Help installing fuel pump 96 yota 4banger

Need some guidance. On installing new fuel pump on my 96 taco with the 4cyl and tricks and tips u fellas can fill me in on the replacement. Of my old pump would be great .....thanks alot

 

Run it almost out of fuel, have a set of helping hands is always best because even almost empty theres still 5+ gallons of gas sloshing aroun, undo the filler neck and vent hose. A floor jack works good when dropping the tank. Unhook the straps holding the tank in place, drop the tank down a few inches and unplug the connector- set tank on the ground, use a 10 mm socket on a 1/4 drive ratchet to remove the 10 small bolts holding the assembly to the tank, pull assembly out- unhook the connector to the pump itself, unclamp it from the housing/sending unit, put new pump in, plug connector in (sometimes with universal pumps you have to splice a new connector pigtail on but not always) reverse the rest of the steps. Sometimes it can be a real pita getting the holding straps to line back up, I usually use a ratchet strap on each end of the tank to get it in place so they line up easily.

 

some times its easier just to lift the bed, remove all the nuts on the fuel tank side and loosen them on the other side. Undo the filler hose from the bed and lift the tank side of the bed up hi enough to access the sending unit. Prop bed up securely and remove/replace pump and reverse steps on the bed. Make sure the bed is properly aligned with the cab and tighten it down.

 

yes, this ^^^^^^

its 100 times easier and so much better then trying to crawl around under the truck fighting with clearance issues and always needing extra help to do everything, pull off the bed and you save yourself hours of unnecessary work dropping the tank and taking everything apart

 

Hours? 100x easier? Not hardly...
I can do a fuel pump in less than two hours on almost anything.
Lining the bed up straight can be a pain all in itself and most likely you would need help with moving the be anyways..
Ive done it both ways and it always seemed faster to just drop the tank (2 pins with cotter keys) vs 6 bolts. The only way I would consider lifting the bed is if the tank was full.
Its 10x easier to work on when its on the floor in front of you- that way you can see if the tank needs flushed out much less trying to remove a foot long part out from under a bed thats lifted up a few inches. You also run the risk of dirt and debri falling in the tank by doing it under the bed. The harness and lines have a ton of slack- if you drop the tank you can reach the lines and harness no problem. Ive seen people fight with trying to unhook a fuel line or harness for hours alone trying to work under limited space.

 

In Portland ME, on a 96?
Your best bet is going to involve checking out the fasteners involved with both methods. Rust will likely be the determining factor on your choice. Take a good look at the tank straps and any fasteners on the tank. Get your head in the wheel well and try to get eyes on the pump/sending unit mount plate. It's secured to the tank with a handful of 8mm screws that like to rust into little nubs and/or snap off. You may end up wanting to drop the tank anyway for further PM or dealing with rust issues. Then on the other hand, everything involved could be a rust nightmare including the bed bolts.

Rust issues aside, both methods will have their merits. FWIW it took 20 minutes to get my tank "on the bench" by my self. This provides for gentlemanly internal/external inspection along with some spot wire brush/painting action and general clean up.
I would spend the $100 or so for an OEM Aisin pump kit from some place like Rock Auto, as the cheapo aftermarket pumps have a poor reliability record.

 

Never had to do the fuel pump but I'd have no problem at all cutting an access hole in bed over pump location if applicable...very easy to flange it & seal back into place, but thats the tin knocker in me talking, still betting easier/quicker than removing bed or dropping tank..