2001 Tacoma Frame Rust

yep, that's pretty rough, similar to what mine looked like. If you decide to go the route that I described above feel free to shoot me any questions, this thread might become a handy resource for others. I feel like its a great system, the rust converter really soaks into the metal, doesn't just form a shell over it like some other products/paints, and the top coats repel moisture (corrosion). Plus its relatively cheap and can be easily touched up. Good luck

 

So I have another question, would it be best to seal up all of the wholes that were drilled into the frame so water can't get into it anymore after I spray internal frame coating in it (and letting it dry ofcourse)?

 

I looked for a while to find plastic plugs to cover them but had no luck finding any. The more I though about it, its actually not a good idea. Even if they were plugged really well, moisture from humidity and condensation would still be present. So you want them open to allow air circulation to keep it dry.

 

Would closing the frame up with it being completely dry and no moisture in the air technically keep it from rotting from the inside out?

 

Unless you can guarantee a vacuum tight seal then no. as long as there is air penetration condensation can form.

I would clean it up the best you can and use a small hammer to lightly tap all over to see if any weak spots. get them fixed and coat it. If you're taking the bed off (can use an engine hoist with a longer reach) just make sure you can put it back on, cab is tougher to do with all the connections.

Not sure if this was mentioned at all but could possibly take it to a place that specializes in undercoating like a Zeibart or w/e?

 

That's true.
I would take it somewhere to have it done professionally done if I had the money.

 

That looks like it's in way, way better shape than my 99 was when I sold it back to Toyota. I'd start hitting every nut/bolt you're thinking of working on with PBlaster (or pbblaster, can't remember what it's called - white/black can w/ yellow lid at most auto parts stores) for a few days before you plan on working on them. That should go a long way towards getting them loose without damaging anything.

 

You can sand blast, seal, prime, paint-over, whatever... the original steel was never properly coated with PHOSPHATE! This is why there are 1980s GM trucks running around up here in the salty Northeast and the frames still look good without PERFORATION? These TOYOTA frames were (are) rusting on new dealer lots. I'm afraid fighting this rust is a losing battle as it comes from the inside out. I had my frame replaced but hope the 2nd one was properly treated, if you have the original and it spent time in a suspect state, it bears watching. I gotta say the "C" CHANNEL design appears way better than this BOXED style Toyota chose as air circulation certainly seems to be a factor??

 

It was just shitty steel to begin with, no one is denying that. That's why we're slopping a plethora of phosphate coatings on them now, trying to squeeze as much life outta these trucks as we can. And for those who don't qualify for new frames, it's quite a process. Losing battle, shit, literally every machine on earth is fighting a losing battle, if you want to get hypothetical! Just buyin' time, Richie!

 

Good advice on cleaning the surface rust up before painting, but DON'T USE RUSTOLEUM!! It works OK but for a rusting TACO frame you need a rust converter. Use POR-15, I have had rust issues and my frame is in great shape now. It chemically converts the rust to stop it and the finish is hard as nails. You can take a hammer to my frame and this stuff will not chip off! (My frame looks great now, too.) If you do the research you'll find that this is what to pros use for restorations- I sprayed mine on to get into all the nooks and crannies but you can brush it on, too. It's a two part paint and there are two chemicals you need to treat the surface with for preperation… it's a pain to put on but after a year so far it's been invincible. Heres the Link:

http://www.por15.com/

 

Well we've definitely discussed using rust converters here, the kind that chemically convert rust into a paintable surface. I'm not sure if you're bashing Rustoleum as a brand or if you have some specific product in mind, because they make quite a few, and from my experience they work well if you apply them properly.

On to Por15, I've never used it, but while researching what to put on my frame I read a lot about these products. It seems that it is the professionals choice because if you're professionally restoring a vehicle, its a complete tear down and you have every inch of the frame right in front of you, with all the tools and materials at hand. Well, most of us don't want to tear our daily driver apart for weeks on end. So we treat the frame as the vehicle sits, and here rises the problem, as far as I have read: Por15 dries so hard that if you happen to miss even the slightest crack or bubble, the rust will begin to creep in there, making way for more moisture and corrosion. The por15 "shell" around your frame retains all this moisture and rust, without you being able to notice it, because on the outside it looks good and shiny. I've included a couple links below.

The reason I swear by my method is that it is repeatable, whereas Por15 is a permanent coating (you can't hammer it off), it has multiple layers of protection, and when the rust gets any worse (lets face it, its a question of when not if, no matter what you do to your frame) it is visible and you can address the problem, instead of not being able to see whats going on. Also, Por15 is much more expensive than any of the products I recommended using.

The debate goes on


http://forums.off-road.com/jeep-short-wheelbase/6521-review-por-15-after-1-5-years-use.html

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=196793

 

I'll second PATACO13 - there is no one-shot permanent fix for this. If you want a frame to last forever and you drive on salt, you have to be proactive, check it out every year, and touch up as needed. If you just want to prolong its life, then a hard undercoating will do that just fine but you'll only be adding a few years to it, several if you're lucky.

I got 2 pairs of Rhino Ramps at Northern Tool, a pair of 9x12 canvas drop cloths to protect my driveway, a headlamp, a face shield, and one of those creeper board thingies. I had all kinds of room to work comfortably and it's all reusable so in the long run it won't cost that much.

 

Ok, I didn't mean to bash Rustoleum, I've just had better luck SO FAR with POR-15. That being said, I will check my frame soon to see if rust and moisture is seeping under the painted coating. I hadn't heard of this issue but it makes sense, I know there are parts of the frame (such as the top) that were hard to cover properly. I'll report back with my findings! It's been on for a year now so this should be a good test.

 

So, what do you all suggest for the outside of the frame and spring perches?

I saw these and was interested...

Eastwood 13651Z Black Rubberized Rust Encapsulator (15oz Aerosol)

http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Rubb...im_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1NPAATGDH9MYCF33PFMC

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-clear-matte-15-ounce-aerosol.html

 

Ok Pataco13... soooo... you were right. it's been two years and the POR-15 I was so pumped about all chipped away after the rust got under it. Now I have a perforated frame in one spot I have decided to go with rust encapsulators and I'm currently spraying fluid film on everything twice a year. Its cheap and easy and seems to be working pretty well so far. Not really any prep needed either it just soaks in