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Help me diagnose my steering issue!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by AK Taco, Dec 14, 2014.

  1. Dec 14, 2014 at 5:44 PM
    #21
    AK Taco

    AK Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    matt
    Anchorage, Ak
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    chrome-free '99 sr5
    20% tint on all windows, Deckplate mod, satoshi-ish grille, blacked out and/or body matched emblems, rattle canned rims, red l.e.d. interior lights, bilstein 5100's and OME 881 coils , deaver 8 leaf pack, 1.5" lift shackle, alpine sound system, 55w HID lightforce 140 and 170 fogs
    I pulled mine out since it's super easy to do and I have the old roller style. So I'm thinking I might replace it with the solid newer one.
     
  2. Dec 14, 2014 at 6:36 PM
    #22
    AK Taco

    AK Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    20% tint on all windows, Deckplate mod, satoshi-ish grille, blacked out and/or body matched emblems, rattle canned rims, red l.e.d. interior lights, bilstein 5100's and OME 881 coils , deaver 8 leaf pack, 1.5" lift shackle, alpine sound system, 55w HID lightforce 140 and 170 fogs
    Here's the play in the guide.. seems like that could be an issue.

     
  3. Dec 14, 2014 at 7:22 PM
    #23
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Your vid shows the typical play from a worn rack guide, be it the roller or the newer style. As you found out you have the roller, also denoted by the external hex head "pre-load adjuster" as seen in the vid. The newer type, seen in the previous pics lasts significantly longer but the upgrade will additionally require the new style "adjuster". It's identified by an internal hex socket, looks like a giant Allen socket. Tell the dealer it's an 04 or you may end up with the old parts.
    All good? Maybe maybe not. The rack shaft is restrained from flopping around at will by a single bushing at the passenger side. The driver side is kept in compliance by the rack guide pressing the rack shaft teeth against the pinion gear teeth and the U shape of the guide itself. Then the whole thing pivots on the centrally located divider piston. Most of the time satisfactory results can be achieved by a simple upgrade/replacement of the guide. But there is more and your mileage (assuming original rack) is a flag. Have heart, all is not lost.
    The real deal breaker here is the condition of the rest of the rack. Does the rack seem to preform well other than the play? Pull back both boots and check for fluid leakage and physical damage to the rack shaft. Rust pitting from water intrusion is the primary cause of seal failure here. Zip ties in place of the OEM clamps are a huge no no. You will not be able to see any of the shaft "swept" by the seal on the driver side but evidence of water will still deserve further investigation.

    You have seen the driver side. Here is a shot of the pass side bushing that may or may not contribute to the problem. It can also be changed along with the pass side "rack end seal" on the truck in short order. Edit, just the bushing not the seal.

    Pass side seal/bushing carrier, called the "rack end stopper" by Toyota.
    ITRandBUSHrs4_zpsc8553474_bc8a7fc57999214c248f147348d3152a9203b97c.jpg
    ITRandBUSHrs2_zps679ca33d_372d39fba91340d745b1b5ae555c1abd71b35929.jpg

    Here is a write up with all the internal goodies of the rack. There is a ton of implied stuff so ask if something is not clear. Keep in mind that a rack and it's illness should be divided into 2 parts. The rack shaft, guide and it's seals are pretty straight forward while the "control valve" (the vertical housing where the steering connects) gets more involved.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...rack-pinion-service-tools-tips-dry-wordy.html


    So, the shaft is all pitted and you want to replace the whole shooting match. The choices are OEM new, junkyard, rebuilt or aftermarket "new".
    OEM new is always the best bet but also the most $$, around $500 form an online vendor. Another edit, Make that $548 from Camelback Toyota. There are/were factory rebuilds but I have no first hand experience there. Next best and actually the least $$ is a lightly used salvage yard rack but make sure it is the later version with an "inney" adjuster. Last is a rebuild or a "new" after market. These tend to be hit and miss with all brands. The problem is they ALL use questionable Chinese knock off parts. The "new" ones are made up entirely of knock off parts.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2014
  4. Dec 14, 2014 at 8:30 PM
    #24
    AK Taco

    AK Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    chrome-free '99 sr5
    20% tint on all windows, Deckplate mod, satoshi-ish grille, blacked out and/or body matched emblems, rattle canned rims, red l.e.d. interior lights, bilstein 5100's and OME 881 coils , deaver 8 leaf pack, 1.5" lift shackle, alpine sound system, 55w HID lightforce 140 and 170 fogs
    When I did the inner tie rods I did not see lots of fluid or anything that would imply leaky seals. There was a very very small amount, but nothing major at all. Both boots are crack, tear, and hole free as well. The shaft seemed to be in good condition and I didn't see any pitting or rust, althoughI didn't really look at it too in depth.

    With that said, should I start by replacing the guide and seeing if that helps? Or should I tear into the rack anyways and see if the bushing is shot? Or is there a way for me to inspect the bushing without pulling the rack apart?

    I appreciate the super in depth post, tons of great info :thumbsup:
     
  5. Dec 15, 2014 at 12:36 AM
    #25
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    Hmmmm. This is pretty much exactly what I've been dealing with since I bought my truck. But all the shops that have had my truck said the rack was fine. I'll have to look into it more I guess.
     
  6. Dec 15, 2014 at 12:44 AM
    #26
    AK Taco

    AK Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

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    chrome-free '99 sr5
    20% tint on all windows, Deckplate mod, satoshi-ish grille, blacked out and/or body matched emblems, rattle canned rims, red l.e.d. interior lights, bilstein 5100's and OME 881 coils , deaver 8 leaf pack, 1.5" lift shackle, alpine sound system, 55w HID lightforce 140 and 170 fogs
    Definitely pull the rack boots and see if you can see any play. As you can see in my last video, it was pretty obvious the guide was worn on my rack.
     
  7. Dec 15, 2014 at 9:25 AM
    #27
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    I was going to suggest starting with the guide and cap if there are no other issues, it's the primary offender. It's certainly one way to go and a route many take. In the end it's going to be your call based on the big picture for your situation.
    Just the guide will dramatically reduce the play. The bushing on the pass side can be replaced on the truck. Remove the ITR and unscrew the "end stopper". The bushing just pops in/out of the stopper. See the 2 pics in post #23. The only issue is the bushing is only available as part of the complete seal kit and Toyota wants $100 for it. I have twice used an after market seal kit, "Gates" brand, $35-$40. I couldn't tell any difference from the OEM.

    Error in post #23, just the pass side bushing not the seal can be changed on the truck.
     
  8. Dec 15, 2014 at 1:03 PM
    #28
    AK Taco

    AK Taco [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    5,047
    Gender:
    Male
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    matt
    Anchorage, Ak
    Vehicle:
    chrome-free '99 sr5
    20% tint on all windows, Deckplate mod, satoshi-ish grille, blacked out and/or body matched emblems, rattle canned rims, red l.e.d. interior lights, bilstein 5100's and OME 881 coils , deaver 8 leaf pack, 1.5" lift shackle, alpine sound system, 55w HID lightforce 140 and 170 fogs
    Awesome. Sounds like I'm gonna start with the guide and go from there. $60 is a lot better than $550 haha
     
  9. Sep 13, 2023 at 10:38 AM
    #29
    18rabbit

    18rabbit Fenix Off Grid Solutions

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    Nice guys! I am grateful for this thread. I have that same sloppy movement internal to my rack and I'm now inclined to replace that guide, even though I have the newer style. Potentially put in some new seals on the end of the rack too! Looks like it could be done without removing the rack eh?
     

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