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2.7L Compression Test Numbers

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by fdbyrne, Nov 18, 2014.

  1. Dec 15, 2014 at 7:14 AM
    #121
    MrRiverMan

    MrRiverMan Compulsive tinkerer

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    Seriously - make sure #1 at TDC, timing marks are lined up on back of cams, distributor is inserted so that it points to #1, then put in new plugs. It will probably start just fine at that point.

    I did the exact same thing - was sure I had everything lined up right, but the plugs had just taken a beating. I changed the plugs, and it's been running well for 15000 miles since.

    It's only $8 to try it - what have you got to lose at this point?
     
  2. Dec 15, 2014 at 5:31 PM
    #122
    fdbyrne

    fdbyrne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok. I'm back with an update and more confused than ever.

    I took everything back apart for examination. I measured all of my valve clearances and they are all within spec. Oddly the rear-most intake valve is still right at the very edge of spec (too tight). I will be ordering a replacement shim and increasing that gap back to mid-spec before closing this thing up. I doubt that it is causing my issues since the clearance is roughly what it was before I swapped the shim.

    I also discovered (thanks to additional light) that there is a mark on the crank pulley that does line up with the zero on the engine block when the engine is at TDC. When the engine is at TDC the mark on the pulley lines up with the block and the matchmarks on the cams also align.

    With all of those things still being in line I couldn't have too big of a problem. I've got to be missing something. I bought new plugs but haven't tried them yet because I want to replace the rearmost intake shim before closing everything up. It'll be a few more days before I can do that because I'm going to have to order the Toyota valve tool. The Kawasaki one that I bought isn't going to work (surprise).

    I did find a before picture of my cams to compare to the after. I'll post below. The before was taken right after I first pulled the valve cover off and before I messed with anything. The after was taken just a few minutes ago.

    Cams Before.jpg
    Cams After 1.jpg
     
  3. Dec 15, 2014 at 6:39 PM
    #123
    97TacoNM

    97TacoNM Riding a 97 Taco

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    You see that the intake and exhaust lobes are in different positions after than before, right? If that matters...
     
  4. Dec 15, 2014 at 6:43 PM
    #124
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

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    If I remember right, that tool might work on the back intake, but it wouldn't work on the exhaust at all, mine that I bought was, http://www.amazon.com/Schley-Products-88250-Toyota-Adjusting/dp/B0014DF1AG, except I bought it from "Tool Topia",,, don't matter it still wouldn't work on most of the valves plus it was a pain in the butt to manipulate it.
    The Kawasaki valve tool I bought because I couldn't find the Honda tool was, http://www.bikebandit.com/manuals-t...feed&utm_medium=merchantfeed&utm_campaign=pla
    BUT like I said you have to modify the bend in it to resemble the Honda tool and you need to use the the other half of the tool that comes with the Schley pliers, it looks like a "foot", that holds the bucket down.
    Way easier than those pliers.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 19, 2016
  5. Dec 15, 2014 at 7:15 PM
    #125
    knuckleduster271

    knuckleduster271 Well-Known Member

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    Dont just go by the marks on the crank pulley, put something in cyl #1 and make sure its on tdc at the very top. I have the tool to adjust the valves, im pretty sure it works with the back ones as well, its made by matco iirc. I can loan it to you, prob cost me $2-3 to ship it to you- i have two but I still want it back- make damn sure I get it back- if you need it Ill send it out to you priority in the morning but like I said-I want it back and the shipping charges for sending it to you also.
     
  6. Dec 15, 2014 at 7:17 PM
    #126
    knuckleduster271

    knuckleduster271 Well-Known Member

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    It looks just like the schley tool in the link above.
     
  7. Dec 15, 2014 at 7:58 PM
    #127
    fdbyrne

    fdbyrne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I forgot to say that I also had a dowel riding up and down in cylinder number one while I was hand cranking the engine. In addition to all of the before-mentioned marks lining up, the dowel was at the top of it's stroke too.

    Kunckleduster, that's a very generous offer to loan me your tool. I'll gladly take you up on that. I'll send you a private message with my info. Thanks for all the help.
     
  8. Dec 15, 2014 at 8:05 PM
    #128
    fdbyrne

    fdbyrne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    97TacoNM,

    You're right, they are in different positions but that's only because the first one was taken a few weeks ago right when I pulled the valve cover. I didn't set it to TDC before taking the picture. The second one is many hand-cranks later and set to TDC.
     
  9. Dec 15, 2014 at 8:57 PM
    #129
    knuckleduster271

    knuckleduster271 Well-Known Member

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    Ill get it out tomorrow
     
  10. Apr 18, 2016 at 8:41 AM
    #130
    SOMDTACO

    SOMDTACO Well-Known Member

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    Any final Resolution on this? I recently bought a 96 2.7 4x4 and am planning on going in and measuring valve clearances. I'd be a lot more confident knowing you actually got the truck to start and run properly again haha.
     
  11. Apr 19, 2016 at 5:29 AM
    #131
    MrRiverMan

    MrRiverMan Compulsive tinkerer

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    Not sure what happened with the original poster here, but I did the job on my '96 2.7 4x4, and eventually got it to start and have been driving it for 2 years since.

    I recommend finding TDC with a dowel in #1 before you pull anything else apart, then marking it with a paint pen on the crank pulley.
     
  12. Apr 19, 2016 at 11:07 AM
    #132
    SOMDTACO

    SOMDTACO Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the reply. What's the for sure way to tell that you are at TDC on the compression stroke rather than the exhaust stroke? I guess you could tell by the valve line up? I know everyone says to look at the dots on the back of the camshaft gears, but there has to be a more reliable way.
     
  13. Apr 19, 2016 at 6:14 PM
    #133
    MrRiverMan

    MrRiverMan Compulsive tinkerer

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    The dots on the back of the camshaft gears is what I used.

    If your truck is running, those will be aligned at TDC on the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke. If they weren't lined up right, your truck wouldn't run. So they're pretty reliable.
     
  14. Jul 22, 2023 at 7:37 PM
    #134
    Tacomaqueen

    Tacomaqueen Member

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    Same motor 2.7 tacoma mechanic said compression was low 2 at 40 and 2 at 60, I think my mechanic just lied this all started will a hard start.
    Lots of parts changed!! And when it cranks its slow to start off but will do 80mph no problems not running hot no mixing of oil and water not smoking.
    I would think if the compression was that low I couldn't do 80mph. I would have something more to show a code, or something. Had one code for the 2nd air injection pump and we changed it.
    Could this be the coil pack or spark plugs??
     

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