I'm a moron and my truck paid the price. ECU blown?

I installed a sound system last night and everything was going great... I was finishing up when i tried to fasten down my plastic door trim piece with a self tapping screw. I remembered the bundle of computer wires underneath a little too late. I hit the bundle of wires under the drivers side kick panel with a self tapping screw... Because I'm a moron. I repaired the pictured wires but I think I fried a computer or something because now it barely starts and when it does the throttle doesn't work until half way down, and when it revs up it hits 2000 rpm and sounds like it hits the rev limiter. Not to mention I have more than 9 OBD2 error codes. All the error codes (that I can read) are for air flow sensors, throttle sensors, and stuff like that... It blew the breaker that controls my power locks as well. It's my own personal hell.

I've checked every fuse i could get my hands on, I pulled the EFI fuse for an hour, and I pulled the little computer box out of the kick panel and visually inspected the circuit board inside and couldn't see any damage. I can't think of anything else to do except pull the ecu and take it to a dealer for testing... unless someone knows something else i can try.

Here's the wires I hit.

 

Maybe try nd take the negative battery connector off for a bit? It might reset the computer?

 

Yup, easiest stuff first. Pull the positive post terminal for a minute or so. reconnect, Key then on and listen for a few seconds,,,then roll key to start.


Watched our crew chief stab some wires on a $150K Outlaw 10.5 car,,watched the lightning race up the wires and start the meltdown procedure. Luckily, someone was close by and snapped the battery off within a couple seconds. It nuked a Racepak within those seconds. Racepak was very kind to us and sponsored a new one back. Didn't loose any sensors or ignition boards ,,it just got the unit. Racepak uses a 200 amp bar breaker on there big systems and it popped that no prob.

It melted 4 wires together when it went. Traced those wires and repaired the sections that melted.

It might not be as bad as one might think.

 

Unplug battery for about 10 minutes might help

 

What I want to know is why you were trying to put a self tapping screw to re-instlal your kick panel? It just snaps in?

 

It is never a good idea to disconnect the positive terminal first. Always disconnect the negative cable first.

I agree that a good idea would be to disconnect the negative cable and wait about 30 seconds for the internal capacitors to discharge. Then reconnect and clear all DTCs before restarting. Remember that Toyota vehicles do not always start and idle real well after a reset, so give it time to self-calibrate.

 

yup... when it has snaps. hence the self tapping screws as a temporary measure until I could order a new one.

 

sounds like my plan of attack when i get back to my truck (it's stranded at work) is to unplug the battery. While it's unplugged i'll solder up the wires and heat shrink them. if that doesn't work it's probably time to drag it to a shop...

 

Also make sure all the wiring harnesses are fully plugged into the ECU. When I was installing my remote start, I didn't push one harness back in all the way and my truck started and ran about how yours is currently starting and running. After I pushed it in until it clicked, it ran fine. I doubt you messed with any of those harnesses if you were installing a stereo, but its a quick thing to check.

PS. You going to school in Rexburg?

 

Yup, negative cable first. I blame it on my extra early start,,up at the crack of noon(830am). 4 projects going at the same time.

 

Here are all the codes it's throwing:

P2138 Throttle Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'D'/'E' Voltage Correlation
P2135 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'A'/'B' Voltage Correlation
P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor 'A' Low Input
P0560 System Voltage Malfunction
P0222 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'B' Circuit - Low Input
P0122 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch 'A' Circuit Low Input
P0102 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch 'A' Circuit Low Input
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input

The common denominator of all these problems is the ECU... I think it's toast...

 

You have a 50/50 chance,,pray for a blown ECU,,sadly.

Just from the looks of your wires you repaired,,and that general area. I think your odds are better and your headed in the direction I would,,fwiw.

After that to no effect,,start tracing wires back.

 

that's what i figured... how do i even get to the ecu? Is it as easy as popping off the glove box?

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/5696-2001-2004-tacoma-factory-service-manual.html

I think that first link at the first post is still good. They opened for me so you should be good to go.

Save those.

 

I've had a similar problem, but mine was reversing polarity on the battery terminals. Blew a grip load of fuses and I have the same throttle problem. The throttle plate would only open when the accelerator pedal is depressed half way down. My truck only threw 3 or 4 codes if i can remember correctly. I thought i fried my ecu but after a lot of research i came to a conclusion that its the ETCS-i. I just recently bought a throttle body and waiting for it to come in to confirm my diagnosis as the throttle body houses everything that controls ETCS-i. Based on the codes your truck is throwing most of them are ETCS-i related. So when my throttle body comes in i'll let you know how it goes and maybe you can try that before getting a new ECU.

 

Will your truck not even start like mine? Knowing my luck it'll probably be both for me. A dealer should be able to test my ecu, right? I pulled it last night and plan on taking it to a dealer today...

 

Sounds like you took out the 5 volt feeds to the sensors in the ECM.

 

I hope that's all I did... I'm afraid I might have to start chasing down ask these sensors of i blew them too...

 

In case you need an ECU, this guy is selling one:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...7-fs-1998-tacoma-ecu-new-orleans-100-obo.html

Make sure the numbers match up to yours, obviously.

 

Unfortunately they don't... Looks like that's out of a manual, and mine's automatic...