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Clutch going out?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Bamahoyt, May 20, 2014.

  1. May 20, 2014 at 5:33 AM
    #1
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have a 2001 TRD 4x4 with the 5 speed and the 3.4L and this morning I was driving home and I noticed when I took off at a red light and my clutch pedal stuck half way in and then I pushed it all the way and my truck stalled out in 1st gear. Once I got to the house, I put it in neutral and coasted up the hill and once I was stopped, I pushed the clutch in again and it stuck and then I could not even get it back in gear with the clutch pressed fully in. Do you think that my clutch is crapping (or has crapped) out on me or is there some adjustments somewhere that could suddenly come loose to cause this? Any input would be great including experience for costs for getting a clutch replaced. Thanks in advance!
     
  2. May 20, 2014 at 7:09 AM
    #2
    Mod

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  3. May 20, 2014 at 10:44 AM
    #3
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the info! I will look into that!
     
  4. May 20, 2014 at 6:53 PM
    #4
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I started replacing my clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder today and my hard line directly out of my slave cylinder has a bushing that will not spin so I cannot reuse the hard line. I have been searching for about 20minutes for where to buy another line but cant find it. Can anyone help me locate one? Thanks in advance!! here is a picture of the line I am needing

    SC_V_zpsdc32d886_2425ee6ba02a6bfd03b44c8a4bd3a4e73c51b649.jpg
     
  5. May 20, 2014 at 6:55 PM
    #5
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    most likely dealership is your only option. If you can wait for it to ship, can order from Camelback Toyota for a decent price.
     
  6. May 20, 2014 at 7:18 PM
    #6
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    2010.TRD.SportDCLB4x4Limited leather package
    TRD Sport Rally -5 speed automatic Limited ,Factory heated leather seats ,chrome package,Super white with front windows tinted to 35 % Dick Cepek DC-2 wheels Summer tires - Good year silent armor P265/65R17 Winter tires - Good year P265/65R17 Ultra Ice studded Illuminated 4x4 switch TRD 3rd brake light cover ($20) TRD seat belt shoulder protectors (5). ($50) TRD ...B pillar emblems ($20) TRD rear slider sticker with devil horns ( $6) TRD summer floor matts ($60) TRD steering wheel emblem ($20) TRD floor pedals .($95) TRD shorty antenna ($14) TRD front Windshield emblems ($17) TRD head pillows .($60) TRD head rest protectors TRD door scuff protection $20 TRD floor matt emblems ($40) TRD tow plug emblem . ($40) TRD cigarette lighter with LED.($35) TRD tissue dispenser ($12) TRD front bezel emblems ($9) TRD door emblems ($6) TRD lanyards($9) TRD lisence plates with TRD bolts($50) TRD fender emblems TRD center caps Part Number:PT904-35070-CC ($80) TRD cd
    Judging by the picture , you should be able to unbolt the slave cylinder and spin the slave to unloosen it . Once the slave is off , an impact gun will get that bushing free .
    To add : hydraulic shops can make you a flex line from the slave to the master , just keep it away from the exhaust
     
  7. May 20, 2014 at 7:40 PM
    #7
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Awesome, thanks for the options! Didn't even think about using an impact. If that doesn't work, I will be having a hydraulic shop make me
    One. Thanks again
     
  8. May 20, 2014 at 9:17 PM
    #8
    Mod

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    No problem,,your welcome.

    I knew there had just been another thread dealing with that recently,,just had to find it.
     
  9. May 21, 2014 at 12:03 PM
    #9
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, so I got everything in and its shifting great but the pedal won't reset the last 1/2" or so. Do you think this is because I need to adjust the plunger rod? I matched it with the old adjustment rod but maybe the old one was worn? I bled it and had absolutley no bobbles either so we are good there.
     
  10. May 21, 2014 at 1:20 PM
    #10
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    I would read up about the return spring that sits above the pedal
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/329760-2002-tacoma-clutch-pedal-spring-problem.html

    Then I would read up about the bushings in the pedal lever as well
    http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/index.php?article=166

    You could probably adjust the free play out of the pedal using your adjusting rod . I just thought posting all the options would help

    You got that critter fixed up quick , Did you have to replace the line or were you able to get the bushing free ?

    I am going to edit this . The 1/2 of free play should be there . Its designed this way so as the clutch wears , the travel gets closer to the top .As your clutch disc wears down , pedal travel increases .
    You can take up the free play using your adjusting rod .Only issue is I dont remember if your release bearing is centrifical or semi centrifical . If you take all the play out , your clutch release bearing will turn all the time . If you leave some play , the clutch release bearing will only turn when you push the clutch pedal down . Now how do we figure out if your release bearing ( AKA throw out )is semi centrifical or centrifical ?

    OK i remember now . Thats not a self adjusting clutch so you need a little free play at the top of pedal travel to keep your clutch release bearing from turning all the time . I have a great memory , its just very very short:D
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2014
  11. May 21, 2014 at 1:54 PM
    #11
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    bump for edit
     
  12. May 22, 2014 at 6:45 AM
    #12
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all your help! It would have gone even faster had that hard line not gotten screwed up. I ended up replacing the line with a braided line for the local hydraulic store. They built me one for $16 so I figured it was best just to replace it. I think I will adjust the rod and see if that does the trick. If not, I will replace the pedal spring with a linear one. Wouldn't having the new spring remove ALL free play? Dont we want 1/2" of free play?
     
  13. May 22, 2014 at 7:39 AM
    #13
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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    I used the brake pedal return spring for the linear spring and it still has the correct amount of free play at the top per Toyota specs.
     
  14. May 22, 2014 at 7:39 AM
    #14
    Mod

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    Kinda what I was thinking it would cost between threads,,about $15 for the custom line. Upullit Junkyard would be about 1/2 that I think,, along with all the grease,grime and grinding dirt. Well worth the few extra bucks for a fresh custom line. A good set of tubing wrenches are an investment that saves time and duckets. Those flare fittings can be tenacious monsters. Rounded off my share after all these years and some of those I conveniently forgot about,,because it got ugly.:eek::mad:

    Yes, 1/2" freeplay if possible. Go with your gut right now and adjust that rod and see how it does.

    You still might have a crapped clutch,,but we will cross that if needed. Sticking pedals at the end of the depress,,then not returning is a vauge indicator. I think you posted that originally, If I read that right.
     
  15. May 22, 2014 at 9:37 AM
    #15
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well I drove it for about 20 miles today and adjusted the free play where I thought it would be good and I noticed that my clutch Started not fully engaging again but not like it was before. I can drive it but I can feel it not fully engaging when I shift so I adjusted my clutch again with less free play to see if it would engage better while still disengaging when no clutch is pushed. Think my clutch is on it's last leg or could it just be that final Adjustment for engagement? I might bleed it again just to make sure I got all the air out also.
     
  16. May 22, 2014 at 12:26 PM
    #16
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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  17. May 22, 2014 at 12:51 PM
    #17
    Bamahoyt

    Bamahoyt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I replaced both at the same time. After I made the second adjustment I haven't had a problem for like 15miles so maybe it was just not fully engaging my clutch because it had too much free play. Will keep you guys posted thanks!
     

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