Brake clunk, It really doesn't sound/feel "normal"

What are caliper shims? My calipers just bolt directly on, as do the tundra calipers I have.

Are you guys referring to brake pad shims? That go between the calipers and the brake pads?

 

Well, lessee. When you release the pedal during normal driving, the pressure comes off the little slave cylinder and the shoes retract in due to the spring hardware,,to release brakes. Same SIMILAR thing happens when the ebrake is released, minus the slave cylinder action, other than slack being taken out of the dogears on the slave that touch the shoes due to previously mentioned spring action(breath).

Maybe check the slider pads on the shoes or backing plate. I think it's 6 raised dimples on the backing plate(3 per side), Then each shoe also has 3 slider pads,,I think it's 3. Been some time since I was in there. Those slider pads should be kept clean and lubed with white grease, lubriplate, or some other favorite grease occasionally,,once every year or two at least depending on use. a very SMALL fingertip swipe of grease on the backing plate side raised dimples. I use Liquid wrench dry lube because it doesn't or can't goop/grease the pads. If those are rocked/gritted up and loaded with schmag and aren't allowed to self adjust back easily , they can cause a squeak similar to your events.

Also take the time to reach in and lube all the pivot points you see,,obvious pivot points, star adjuster threads, self adjusting pivot points,,on the backside/dirtside of the backing plate as well with ebrake levers and points. Again, I use a dry/drying lube for that stuff.

Blow off that backing plate hospital clean, keep blowing air at all angles until NO MORE brake dust flys off anywhere. Then lube and check things.

The more your axle deep in water, the more often it needs to be checked.

 

Mine does the same shit, but only after I took the drums off and cleaned them with brake cleaner. One of the drums (the driver side) was covered in some kind of grease, so I know the shoes are toast but I don't have the money to have them replaced right now. Guess which side makes the squeak..

It's when it stops squeaking that I know this mystery grease has come back again. As long as it's still squeaking I know it's dry back there.

 

That random grease could be diff oil!

 

I frequently fill my drums wit water. I heard they cool better

 

Seriously, you guys mean the shims between the caliper pistons and the brake pads? 1/2" thick? I've never had to add anything to what already came attached to the brake pads and even that couldn't be more than 1/16" thick, if that.

 

It didn't smell like it, and it was way thicker and blacker. The axle housing is practically brand new (don't ask) but yeah, if it comes back, the dealership will have some splainin to do.

 

I really don't know, you'll have to wait for mod to come back

 

I'm thinking it's diff oil mixing with brake dust and whatever other goopy stuff you may drive through. What else could it be?

 

I don't have a clue. I cleaned it thoroughly and will check again in a while. Diff fluid level was fine.

 

Sorry everyone, I saw shims and said YES!

But it was actually my upper control arm shims. My wheel was twisting back and forth while driving, when I pressed the brake it would cause the wheel camber outward (pushing the front of the tire right and the back to the left)

 

Absolutely,,wait till they are scalding hot, then dunk em and hold em. Couple more beers and repeat! . One of the reasons I added that last line,,due to your sig pic,,lol. Your on the hurricane coast,,so you get a mulligan.


Caliper shims = pad pins, anti rattle spring, clips, anti squeal glue/stick on backing shims,,all that needed stuff to have quiet and politically correct brakes. But, to no avail it was something else. We try, and continue on.

 

Thanks for clarifying. I've just never heard all of that called caliper shims. But okay. I still don't understand a 1/2" shim either.

Or shims on a UCA. I just changed mine last month to Camburgs. There were no shims on the stocks or the camburgs. Bushings, yes. But that was it.

I'm not trying to be a hard-on about terminology. I'm just trying to understand clearly this thread's described problem and solution.