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Oil Type with no service records

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by LITacoQ, Jan 7, 2014.

  1. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:24 PM
    #1
    LITacoQ

    LITacoQ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey all. I know this can be a controversial subject, but I am a new Taco owner and could use some advice. My 03' 2.7 has 59k miles on her. I just got it on the road and will be doing an oil change. What kind would you use especially since I don't know what the previous owner used. It has a Fram oil filter and has a oil change sticker on the window that shows oil change at 57k miles. High mileage? Synthetic blend? Full synthetic? Thanks in advance
     
  2. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:27 PM
    #2
    Alderleet

    Alderleet Ace of Spades

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    Full synthetic. Whatever flavor you prefer. Amsoil, Mobil, Pennz Plat, ect

    Use a Toyota filter (get them at the dealer, w/ the drain plug gasket)


    Dont try to mate it to the existing oil. More than likely the oil was crappy conventional from one of those quickie oil change place, hence the awful fram filter.


    Just buy your synth oil at wally world, 25 bucks a 5qt jug, and run a oem filter. You'll start cleaning crap out of it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014
  3. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:27 PM
    #3
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    where's the "oil change sticker" from? usually if you can go back to the place that the sticker is from they can look up the vehicle and tell you what went in it.. that'd be my starting point
     
  4. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:34 PM
    #4
    LITacoQ

    LITacoQ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I bought it out of state. Looks like a local garage sticker, but maybe if I call them they can give me some info
     
  5. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:38 PM
    #5
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    worth a shot... if not, I agree with the previous poster sorta... I'd go with a synthetic oil. yes it is more expensive but if the previous owner has been putting that in it and you switch back that COULD cause you some real problems... also, the expense is really the only downside and that's relaxed SOME by the extended times between oil changes
     
  6. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:47 PM
    #6
    skiwaves8

    skiwaves8 Well-Known Member

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    Drain what's in there and put in whatever you want.It's not going to matter what was in there before.I prefer synthetic oil and run 5000 miles between changes.
     
  7. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:50 PM
    #7
    LITacoQ

    LITacoQ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply and info guys. Will probably go Full synthetic 5w30. I already ordered a case of 10 OEM filters, so as soon as it gets above 10 degrees, I will tackle my first oil change on the Taco. I hear that oil filter is a bitch to get at :eek:
     
  8. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:51 PM
    #8
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    sorry... while this has been debated it has also been tested many times and switching DIRECTLY from a synthetic oil BACK to a standard is NOT good for the engine... the seals throughout get used to the synthetic oil and switching back COULD cause some serious blow outs. This is why, if you talk to any reputable mechanic, they'll tell you that if you really want to switch back for whatever reason it should be done in stages..
     
  9. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:53 PM
    #9
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    take off any skids you have and it shouldn't be that bad if I remember correctly... I used to do 2-3 of your truck a week at a shop I worked at.. with skids on it's a PITA but ya.. without em I don't remember it being bad
     
  10. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:57 PM
    #10
    LITacoQ

    LITacoQ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cool. Thanks again for the help
     
  11. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:58 PM
    #11
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    ya no prob!
     
  12. Jan 7, 2014 at 9:58 PM
    #12
    KenLyns

    KenLyns 8.75" Third Member

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    Don't bother. Most likely it's bulk oil from a tank in the corner of the shop, filled with whichever brand that happens to be the lowest bidder that week. Still compliant with the API service standard.

    This is neither here nor there. What do you mean stages? Blend your own concoction of synthetic/conventional mixture? Use synthetic blend?

    Synthetic oil can flow better, so it can leak past already worn seals - that's why switching from conventional oil to synthetic can cause leaks. The reverse isn't true.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014
  13. Jan 7, 2014 at 10:00 PM
    #13
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    i'm not gonna thread jack anymore or debate this anymore as it's been done TONS of times both here on TW as well as off of here.. look it up if you want to but it is NOT a good idea to go directly back from synthetic
     
  14. Jan 8, 2014 at 1:43 AM
    #14
    Loggerhead

    Loggerhead Well-Known Member

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    Nah, it's not too bad at all. I get mine off from underneath with the skids still on. I loosen it and then finish taking it off with a plastic grocery bag around it so it doesn't drip all over the place. Lucky for us the oil filter on the 2.7 is mounted upright so spillage is minimal and pretty much nonexistent with the plastic bag around it ;)

    I'd recommend the synthetic oil as well. I personally use Mobil 1 5w-30. Truck seems happy with it so that makes me happy :D
     
  15. Jan 9, 2014 at 5:20 AM
    #15
    LITacoQ

    LITacoQ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the heads up on the oil filter. Going with the full synthetic. Just hope I don't get any seepage or leaks!
     
  16. Jan 9, 2014 at 7:46 AM
    #16
    stikle

    stikle Well-Known Member

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    Eh, see my Build Thread sig link. Too many mods to list.
    Another vote on full synth,. I run it in both my car and truck. Also, with conventional oil, you should change it every 3000 miles or so. With fill synth you can go up to 7000. It's typically twice as expensive though...but half as many changes. Works out to about the same cost and less garage time.
     
  17. Jan 9, 2014 at 6:20 PM
    #17
    Loggerhead

    Loggerhead Well-Known Member

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    Just make sure that you lube your oil filter gasket and that the mating surfaces for the oil filter and drain plug are clean.

    Oil drain pan plug torque spec is 27 ft-lbs
     
  18. Jan 9, 2014 at 6:37 PM
    #18
    Brodie

    Brodie Gear Jammer

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    QFT...

    Switching back and forth on a motor with 59k on the Odo is a non issue run which ever one you want to.
     
  19. Jan 10, 2014 at 6:38 AM
    #19
    LITacoQ

    LITacoQ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Next on my list...............Buy a torque wrench :D
     
  20. Jan 10, 2014 at 7:12 AM
    #20
    stikle

    stikle Well-Known Member

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    Eh, see my Build Thread sig link. Too many mods to list.
    On sale at . I paid $20 and it was worth it.
     

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