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Heater Broken

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by NOLA ItsNotOva, Aug 31, 2014.

  1. Sep 1, 2014 at 7:41 PM
    #21
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Cable doesnt move at all. I dont know if it is stripped or not. And yes the engine was warm
     
  2. Sep 1, 2014 at 7:45 PM
    #22
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Well, for the valve, I had to replace mine cause it leaked. NAPA carries them.
    Here is what they look like. You can also use a piece of copper pipe in it's place just to get the coolant flowing.

    [​IMG]

    You'll have to go in the dash for the cable. Good luck :)
     
  3. Sep 1, 2014 at 8:40 PM
    #23
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I was hoping you wouldnt say that lol. Might as well since I want to replace my head unit and I have to somewhat take it apart to put the new one in. Thanks!
     
  4. Sep 1, 2014 at 10:22 PM
    #24
    Mikeybuck

    Mikeybuck Well-Known Member

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    If you figure it out, post up what it was.
    In the mean time I'll be trying to figure out why my 03 Tacoma heater won't work.
     
  5. Sep 2, 2014 at 5:23 AM
    #25
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    I had a rare thought last night. You mentioned a recent coolant change. Normally during a coolant refill, the heater control is turned on so the coolant can circulate throughout the system. with your cable being broken, the mechanic was probably unaware and you may have an air bubble in the system. It could be as easy as burping it at the top. The cable is another issue.
     
  6. Sep 2, 2014 at 7:29 PM
    #26
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well, i dont know when it was changed. Was going to flush it not too long ago until I looked at it and even had a mechanic look at it. He said it was brand new so I didnt bother with doing anything to it. That could be a possibility as well.
     
  7. Sep 20, 2014 at 9:37 AM
    #27
    Mikeybuck

    Mikeybuck Well-Known Member

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    Any update?
     
  8. Sep 20, 2014 at 2:39 PM
    #28
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No sir. Been focusing on getting my front end fixed. Was in an accident last week and I was at fault with only liability so I'm trying to source parts I can get quickly and relatively cheaply. I have a little longer to work on the heater issue as it doesnt really get cold down here until mid November lol. I will surely update it if I do fix the issue. The valve is moveable but it doesnt do anything when I move it. The cable doesnt want to move either. So my assumtion is that its stuck somehow inside the dash and the valve is of course bad.
     
  9. Sep 20, 2014 at 8:38 PM
    #29
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    I have some more insight on this and a pic or two. My brothers truck did the same thing while we were out hunting. I'll get the pics up soon.

    Under the passenger side dash near the center console is a plastic gizmo that has a small electric motor that drives a set of gears to operate the blender door and the heater core valve simultaneously.

    There was something stuck in his gears and it worked after he freed it up. Of course in the process of diagnosing the problem he broke the plastic lever that operates the rest of it so he now reaches under the dash and flips it manually. It is fairly easy to remove the plastic gear/motor housing and free up the gears.
     
  10. Sep 20, 2014 at 8:41 PM
    #30
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'll give that a look tomorrow morning. Cause if thats the case, I'd still need to get the valve because I detached the cable and moved it manually but nothing happened
     
  11. Sep 20, 2014 at 8:50 PM
    #31
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Valve is probably fine. If the engine is running and the valve is open, you should be able to feel the hoses get hot before and the valve.

    The cable for the valve and for the blender door are both attached to that gear case thing I mentioned and it actually operates both the blender and the valve.

    Have a friend push and pull gently on the cable under the hood, careful not to kink it.
    Look under the dash and you'll see the other end moving.

    I'll get those pics up asap
     
  12. Sep 20, 2014 at 8:52 PM
    #32
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So those gears would cause the cable not to move at all? Cause I gotta force it to just move an eighth of an inch
     
  13. Sep 20, 2014 at 8:56 PM
    #33
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Yes.
     
  14. Sep 20, 2014 at 8:58 PM
    #34
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sweet, def gonna give this a look tomorrow. Cause the A/C will get too cold and theres no way for me to turn up the temp so I have to cut off the A/C until I get hot again and rinse and repeat lol
     
  15. Sep 20, 2014 at 9:11 PM
    #35
    Mikeybuck

    Mikeybuck Well-Known Member

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    I'll try that to. My cable won't move at all.
     
  16. Sep 20, 2014 at 9:23 PM
    #36
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    [​IMG]

    This is the gear box with the little motor. It's laying on the floor in this pic. The plastic white arm is what my brother broke off trying to force it. I just set it on there for pic purposes.

    The gears are inside, no pics of these. He actually took it apart and then drove to my camp from his camp for beers and showed me what he had done. I grabbed just the two pics hoping they would help.

    [​IMG]

    This is what it looks like with the gear box removed, the two screws showing are what I think was all that held it in place.

    I'm not exactly sure how it was attached to the linkage but you can figure it out when you pull it of. maybe take a pic for reference. :)

    On the left side of that pic you can see a cable in a sheath, that one goes under the hood and is what controls the coolant valve. the rest of that mechanical mess is for the blender door and whatever else it controls.

    Good luck.
     
  17. Sep 21, 2014 at 8:12 AM
    #37
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you sir!
     
  18. Sep 21, 2014 at 8:51 AM
    #38
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OK, so I wasnt able to get it off, however I did kind of shake it around and stuff. Put the heater on and it worked, not well like the A/C, but good enough. After a few minutes I switched it to the A/C and it started blowing out warm air as if the heater was on. What did I do wrong? :(
     
  19. Sep 21, 2014 at 2:02 PM
    #39
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    If it were me, I'd try to pull it off, clean the gears inside and re-install it. You may have to set the "timing" on the gear box and blender controls ....

    Like turn the heater knob on the dash to full hot, this should set the motor and control arm to the correct position.

    then manipulate the linkage down below to get hot air out of the ducts..

    after this I would assume the gear box and linkage would line up correctly.

    Best thing to do would be to turn your knob and watch the linkages and see what they are trying to do. You may have been able to free the gears up a little but it now sounds like things aren't getting their full range of mechanical motion. It's possible the electric motor is shot too, I really don't know from here, lol.

    Like I said, my brother actually took it apart, broke the arm in the process, said he found stuff in the gears but I never actually saw it myself or I would have posted a pic of that too. I doubt he will ever take the time to fix it right, that's kind of how he rolls, lol.
     
  20. Sep 21, 2014 at 2:06 PM
    #40
    NOLA ItsNotOva

    NOLA ItsNotOva [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well I let it set for a few hours and came back. Started the truck up and the A/C is now working, however not as cold as before. So I'm assuming that the linkage is stuck at a little above the where the cold mark would be on the temp knob. I'll try to fiddle with it some more to see if I can get it off. Took the screws off and tried pulling it down but I assume that the arm is keeping me from doing so.
     

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