SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

I wasn't going to respond to my dielectric grease answer however now that I've had a chance to think about it it pisses me off that someone would come up with that answer.... I used to super chill CPUs and we would smother the whole CPU and all the pins in dielectric grease to keep the moisture from collecting because of the super chill.... when you give an answer make sure you have the right information, just saying

 

Why are you pissed if you asked the question... Sorry your sentence made my brain hurt.

In other news, yes, I've used dielectric grease when super cooling CPU's as well. We'd pour liquid N into a metal cup that was pasted to the CPU with ArcticSilver and the rest of the nearby board/under the CPU we'd put dielectric grease. Good times. We had an old Athalon up past 4.0 Ghz before people thought that shit was normal. It lasted about 2 minutes .

 

OK, stopped by and had a nice long chat with our mechanic. He was about to try the circuit opening relay this morning. He asked me to run home and grab our old coil packs, wanting to check something. When I got back, he had just shut it off and had the hood down, letting it heat soak. He'd just plugged in the donor COR, and also just because it hadn't been done yet, he'd totally disconnected all AFR gauge wiring. Oh yeah, and at my request, he'd added a temporary ground wire just for the hell of it. And the point of the story is - he said usually during the heat soak periods, the fuel pressure drops way down on the fuel pressure gauge he has hooked up and once it's low enough, that's when the excessive cranking occurs. But this time, he said it seemed like it was taking longer than usual for the pressure to drop. I can't help it - I'm hopeful, even a bit excited, thinking maybe it's been that COR all along. Doesn't make sense why that would work OK before engine swap but not after, but that COR crap goes along with the starter signal circuit and the fuel pump control circuit stuff and those are the 2 top items to check per FSM when hot start issues occur. Cross fingers for us TW!!!!!!!! Made the mechanic promise to call the second he fixed it, let him know we'd be down there in 5 minutes with champagne. Oh yeah, he also said he noticed two of the back corner valve covers are leaking oil. Said that should not be happening with a new engine. Oh goody, I wonder what else they f'ed up in there. Hearing that made me want to drive it to the nearest car dealer and trade it and be done. But still, with all these different variables, I can't help but hope/wonder if the COR could be the thing, then if it was, perhaps we could have the other stuff addressed by this mechanic too. Anyway. That's where we're at, thanks for reading all!

 

Fuel pressure shouldn't just drop in a short period of time. Sounds like a leaking fuel injector(s) pissing fuel into cylinder(s) causing the rough start.

 

wow this thread has everything but the kitchen sink (thats coming next probably im sure)

I don't know how the hell we got completely out of automotive talk altogether and into talk of fixing PC computers and CPU cooling is a mystery for sure

I will pray for you guys to finally have a resolution, one way or the other.

did anyone happen to notice that this thread is #3 overall for the most posts in the first gen section? #1 is the "what have you done to your Tacoma" thread and #2 is the 5100 bilstein gallery pictures thread and this thread stands at #3 on the list just 300 posts behind the bilstein thread. its also near the bottom of the top 30 of the most viewed threads ever in the first gen section. that's pretty impressive stats.

 

That's a lot a visits. TW should be kicking back some freebies for all the attention to adds that this thread has brought. Should at least front us regulars to the thread a couple of decals. Hint, hint, Mods.

Alas, your comment does remind me how much time I've spent on this thread. Not happy about that. I'm sure it is much more stressful to Jen and Eric.

 

Just to followup, I didn't do the nitrogen superfreeze, I actually superchilled the CPU on a day to day basis with a refrigerator compressor kit, ran like a regular computer but just super fast, dialectric grease enclosure for the CPU area...not as high a clock as superchilling, but a very high clock for the day, way beyond what was available back then...no need for it now...

I edited my initial answer, it was posted with my smart phone, and I have large fingers, my apologies for the unpunctuated prose..

Praying this mechanic can solve your ongoing problem

 

tell me about it, this forum is gonna be boring after she gets it fixed, because after this soap opera we are all addicted to has ended, then what will we look forward to every day.

 

Ha! You guys are so funny! Sadly, I kind of know what you mean though - we've been forced to allow this Taco problem to become our daily lives for months now, so it will be strange when it's not an issue anymore - like, what now?

That said, don't worry TW - I will struggle through and somehow find a way to cope with the difficulties that may be created when the Taco issues are resolved!!!

 

For real guys!! I think they should be approaching some of us "main" characters with offers to star in a miniseries.........

It is stressful, for sure. But you guys make it better! Thanks TW!

 

We have been using dielectric grease for years and years, and it has never caused any problems that I have ever seen. If you don't want to use it, no skin off my back. Just saying that it is a commonly used product with all manufacturers, and in many applications where you want to keep the contacts from corrosion. Do you know what the major cause of corrosion is? Two metals contacting each other with humidity or moisture between them, going through repetitive temperature changes. Where do you find that most often? Under the hood of a car or truck. Dielectric grease keeps the humidity away. But what do I know? I've only been in the industry for 30 years, and been an instructor for GM.

 

lol. I know that some engines can get pulled out pretty quick, but I would LOVE to be able to pull a Toyota engine in 2 hours. Of course I had the record at the Cadillac dealer of having a 4T80E transmission on the ground in 30 minutes! Maybe there is a guy who can pull a 3.4 in 2 hours? Who knows? If so, I'd like to hire him so that I can make a lot of money!

 

Ok, is not that I don't use it, I just don't put it on the metal contacts, I use a contact cleaner/protector for the pins (Deoxit), and then the grease for the connector around the pins. That's all.
What get all bend over backwards when I'm only suggesting using the right product for the job. A contact cleaner prospector for the metal and the grease for the rest of the connector.
With all due respect,
But your "Argument from Authority" is not a generally reliable argument for establishing facts.
Neither is the "Argument by personal Experience" from the other member
both logical fallacies.

• Why not present the TDS from the manufacturer stating the correct usage of their product? Even Permatex is ambiguous on their TDS regarding the use of their product. Is it because they have not tested it for that purpose?

FROM TDS


PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Permatex
Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is a silicone dielectric
compound whose dielectric and lubricitous properties facilitate
and improve tune-ups. The compound prevents voltage
leakage around any electrical connector thereby insuring a
strong spark in high energy automotive ignition systems. The
compound is an excellent lubricant on rubber, plastic and
ceramic surfaces and it also has good high temperature
properties, thus preventing fusing of spark plug boots to the
spark plug. It will make installation of the boots easier.


DIRECTIONS FOR USE
For spark plug boots
1. Make sure ignition system is off.
2. Remove heavy grease, dirt or oil with a clean rag.
3. Coat inside of spark plug boot with a thin layer of
grease.
4. Coat ceramic part of plug.
5. Snap boot onto plug. Make sure fit is tight.


Notice that it does not say on metal contacts on the spark plug or wire. but only Rubber and ceramic. Notice that the product description does not even mention sealing electrical connectors.why? Why would they not tap into this market?


The TDS does mention this.


For connectors and battery terminals
1. Make sure the ignition system is off.
2. Clean surfaces with appropriate cleaner such as
Permatex Brake and Parts Cleaner or Battery Cleaner.
3. Coat both parts with grease.
4. Reassemble.



It does not specify if the metal should be coated too. should it? if so, why this metal and not the spark plug wires and spark plug metal?


http://www.permatex.com/resources/tds?view=tds


cheers.

 

Dieletic grease thread jack!!!!!!

 

JK. Actually, I'm just grateful that the thread is still alive! It's nice to receive ongoing input from TW on all things Taco related - the old Taco and the potential new Taco.

Well, it's Monday morning. Starting to doubt the possibility of the fix being the donor COR, the added ground wire, or the total disabling of all AFR gauge wiring. Oh yeah, and I think he said he plugged a line to the charcoal canister that day also, and I think he felt it would prove it's function if no change during typical bad hot start while that line was plugged. No news after trying any of those 4 things = discouraging, very discouraging. I doubt any amount of dielectic grease will change that.

Guess we'll continue online Taco shopping for now, and keep hoping for some news. We had a nice long chat with old army mechanic neighbor and his wife this weekend. They need a new tranny in their Explorer. Bummer. Anyway, after complaining about vehicle woes to each other, they suggested a 4 runner and trailer for us. Hmmm. Hadn't thought about that. It would actually work quite well. Plenty of space for a trailer, and I imagine it's something you could mostly build yourself, to keep the cost down. Just something basic to haul occasional loads of lumber, bags of concrete, gravel, etc. Then the big upside of that over a Taco is no more nasty feeling when you go to put suitcase in the Taco bed after finishing a weekend project that ended with a trip to the dump with old, rotting 2 x 4's or something equally gross. Sure, you can hose it out, even wash it properly, but the convenience of not having to do that? That'd be cool. Or playing that game in your mind of "how nasty was the last thing in here, does it need to be washed before I load groceries in the bed" - yeah, not doing that game would be sweet. You'd have a clean, enclosed place for all your "inside" stuff, then the yucky building/outdoor materials go in the trailer, and it can get nasty all it wants, no problem. Plus, our topper for the Taco is a real piece. It fits, but it was red when we bought it 10 years ago, so my husband did a real half assed job of trying to quickly paint it black to match the truck. Half assed paint job, followed by 10 years of the elements slowly chipping away at the paint = looks like complete hell. And since we don't have a garage, the topper stays outside, then when we go on a trip, he picks it up and puts in on by himself - scrapes the piss outta the paint on the truck, every time. Would be nice to not watch him hassle with that anymore and not watch the truck's paint job get slowly destroyed. Mostly though, it's just nice to think that set up could work for us, because that opens up a LOT of additional choices while searching for another vehicle. Lots of older 4 Runners out there, plus in general they seem cheaper than Tacos. Then I even thought, what if we could find a '98 4 Runner in good shape with reasonable amount of miles for cheap, then we could try dinking around with swapping parts between the two all summer long to see if we can figure it out? Plus have another working vehicle at the same time, without taking on an insane payment. Although that could easily turn into driving ourselves insane, and being stuck with now not one, but two older, high miles vehicles. Hmmm, maybe not the best plan. But great in theory anyway. Or I wonder when they changed the 4 Runners, to where parts off of one would no longer be compatible with a '98 Taco? Aren't they virtually identical up to a certain point? I would think a 4 Runner would handle just as well for narrow windy crap roads as a Taco would, right? They have that nice skinny frame to them, and 4WD right? Same V6 engines, right?

 

If you want to import a 4Runner from Alberta I could sell you a 2001 Limited with the ONLY issue being a minor dent on the rear pillar. It has 120,000 km, about 75,000 miles. My inlaws best friend is selling it, they need a new F150 . They are asking $13,000 but I'm sure they'd go somewhere around $10,000. With the exchange rate that's only about $8,000 USD. Then it's just some paperwork, a flight, and drive it home for maybe another $1,000.

 

https://youtu.be/Pr-D-qX27jg

 

And, no. I can't send you one to try out

 

ha ha ha!

You could just ram one into one of those annoying little flat rate USPS boxes, right?

That trailer is very cool, I'm showing that to Eric!



What does everyone think, should I buy a Canadian 4 Runner????? Sounds pretty good, right?

 

very nice looking trailer, did you make it or were you just putting up a link?

I took an old flatboat trailer I bought for $100 and added treated 2x12 all around and made one very similar but it was 4x7 so I could haul my lawn mower around.

if you made the trailer, or just bought it, I would suggest you add a small hand winch on the tongue and a roller on the front top rail for when you need to pull or drag something heavy into the trailer such as landscaping rocks or hauling junk away or even dragging a non running lawn mower on the trailer to bring it somewhere. every trailer needs a small winch on it "just in case" you need it