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Trouble getting transmission shaft detached from flywheel

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by samslive, May 29, 2014.

  1. May 29, 2014 at 5:31 PM
    #1
    samslive

    samslive [OP] Member

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    My clutch recently started to go in my 97. I decided to tackle the job of installing a new one myself with a buddy who has installed several clutches. We have all bolts, wires, drive shaft, muffler, slave, starter, and the 4 wheel drive/ 5 speed stick removed. The transmission is free except it is stuck still to the flywheel area. We have shook the transmission in every known way to man and it won't budge from that area. Any help would be awesome since it has taken around 4 hours to get to this point.
     
  2. May 29, 2014 at 5:56 PM
    #2
    Mod

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    Sometimes, you have to get REALLY violent with them. Grab the tail shaft, brace yourself, and shake the piss out of it.

    Your alignment pins are probably crudded up, or you guys missed a bolt.

    Just went thru this last weekend on a buddys vehicle. Damn Honda with a D15B8 engine. 1 starter bolt did not pass thru the trans to the block,,the other HIDDEN one did. Once that bolt was found and pulled,,,pop!.

    If your absolutely positive that it is free of fasteners,, careful screwdriver wedging ensues. Even gaps all around as you go or it will bind up.
     
  3. May 29, 2014 at 7:54 PM
    #3
    samslive

    samslive [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the info we have fiddled with it for almost 4 hours and it's barely budged. It hurts me to say this but even my buddy thinks a good mechanic needs to take a look at why it's not coming loose.
     
  4. May 29, 2014 at 7:59 PM
    #4
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    I don't see mention of the bell housing debris plate. You get that? Bottom of the bell housing. should be 4 bolts along the bottom lip of the bell housing. Can't remember if they are 10mm or 12mm heads.

    Do you know which transmission, the R150 or the W59?
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2014
  5. May 29, 2014 at 8:29 PM
    #5
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    Also, probably not related but have you disconnected all the wiring?
    1. Speed sensor at the transfer case
    2. Reverse switch on the side of the transmission
    3. 4WD sensor on top of the adapter between the transmission and transfer case
    4. Wire harness connected on top of the transmission
     
  6. May 30, 2014 at 4:07 AM
    #6
    samslive

    samslive [OP] Member

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    Yes sir the debris plate was removed. And I don't know what transmission type it is I still trying to learn my truck. If it helps I have a 97 Tacoma SX 2.7L 4x4. And thanks for the help man!
     
  7. May 30, 2014 at 4:08 AM
    #7
    samslive

    samslive [OP] Member

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    And yes all the wiring was detached. We have really inspected it and it looks like it is just held on by rust.
     
  8. May 30, 2014 at 5:03 AM
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    Mod

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  9. May 30, 2014 at 6:59 AM
    #9
    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    The R150 has the starter on the passenger side. The W59 has the starter on the driver side.

    If it is the R150, there are 6 bell housing bolts to remove, 2 on driver side, 2 on the passenger side and 2 up top.

    Also, might want to blast the alignment pins with PB blaster. There are two of them. Trying to remember where they are. If they are holding the transmission on but you have a slight amount of play, you should be able to see where they are when rocking the transmission up/down, side-to-side.

    If it is a combination of the input shaft and alignment pins, might want to try raising the jack to take the pressure off the input shaft. Raising the transmission almost all the way to the floor pan should still leave an inch or two for the transmission to slide back before the transfer case shift tower hits the floor opening edge.

    Is the transmission not budging at all or is there some play?
     
  10. May 30, 2014 at 7:15 AM
    #10
    samslive

    samslive [OP] Member

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    Thanks for all the info. But Yeah you can shake the transmission all you want but that front plate by the fly wheel is almost likes it glued. We have inspected this thing several times over and there are absolutely no bolts or wires still in it. I've heard of other guys having this issue and had to have it professionally removed. We even used a small chisel to try to split the connection but it's to tight and I don't want to break the aluminum housing on the tranny.
     
  11. May 30, 2014 at 7:51 AM
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    Mod

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    Did you remove the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel already?
     
  12. May 30, 2014 at 8:02 AM
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    tomtom

    tomtom Well-Known Member

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    I don't think he can get to the pressure plate. He hasn't been able to remove the transmission.

    OP, the other thing I thought of is using a ratchet strap to put some pull on the transmission assembly. Wrap it around the transfer case and then to the carrier bearing crossmember and start cranking it down. Use that in combination with wedges, shaking, etc to get the bell housing separated from the engine.
     
  13. May 30, 2014 at 9:09 AM
    #13
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    The guys are giving you excellent advice .
    What transmission do you have ?
    There are all kinds of google images here that will give you an idea wether you have all the bolts out or not , Just determine if this is your transmission https://www.google.ca/search?q=toyo...AIcuvyATTwIKgBQ&ved=0CDoQsAQ&biw=1024&bih=669

    Spray the dowel pins with lube . I have used a full can of spray on some of these while prying at the dowel pins . Some dowel pins go directly through the engine block . In some cases ,i have punched the dowel pins through the engine block to get the transmission out .Once the transmission is out , you will have room to punch the dowel pins back to where they belong
     
  14. May 30, 2014 at 9:20 AM
    #14
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    I have a 1997 with the same setup. The transmission was a bit difficult to get out the first time. One thing that can help is to VERY slightly lift the front of the engine up with a jack or other lifting tool. This helps in removal by keeping the engine and transmission lined up together, and allowing the engine to not move around when you wiggle and jerk. You didn't mention if you were doing this on a lift, or just jack stands. Another thing to help remove it is the bell housing vent. On the top of the transmission is a square rubber piece, similar to the piece where the clutch lever passes into the bell housing. Removing this piece can allow you to insert a small pry bar that can be used to help push and pull.
     
  15. May 30, 2014 at 9:24 AM
    #15
    Andy.G

    Andy.G Well-Known Member

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    I did this recently. Used big screw drivers in appropriate spots. It has to come off evenly. Probably binding on bottom.
     
  16. May 30, 2014 at 11:58 AM
    #16
    COMAtized99

    COMAtized99 Well-Known Member

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    If you have a 4 cylinder you have a w59. If you have a v6 you have the r150.


    I assume you took the shifters out? Maybe the pilot bearing is stuck on the input?
     
  17. May 30, 2014 at 12:10 PM
    #17
    4runnercaged

    4runnercaged Well-Known Member

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    i had to shake the ever living shit out of mine.
     
  18. May 31, 2014 at 8:37 AM
    #18
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Any luck OP?
     
  19. Jun 1, 2014 at 4:36 AM
    #19
    samslive

    samslive [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the help you guys but I still was not able to get it free! I went as far as taking a large size wedge bar like a crow bar and hit it with a hammer. The seal did not want to budge. I went as far as I could without causing damage to other parts. But I will let you guys know what happens in the future because I had to put everything back together because it is my daily driver
    And on a side note this forum is kick butt will be coming here for all my questions!
     
  20. Jun 1, 2014 at 4:38 AM
    #20
    samslive

    samslive [OP] Member

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    Yeah I did not have one on hang but we had two guys shaking the transmission at all sorts if weird angles using the jacks.
     

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