nother suspension problem..

That's where I really fucked up I literally didn't measure a single thing before my lift.. Oh well.
Do you have axle shims?
How much did you drop the center bearing?
I might order a carrier drop and just see if it helps.. Not sure what else I can do besides retorque bolts.

One thing I noticed that doesn't look right/just need a fix what about the steel cable brake lines when I put the e brake on the cables hit the leafs.

 

Hmm I don't know if they are blown. well I guess I should take the rubber sleeve thing off?

 

I didn't install axle shims. I figured I'd see how it drove first.

I dropped the center bearing with the OME FK29 (ordered from Wheelers); basically it is just ~1/4 inch shims that go between the bearing and mounting bracket. I think washers might even do the trick.

Oh, and my ebrake cable sits below the leafs; no contact.

 

Hmm I'll fab up some spacers then.. Yea I don't think the cable was touching when I had no shims..

 

I don't like the e-brake cable rubbing on the leaves. Your leaf-pack (which now includes the shim) is too thick. It will affect the operation of the e-brake, and eventually fray the cable.

The close-up photo of the leaf pack shows that the bottom 3 leaves are much thicker than the upper 3. That can't be all one leaf pack. It looks like a thicker set of AAL's have been added. What did you mean by "OME leaf pack" ?

 

Literally got the leaf as one piece from toytec (95.5-97 ome dakars) I put the shims on I didn't put any aal or anything. But i agree those damn leafs raised the back end up high as hell. I know I saw somewhere that someone made little extensions for their brake cables I might try to come up with something.

 

I just talked to my mechanic buddy and he said he would take a look at it sometime next week. So I'll see what he says.. I have a feeling that i just need longer shocks which would be fucked because toytec didn't say the billy 5100's wouldn't work with the dakars.. Or maybe they just don't work with dakars + shims..?

 

If the back end is too high, then removing one of the leaves will lower the rear, and make enough clearance for the brake cable. Do it right, 2 wrongs don't make a right.

Edited:
PS - I hope you didn't re-use the stock overload. Its hard to tell from your pics (should have turned on the flash). If you did, remove it.

 

Well I think the reason I can't raise the front to match the back is because I need some after market UCA's.. I've seen a few ppl on here that made extensions to raise the brake cable to clear the leafs. Honestly I don't think the cable has anything to do with my problem because when the e brake isn't on the cable is loose.. It's not like I'm using the e brake when my rear tires start spinnin.

Literally used nothing from the stock stuff except where I had to. Didnt add or take anything off of the new leafs except for the shim.. My buddy who has a pretty built jeep said he thinks the axle and the driveshaft need to be more straight (basically put a higher degree shim on the leafs..). I didn't even think about this but I'm going to email toytec and just see what they say.

 

Sorry to thread jack, but I got a quick question, I just installed the same bilstien shocks in the rear, except I installed them with the plastic boot near the rear axels(opposite to the way you installed them in the picture above)
Does it matter which way you install the rear shocks?

 

No prob bro.
Doesn't matter at all but after doin research I found out it's better to put them how you have it because there won't be as much dirt/dust/mud build up where the shaft goes in. I also read you should take the boots of because they keep the dirt in.

 

There's nothing wrong with your leaf springs that I can see. It's normal for the lower 3 leaves to be thicker than the upper 3. That is the progressive overload leaves for the OME springs. The springs are a little different on the early trucks like yours but it looks normal.

I think the problem is your e-brake cable. it should not be stretched over the top of the springs like that.

 

Hmm ok I'll have to try to come up with something to fix that...
Thank you.
If that fixes it I'm still going to loosen everything then re torque everything to spec just to be sure.

 

Looking at it again, I'm not sure you need the shims. You need to check the angles of your flanges. If you have a one piece driveshaft your pinion is pointing up to far. It should be almost flat level to match the angle of the flange coming out of the back of the t-case, or to match the angle of the joint at the carrier bearing if you have a two-piece driveshaft. If you have a double cardan joint at the t-case end, then your pinion should be in line with the driveshaft. Either way your angle is off.

 

Thank you again you've been extremely helpful. It's still kind of hard for me to understand this because it's my first time dealing with driveshafts.. I'm kind of getting it though. So I have a ext cab which is a 2 piece driveshaft w/ carrier bearing. The double Cardon joint is in the middle of the drive shaft (on the pinion side of the carrier bearing). I just went out and looked and the drive shaft is very close to being in line with the pinion.. In my opinion from just looking(I don't have an angle finder yet) all I really need to do is drop the carrier bearing a bit which will lower the drive shaft and then the pinion will be inline w/ driveshaft.

Gave you a rep for that post btw.

 

The real question is what are you parked next to? I spy some ORI's hiding on that rig

Sorry for the threadjack

 

Lol I was at BAMF that day.. That's Jerry's truck. Super boss status.

 

So i still haven't done much in the means of trying to figure this out. I did have my mechanic buddy look at it and he said he thinks its normal (i don't..). He said it might be because of the uneven wear on the tires. He also said i need to lower the carrier bearing which i think is right but i also think the carrier bearing is unrelated and has more to do with the 60-70mph driveline vibs.

the new info that i figured out is that it seems like it happens a lot more when i turn right. when i turn left i don't notice it as much if at all. which is funny because the whole shock thing i was talking about in my initial post was only on the right side.. the driver side shock fit perfectly. but the passenger shock was 1/4" too short.. hopefully i have time to try and figure this out soon.

when you turn right the weight goes to the left side which would fully extend the right side shock. right? so maybe the shock is not letting the right side tire stay on the ground when making sharp turns.

 

So I figured out another thing.. My passenger side is about 1/2" -1" higher than my driver side.. Without the shock.. Wtf? How can I fix this.. The only things holding it higher is the leafs and shackles...

Oh yea also took the shock boots off And they look fine.. But now I'm almost convinced the problem is because the right side sits higher..

 

It's because the gas tank and battery are both on the driver side. They make trim spacers you can install if you want. It was bad on my 96, but not noticeable on my 03.