I dream of removing leaf springs without a torch.

And it remains a dream, much like winning powerball. I think odds are better on powerball though.

So ive had a new set of leafs and shocks waiting for an install. A 2 hour job that im on hour 6, just for 1 side. So far ive damaged a breaker bar on nuts that wouldnt break, so ive ended up using a lot of heat to break them loose. Then of course the rubber bushings are completely seized to the hardware. After fighting with them, out came the torch again and fire commenced.

Then found the metal bushing inserts were completel seized to the bolts and no amount of persuasion would do the job. Out came the plasma cutter and a LOT of fire commenced.

And then into town for new ubolts, which it turns out dont exist in my town and have to be ordered along with some new bolts to replace those eaten by my plasma cutter.

Back and begin working on the rear shackles, which have also become 1 with all around them, very zen. I fought with the metal inserts yet again only to find ive been wasting my time as even if i get the insert off, the shackle bolt is to big for the new bushing inserts. Because why not.

So out comes the metal chop saw and angle grinder to kill the pushed in stud. Fortunately i thought ahead to doing the other side so i bought 2 bolts for the front of the springs. So i figure ill just use the extra tonight. It fits perfectly, except its not long enough. Because why not.

And for tonight, i officially give up. Every suspension ive ever done has been a pain. This one though makes the others look like a walk in the park. This is just plain stupid. I have more tools at my disposal than any other time in my life, and after a day i havent gotten 1 spring done.

Anyways, i knew the springs were shot when i bought the truck. I thought they were just negative arched but i was surprised that they only have 2 leafs and an overload. Except the driver side has 1.5 and overload. Turns out the bottom leaf had broken in half definitely explains the heavy lean.

Hopefully i have it back on the road before im too old to drive.

My advice for anyone looking at changing springs in the future, buy replacement everything and just cut it all off. Trying to remove parts is just a waste if time and a killer on your lower back.

 

I feel your pain, and had a similar experience when replacing mine a couple of years ago. In the end, I gave up and let a garage finish the job. I felt a LITTLE better when they reported having spent over half a day removing the old springs...

 

Weirdly I was able to remove my stock springs without a problem, under an hour per side. I had the trouble when I went to install the new leaves, I didn't purchase the extended brake line so I had to balance the axle right at the perfect height and try to compress the leaves enough to fit the bolts in. That's where my 2 hour plan turned into 6...
If we're giving tips: just buy the extended brake line with the Dakars

 

^My guess is the OP lives in the rust belt. Here in CO, my u-bolts fight me every time. I can't imagine what people in the Northeast go through.

 

Haha, shit that sucks but feel your pain. 5+ hours to replace shackles (lots of tourching and cutting)...

However, did help a buddy replace his springs on his '04 and it didnt go too bad, ~1-2 hrs. Had trouble removing one of the eye bolts so cut it off. Turns out the spring (hanging) was tilted a bit and putting a shit ton of tourque on that particular bolt. If you have issues getting a bolt out (especially the eye bolt), make sure the spring is straight and not putting weight/torque on that bolt.

 

I understand your feelssss... I know this exact scenario. Especially when I was replacing LBJs on my old truck. I had to remove the entire knuckle, but, of course, wasn't interested in removing the caliper or brake lines...because bleeding brakes. So I kinda dangled the knuckle and tried to balance it on my knee while I would twist to reach tools and the new parts. ughh...


btw OP, I understand the struggle. Rusty bolts are the worst. Your description was cringeworthy

 

Probably the best description I have ever read. Describes everything I have ever gone through on a rusty old vehicle.
Surprisingly though my Tacoma was fairly easy, only one seized bolt. By the gas tank.
I hate to ask, have you gotten to the front hangers yet? The one by the gas tank will really piss you off.

 

Yep, got it all and back on the road. With a noticeable rake now, im going to let the new springs settle in and then look at doing the fronts. The springs were shot, the shocks were completely shot, no absorbing left in them at all. The truck afaik came from colorado, more rust than I expected.

The last of the drivers side plus passenger side took about 2 hours start to finish. I destroyed everything with the plasma and pulled it apart in pieces. Once i decided nothing was worth saving it took a fraction of the time and the destruction was good for my soul . I ended up with new u bolts and shackle bolts/nuts except for the top shackle pin. They slid out with a 5lb encouragement tool so they were re-used.


Real tip i learned when i did my first jeep lift. Trying to get the springs hung and lined up with the axle is a major pain, sometimes not possible by hand. I know i tried for hours on my first ever spring and I couldnt get the pin to slide in the hole.

So, bolt the spring in entirely. Then jack the axle up just enough so its putting some pressure on the spring. Run a long ratchet strap from the axle to whichever bumper or other solid point the axle needs to shift. Give it a few cranks to position it and then nudge the pin in. It takes about 30 seconds and youre read for ubolts and havent broken a sweat or plead to your favorite deity for divine interference

 

I have done suspension work on many American vehicles as old as 60's models and have never delt with a vehicle with as much bolt seizing issues as the 97 taco I picked up for cheap last summer. I picked it up for around a grand knowing it needed control arm bushings and rear springs and a shackle and I figured it being pretty rust free especially for a Utah truck it would be a simple fix, boy was I wrong. Every single bolt was seized to the inner bushing sleeves and no amount of pb blaster, heat or blows with a hammer even budged them. I ended up having to cut everything out and replacing with new. Due to this I only ended up doing the worst side of the control arm bushings and the one rear shackle just to get it on the road. Knowing what I'm up against, come this summer I'll buy all new hardware and go straight to the cutting when I get around to the rest. Don't know what Toyota uses for hardware, but it sure likes to become one with everything around it.

 

Yeah it's pretty ridiculous. When my 2000 was delivered to me, I took another look underneath to study things for the future. Man...every single component underneath was so dingy with corrosion. It was disgusting. Slave cylinder, cross members, bolts, brake lines, calipers, e-brake cable, every bracket, exhaust, cab, etc etc. Like you, I've done serious work on 60s American cars (old Chryslers, De Sotos, Dodges, etc) that have literally been delivered to the shop in a pile of rust, but damn if those bolts didn't come loose with just a 3/8 socket wrench.
I thought my 1994 Nissan hard body was rusty but then I got a Tacoma! Lmao. I think Toyota somehow found a way to produce things out of molten rust and then sell them.

 

Just cut the bolts. You should be replacing ubolts anyway. The main eye bolts commonly seize to the sleeve inside the bushing and need to be cut out (new ones from Toyota are cheap). If your shackle bolts are giving you trouble, cut them too and replace them with greasable shackle pins.

When you put the new stuff on, use a generous amount of anti-seize on the threads and the sleeve in the main eye bushing. Shouldn't have much trouble after that.

 

Without a torch and BFH working on our rust belt trucks would be pretty impossible

 

I got new bushings for my rear shackles. Energy suspension poly's to be specific. What i thought would be a one hour job turned into a weekend of torching and headaches. I definitely second this, just wish i would have know this info before i started the job. I am definitely going the greasable shackle route when I get my new leafs.

 

Of course the guy who ain't doing the work is always full of advice.

So here's mine....

Something like this I try to be a pessimist.
I assume everything is going to be a rusted mess.
So I buy everything ahead of time and some extra in case I screw something up.
I can always return any extra hardware, etc..

Then I just cut everything off right from the getgo.
And as I got older, I pretty much quit using a breaker bar.
I have several air impacts. Biggest is a 1 inch drive kicks 2300ftlb.
Picked up at an auction for $45, about $800 new.
Torch, cutter/grinder, sawzall, plasma, all auction gear. I love auctions.

If you start to get peeved, take a break. Walk away, have sammich, a drink, cool off. People get hurt wrenching angry.
Seriously, domestic fights, best friends whaling on each other, screaming at the kids and the dog, cause the guy snapped a nut off and whanged his elbow on a hot day.

Also, as I get older, I try to avoid needing that sort of gear.
As Kathy reminds me I'm an RN now and not counting Shocktoberfest nobody wants a nurse with ground in grime hands, busted knuckles, and missing thumbnails.

http://www.henkelna.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797898047489

As Box Rocket says, I love anti seize for reassembly.