Torn CV boot & Suspension failure

[FONT=&quot]I have a 03 Tacoma 4x4 with All-Pro front coil-overs with Deaver leaf springs and Bilsteins on the back.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I am not an aggressive off roader but have had a share of bad bumps. Have got about 130,000 miles on this suspension system. Noticed that the Coil-Overs had leaked out some fluid last year but the shocks still dampen well. What can I expect in dampening loss from them in the future?
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[FONT=&quot]My real concern is that I have noticed for some time that my left front suspension thumps strongly when hitting a sharp bump. Have not been able to find any loose or broken suspension components apart from a torn inner CV boot with grease/oil spilled. Possible root causes of this noise?[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Thanks for opinions.


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if your shock is leaking fluid, then the leak will also attract dirt and grime into the shock, which will wear out the inner components leading to failure. Same thing with the CV boot rip, dirt and shit will get into it. Patch the ripped CV boot with JB Weld for the time being. The All Pro coilovers can be rebuilt probably with new seals and fluid.

 

Those All-Pro coilovers use Bilstein shocks that are not re-buildable, so you'll likely have to buy new shocks. When you get around to replacing the CV boot, you should try a high angle version to prevent premature wear on lifted applications. I'd start with the known issues and see if that takes care of your noise, and the longer you wait, the worse it will get and might cause added problems.

 

Yeah Sarah, they are Bilsteins and they cannot be rebuilt.
Replacement shocks are $600, new coil-overs $799.

 

The OEM CV boots will start perishing at that mileage. One of mine just did, same spot, inner boot where it attaches to the shaft. The other one is starting to show signs, too. 135k miles, mild lift (~2 in).

The boot slide mod may help reduce rubbing and wear a bit too. Check this out

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/146070-boot-slide-mod-no-more-blowing-cv-boots.html

 

As long as the cv shaft is still good and doesn't have too much play in the joint just do this ^^ and a set of boots is only like $35 or $40 here http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329

 

Scocar, your toy is the big daddy of my Silver reg cab!

I'm thinking of just dropping the $140 for two new CV axles instead of trying to replace the boots on these old ones. From what I have read it makes to be a messy job taking them apart.

Read the posts about sliding the inner boot out .75" and clamping it.
But as I got 130k on the original boots w/out modification before they failed maybe not necessary as my lift is only 2.5"

As far as the suspension thumping, I don't think it has anything to do with the CVs or the coil-overs.
How can I figure out what is causing this?

 

I've been running a torn cv boot for about 10,000 miles now. It's not going to fall apart on you anytime soon.

I suggest that if you do buy new cv's, keep the old ones and just take your time rebooting them with some high angle boots.

 

what??? this doesn't make any sense and is bad advice. "I've been driving on ruined components for 10k miles, so you should too"??
Why would someone (who already made the proper decision to buy new axles instead of putting a band-aid on old, worn axles and avoid the mess of putting new boots on) want to waste time and money trying to salvage old, blown up CVs? And then have them hanging around for 5 years for when...? the new ones blow up?



To answer the OP: if you suspension is really clunky, I would say to at least check your ball joints. Usually the lowers will really let you know when they're bad. In smaller cars you can sometimes feel the clunking in the floorboard, too.

 

Haha considering many people have ran a torn boot for over a year. Yes I was suggesting it to him.

A torn boot isn't something to warrant as an immediate replacement being needed. If you have the money and time and want to replace it, then by all means. Otherwise you'll be perfectly fine with a torn boot.

 

Yeah, what I'm suggesting is that if you get aftermarket CV assemblies, do the boot-slide mod before installing them on the truck. Note that just because the boots are just slightly cracked/leaking near the clamp, the CV itself is likely still fine if all the grease hasn't leaked out and they haven't been run hard and hot or in super dirty or wet (like immersed) conditions. You should look into rebuilding or simply rebooting the OEMs if the actual CV/birfields are still mechanically sound, you could get high-angle boots for them, too (as Matt suggested), and save them as spares for when you hit 260k miles

Who said the joints themselves are "ruined" or "blown up"? It is pretty common for the boots to leak and the joint still be fine. No need to jump to this conclusion without some inspection of the actual components.

A slightly cracked and leaky boot caught early doesn't mean the Birfield is ruined. As long as the boot is not torn wide open (like on a rock or branch) and isn't exposed to hard use and starved of grease and exposed to contaminants for a long time, it may be fine. Personally, I wouldn't roll 10k on a known leaker because I won't expose myself to that kind of uncertainty. Birfields usually fail at extreme angles and high torque (low range), and when you are in these conditions, you are usually a long fucking way from home...

 

I understand that a torn CV boot will not make your truck blow up or anything. I understand that CV axles are only in use, under stress, and subject to torque when in 4wd. I understand this.
But why is it that you would intentionally leave a worn, broken component on your truck? You guys wait in line to throw down $15k on a 10 year old truck with 150k and yet you won't even take the time to replace a $50 axle??

Besides, you're acting like the boot and grease will make the axle 100% immune to wear. This is not true. I've seen CV axles, ball joints, tie rods, ujoints, you name it, with plenty of grease, and perfectly intact grease boots that are fucked. I've seen ball joints with a 1/4in of up and down play (clunky clunk!) that looked brand new. I've seen CV axles that were scary to imagine they were on a truck 5 minutes prior, perfectly intact CV boot.

But you know, it's no biggie. Just leave torn boot and ruined axle alone. MAYBE throw some duct tape on there (did someone say JB weld btw? )
That oil leak coming from your engine? just add more oil, it'll go away, I promise.
Those squeaky brakes? you ain't hit nobody yet, right? s'all good brotha!
Driving like this



for a year ain't do nobody no harm!

It's just funny that you would recommend someone go through all the work of removing an old axle (remove tire, tie rod, brake line, upper BJ, lower BJ, knuckle, CV axle bolts) put new boots on, then re-install old, worn axle, and call it a day. Unless you're talking about those 'wrap-around' clamp-on boots. I thought those were a joke? I didn't know people really used those?

 

I'm not sure who you are addressing with "you guys." And nobody said reinstall failed parts. No need to jump to wild conclusions based on your wild assumptions.

 

The replacements should be closer to $400, I'm getting a quote for you just to see. Worn ball joints can also cause a clunking noise as others have mentioned.

 

I wish $400. Good luck and thanks!

Yeah, a number of people have suggested the ball joints. I'll bet thats it.
Frankly I feel like spending the money to redo the whole front end suspension.
What about A-arms? Or what other components would people plan on changing if they were considering the same?

 

A-arms should never go bad unless they get banged up somehow. They are a structural component and aren't subject to regular wear. It would be a good idea to replace associated bushings though

 

I would recommend sourcing a used OEM CV axle over a reman/new aftermarket CV. That being said, I would also not recommend high angle boots, when you could just do the boot slide mod. However, when you do the boot slide mod, try not to stretch the boot too much or you'll be back at square one before you know it. Just past the indentation where the clamp groove is fine. I usually spray my boots with silicone spray every 5k or so, just as an extra step... 5 seconds to spray them down every 6 months is a lot better than the PITA of getting a CV axle out of the diff.

As far as your clunking, I would also recommend you check your steering rack. You may have a worn inner tie rod. I am at the point now where I will have to replace those soon.

 

How long have you been getting away with the silicone spray on the CV boots? I've always thought about doing this, but also thought that the spray would attract extra dirt/rocks, possibly causing premature damage to the boots (rubbing the dirt/rocks bw the boot fins). I've been curious on how successful this preventative maintenance is.

 

Good point. Now I'm curious too. You spray silicon in an attempt to keep the CV boots supple?

 

With the typical 3"(+/-) lift, the inner CV boot fins rub, causing a wear mark/ indention that, from what I understand, will eventually wear through. I personally haven't had this happen yet, but already have the wear marks. A friend had suggested the silicone spray in order to keep less friction/heat when the fins rub, though I'd be worried that the spray would simply attract dirt. In theory, it sounds great, but I haven't heard any actual success stories yet, and that's why I was questioning how long "thunderone" has been using this technique and if it's been proven to be helpful.
I apologize if I'm threadjacking, but figure it's all relevant...