Rear e-locker

This is what i was thinking^

 

It's like 10 minutes to take an axle off.... Remove drive shaft, remove u bolts, remove brake lines, pull axle out.

 

LMAO... OK


Brakes lines in the NE salt belt can take a hour to remove alone and I'm not talking about re-flaring them if thats needed.

 

He has a new frame, we are not as blessed as him











i'm just teasin'

 

North Carolina is hardly a rust belt state.

 

First day I have you off ignore and you're going right back on... you have no clue

 

Why? You going to be street racing?

... and he would keep a much stronger unit all the way around. The cast iron girdle or whatever we call it ensures that there is very limited change in backlash under load. I would keep that 8.4 and get an ARB.

 

nah...old one is rusted and I don't trust anyone here resurfacing it (I was told I should resurface it but notsure). I still have some researching to do because I'm clueless on some of the tech.

 

But the arb runs about 4 times what I'll be paying

 

I would think twice about that swap. I have a 2007 FJ and I had blown 3 sets of R&P gears out of the 8" with e-locker. The last time it happened I bought a 8.2" axle assembly without locker and installed the ARB. Much stronger than that 8". In the long run you won't be saving any money for a locker if you have to replace the gears. I'm not sure about the 8.4" but the only difference on my swap was the sway bar mounts.

 

Well does anyone know of any where to pick up a arb for less than a grand?

 

I think I might agree.

 

I bought nib for something like 900. Just don't get a 3 pc.

 

Swap the axles its way cheaper and eaiser than an arb. Don't listen to the webwheelers you won't break the 8" wheeling if you are under 35s. I've been wheeling since 2005 with my trd and I've had a crawler since 2008 and zero problems. The elockers reliable and it flat works. I have seen more people dicking around with arb problems on the trail than elockers having problems.

 

I concur with your conclusion

everyone I know who blew one was on smaller tires than 35's

also hows that leaky actuator ? besides the gears being thinner Ive seen them fail due to water immersion.... and not on the web

 

Lol. ^^

I agree swapping axles is a pain when dealing with someone else's truck and your own truck. I would just do the arb route too unless I was picking up a elocker rear from the yard.

 

^^^^ Pride of ownership there. Its a good thing you can provide your expert advice to squelch the inexperienced web wheelers. It was certainly an anomaly that amin, myself and many others have 'blown' through 3 r&ps each. As a matter of fact, Toyota changed its elocker design so that they could limit the number of trucks that would have such an awesome rear end.

 

Exactly!





If the 8" rear was that good there wouldn't be dedicated threads to them blowing up on every major forum a year after the 2nd gens were produced. 11 pages of failures and 99% of them on smaller than 35" tires Gotta go...off to web wheel my truck some more

 

That's a problem the 1st gens don't seem to have and one of the many reasons that the fjc and the 2nd tacos are steaming turds. Its pride of ownership because it flat works, and has zero problems with 200:1 running though it.

Xxx what leaky actuator? I have done zero maintenance on this thing, no problems locks evreytime.