I've been looking around for an old rear axle assembly that will fit. I'm told the thing to look for is the gear ratio, which I'm pretty sure is 4.30. I have a 2003 I4 2.7L 3RZ-FE Engine MT w/ABS and 4.30 is what I found on the internet for that.

Apparently that assembly is next to impossible to find. 1 garage couldn't find it. A specialty salvage yard couldn't find it. The dealer said they found one.. but again.. too expensive for my blood.

My question is, if I can find an assembly with the WRONG ratio, can I just swap my parts in? I have ABS, so is that just a welded on bracket for that to hold the sensor?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've been looking for parts for a while now and haven't had it on the road in over 2 months!

Thanks!

 

I would buy a 4.10 axle since they are likely the most common, then swap in your 3rd member.

For parts use car-part.com and you can search salvage yards all around the country. You should be able to find an axle with abs and a locker if you have one. If you don't have a locker, don't buy a locker axle.

 

isu2014, thanks for the reply!

Are the axles the same on those, or could that be swapped with my current axle? I don't have a locking diff.

 

I just did this on my 2002 for the same reason.




I found a 2003 rear assembly and re built that one and then swapped them out.




Different years will work but there are differences. Yours prob has anti lock brakes. The e-brake cables are run a bit differently so might need compatible cable (rear half) for that year assembly.



You will want to look for a complete assembly that is in decent shape because all the other parts on your current one are likely rusted to shit and will be trashed with disassembly. So that includes brake lines, proportioning valve parts, rear brake assembly plates and all those tid bits.

To determine your diff ratio, look at the plate on driver side door frame. Read the letter/numbers in the lower right corner as high-lighted below. Then using that info, go into the list below to see what gear ratio is. (this assumes that you have the stock/original differential)



The following info came from Brian McCamish's page at: http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html


Hope this is helpful, feel free to PM me with questions.

Look for rear assemblys here: http://www.car-part.com/

 

If you can't find one here on site, you might try TTORA they have a big market place for 1st gen parts

 

Thanks jdkilroy,

Did you swap in an assembly with the same ratio, or a different ratio that you changed out the 3rd member on?

I don't mind swapping out the needed parts, but what needs to be compatible? Just the ABS mounts?

If I get a 4.10 (mine is 4.30), can I just swap in the 3rd member without an axle swap?

I'm sure that everything else is stupidly rusted on the thing.

 

I found a 2003 rear assembly in Rutland, VT that was the same ratio as mine. I happen to have the more common 4.10 so that probably made it easier.

Swapping the pumkin from your original assembly to the new one is no big deal and the axles should be compatible. I'm not positive but I don't think that there are any differences in spline counts between those first gen years.

A quick search on carparts.com showed a 4.10 in Walpole, MA for 800.00. It has 200K miles on it. Search for a 4.30 brought up nothing in New England.

ABS doesn't need to be compatible if you get an entire assembly. If you get one that doesn't have ABS then you loose it in the rear end is all.

I will say this to take the pressure off: the fill plug will come out so you can keep the diff topped off as needed. I drove around for many months with mine weeping that way while i gathered all the parts I needed and overhauled the "new" rear assembly. Just don't go off road and keep an eye on it.

The other option that I never really considered is that you could remove that rear portion of the diff housing and weld a replacement on it. There are a few different companies that make heavy duty diff covers that you could weld on in place of the original. Doesn't address all the other cancerous stuff back there but it's one possible solution.

 

if its only the housing that is leaking thats all you need. can you post a pic of where it is leaking?

it may be difficult to find one...but not impossible. be glad you aren't looking for an 8" housing.

like i said, if its leaking out of the axle housing you can just use your third and axles/hubs and just put new seals in the axle. look online at sites like lkq barger (pretty sure thats the name) and car part.com and do a nationwide search, for ones within say 300 miles. a housing should be about 250-300. then you just have to go get it and swap in your guts. Just make sure its the 8.4" axle, with abs. all axles later than 02 i believe are "abs" even if the truck did not come with it.


as said check ttora and any local sites as well.

 

Doing a quick search through the parts list, it looks like the axle housing is the same as a few other models (42110-35561), so I think I'm going to pursue a different ratio and swap in my gears. Looks like I'd just need that and a new gasket?

Given the rust level I seriously doubt I could get the fill plug off without causing even more damage. The thing looks like it's been sitting in a swamp for the last 10 years. Thanks Toyota...

 

Things fucked but you pull the 3rd, cut off that bit and weld on a big ass pipe cap like some guys.

 

Then again I've seen axles for like 300$

 

It's kind of a dirtbag move, but I'd ask them where they found the part. If they tell you, give the place a call and buy it yourself and have a local guy install it or do it yourself.



I would have no shame doing that to a dealer who wants over 3 grand to to supply and install a used part without a warrany. YMMV.

 

That's what I assumed so I never touched mine until after I swapped it out. When I tried it, it loosened without a hitch...

I would do two things: one: register your truck on toyota.com the owners section.
two: call Toyota and explain the situation to them. When I did that they gave me $500.00 toward any parts I needed to buy for the repair. There was no stipulation that they had to be bought from Toyota.

 

What a major cluster you know what...BTW, how is the frame? Noticed you are in Maine is why I asked...

 

you folks in the no-salt states don't realize how good you got it!

 

The frame is is great shape actually.. I had a FREE frame replacement for only $2,000 at the same dealership a few years ago. Prior to that it was pretty nasty. That and the gas tank skid plate was nothing but a swiss cheese, rust flaked mess.

The $2k was actually for all the other bits they talked me into replacing while it was apart.

Great tip on registering the truck for a little help in the cash department. I'll look into it. Frankly I think it's ridiculous how bad these trucks rusted out to the point where they're not drivable. The body is great still and I've only got a little over 100k on the engine.

 

Thing is, its worth putting in the time and some cash into your truck. (this is my personal opinion obviously). It has a ton of life left in it, its a very simple vehicle as far as repairs and maintenance and parts are readily available.

I would go for a solid condition complete rear assembly. Swap your third member in as needed and keep any other parts from your assembly that could be spare parts down the road.

 

I had a friend in the same boat as you. This might be an option for you. http://www.barnes4wd.com/Toyota-Heavy-Duty-Differential-Cover_p_228.html

 

I'm looking for a rear axle too, found one from a 2002 Prerunner 2 wd. (RZN196L) Can I use it for my 2001 Tacoma (RZN171L)? Ratios are the same 4:56. both are CRPDKAB. Guy said mounting was a little different. Some brackets.

Axle is leaking and bought it from a guy who drove too long with it and now it's whining. So want to replace the whole axle.


Any help appreciated.

 

The biggest issue is the E-brake mounting. I'm not sure what year it changed (01-02). Older models the E-brake was above the leaf spring and newer were below them. And the E-brake cable will differ in p/n's between types.

ABS may be different also, along with e-locker & non e-locker.