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Help removing front diff

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by StAndrew, Nov 22, 2014.

  1. Nov 22, 2014 at 6:13 PM
    #1
    StAndrew

    StAndrew [OP] Wait for it...

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    Chris
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    Intake, exhaust, lift. Typical stuff.
    Can't get the drive shaft off. Need some suggestions/help!
     
  2. Nov 22, 2014 at 7:53 PM
    #2
    mrbeggins

    mrbeggins LOW.LIGHT.WIDE

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    It's 8 bolts lol. Pretty straight forward...
     
  3. Nov 22, 2014 at 7:54 PM
    #3
    BMOC

    BMOC Well-Known Member

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    lefty loosey
     
  4. Nov 22, 2014 at 8:07 PM
    #4
    Ghost848

    Ghost848 Well-Known Member

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    Remove bolts and pit down ur purse:)
     
  5. Nov 23, 2014 at 6:47 AM
    #5
    StAndrew

    StAndrew [OP] Wait for it...

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    Intake, exhaust, lift. Typical stuff.
    I can't get a socket seated on the four bolts that connect to the diff. I was bending my breaker bar and started to strip the bolt (used some liquid wrench well before attempting)... Ill work on it more later this week I guess just wondering if there was a trick to this.
     
  6. Nov 23, 2014 at 7:43 AM
    #6
    wolfgang123

    wolfgang123 Well-Known Member

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    swivel sockets
     
  7. Nov 23, 2014 at 7:53 AM
    #7
    Mod

    Mod Well-Known Member

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    Flame wrench Chris,,try to tighten them a bit after the heat,,then reverse to back them off for removal.


    Sounds like a box end wrench job(with helper pipe), until one end or the other is off. Then you should be able to position the drive shaft to get a socket with impact wobbly on there,,then clicking on your impact tool of choice on there. If it goes that far.
     
  8. Nov 23, 2014 at 4:24 PM
    #8
    StAndrew

    StAndrew [OP] Wait for it...

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    Intake, exhaust, lift. Typical stuff.
    Thanks, Ill give it a try. Could use some air tools...
     
  9. Nov 24, 2014 at 2:02 PM
    #9
    StAndrew

    StAndrew [OP] Wait for it...

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    So used a 3/8" drive socket and it fit snugly over the bolt. Used a swivel adapter for the breaker and it was pretty easy after that. I was just worried as the 1/2" drive socket wasn't able to sit snug and I started stripping a bolt.
     
  10. Nov 24, 2014 at 10:05 PM
    #10
    Mod

    Mod Well-Known Member

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    If you knarled those hex's up,,grab some new bolts. Those need to remain tight when you get them back on, and be trail serviceable. So don't skimp on that hardware.

    Ya,,stop and select a better socket if it is a tight fit in the work area. By better I mean the inner drive hex portion. I have some old NASA metric Blue Point impacts that I just cannot seem to sweat a bit. Extra thin wall shorties that are made out of unobtanium.:p
     
  11. Nov 25, 2014 at 8:49 AM
    #11
    StAndrew

    StAndrew [OP] Wait for it...

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    Intake, exhaust, lift. Typical stuff.
    Bolts are good. I stopped the second they showed signs of stripping and posted here.
     
  12. Nov 25, 2014 at 9:51 AM
    #12
    Mod

    Mod Well-Known Member

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    Cool.
     
  13. Nov 26, 2014 at 7:14 AM
    #13
    Arctic Taco

    Arctic Taco Firefly, Serenity Ed. -Arctic Taco, a slow build

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    dents and missing bits Gravel garage, hillbilly trained mechanic…
    Be sure to mark the them prior to removal the yokes that is. It can help reduce/eliminate driveline vibration
     
  14. Nov 26, 2014 at 7:37 AM
    #14
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    All of my experience has been on rear drive shafts. so I'm not certain if this applies :

    Because of the trouble with getting a socket on these things, I've always used an extra-long box-end wrench. I use a regular 'shorty' to hold the bolt head, and the extra-long to position properly and apply the torque to the nut.
     

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