Need help with shudder/vibration

So I have been fight this shudder/ vibe for a while replace carrier bearing and dropped carrier 1-1/2 and still get a shudder almost like snow in the tires at 30 and 50 and then it vibrates bad after 65 and up had tires balanced and rechecked 2 times also moved tires around and no diff ....I'm at my whits end with this any other ideas what to check or do I have billstien 5100 lift in front with block in rear. PleSe advice will be much appreciated. . Thanks TW!!

 

How high of lift?
You might need one of these?
I was going through CBs also.
My lift shortened the DL so I purchased one of these spacers. 1.5"
Got my DL back in place, CB back and centered

 

3 inch lift . I also have tried diff amount of drops

 

Only thing I haven't tried is to run no carrier drop and flip the carrier bearing, I tried flipping it with diff amounts of drop but not with no drop, i also have another set of rear lift blocks the are degreed 3* degrees that I might try. It's just weird Tru k was comp fine then I did lift and got alignment and tires balanced and it's don't it since the moment I pulled out of the garage and drove it, moving the carrier bearing seems to just change how much or WHT speed it shudders or vibrates at, and it doesn't change at all when in 4wd it's def in the rear end and drive line I'm just confused on what to do all u joints are greased and working and in good shape truck only has 70k on it too.....

 

Have you replaced your u joints? Specifically the one in front of the rear diff?
I had pretty much the same symptoms as you with a low mile truck after I lifted the rear... it wasn't but about six weeks after my rear u joint was shot.

 

I checked it and it functions and feels tight and smooth ..... and I checked it with the drive shaft unhooked. And truck was comp fine when I drove it in and after I drove out after the install I have had this issue ever since and have tried multiple things ....how many people are lifted and not running a carrier drop at all? Seems like some things work and some don't for people doesn't me sense

 

it all depends on the drop, each drop is different so maybe you need a bigger carrier drop or less of a carrier drop but you need to do the calculations so the angle of the rear end matches the angle of the tranny so it doesn't bind the u-joints and make the truck vibrate

you might get lucky but in most cases you cant just drop in a standard spacer used for all trucks because in reality one doesn't really exist even though thousand are driving with something that is "close enough" because they didn't do the calculations to get the correct one.

to lift your truck and maintain the proper drivetrain operation, you should calculate your drivetrain angles and use the correct sized spacer that the calculations say you need.

 

Those blocks though.

 

yep, when people do this I wish they would think to paint them and the u-bolts black so it doesn't stand out, why make a turd more visable.

 

Might just say screw it and put in a 1 peice drive shaft and be done with the problems of the crappie design

 

Find yourself some steal 2.5degree axle shims and put everything else back to stock.

 

Not a bad idea.....

Yeah, any time I have ever used blocks I was sure to use angled ones to eliminate any possible vibration issues....

 

Also at 50 when it begins to shudder or shake if I hold 50 mph and hold brake on it makes the shudder and Vibration way worse .....???

 

that sounds like u-joints, bearings, or loose front end because if it were brakes it would only vibrate when braking

 

angled blocks are "almost" NEVER the right angle (unless you are one in a thousand to get that lucky) and often you are only just "close enough" not to have "major" vibrations. even with angled blocks you need to calculate your angles and add the correct shims in addition to the blocks angle so it will not vibrate. sometimes the angled blocks are angled too much or not enough so you have to do your calculations so you aren't wearing out u-joints and stressing other parts too much.

 

Your truck a 4x4? Try removing the rear driveshaft completely and running around town and on the freeway at various speeds in 4H. That should tell you if it's in the driveshaft or tires/something else.

 

I very much agree......but it will always be better than nothing at all.

 

yep, they are designed to get you "close" so you don't need to add huge shims and I posted that mainly as a "heads up" to others so they don't assume the angled blocks are all they need. a lot of people are lazy and look to take short cuts assuming things like that so I just felt the need to put that info out there.

 

I was pointing out the driveline spacer.
Blocks, Spock, who cares. I will get there. Other stuff takes precedent... LOL

 

The driveline tech that I went to told me Tacomas are KNOWN for having CRAP drivelines...