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Newbie Questions

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Bridger7, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:00 PM
    #1
    Bridger7

    Bridger7 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2015
    Member:
    #146057
    Messages:
    4
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    Male
    Maine
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tacoma Doublecab SR5, V6
    Hi- I just got my first tacoma in August and I'm having some vibration while driving. If anyone can give me some pointers for troubleshooting this I would greatly appreciate it! I'll list some info on the truck and what I've done.

    2002 Doublecab, SR5, V6, Auto transmission, 4WD

    85K Miles

    Stock suspension and stock throughout

    New 265 70 16 Grabber A/T 2

    New Rear Shocks- Monroe

    Frame was treated/sprayed in 2009 and looks to be in good condition with only some surface rust

    When I bought the truck it had 80k miles on it. The previous owner only drove the car about 1500 miles in the last 2 years before I bought it. They bought the truck with 69k in 2009 and only made it to 80k by August of 2014. It sat a lot, outside in the elements, in a coastal Maine location.

    I recently drained and filled the front and rear differentials (mobil 1) and transmission ( MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF) and engine oil (mobil 1). There are no visible fluid leaks anywhere that I have seen.

    A few weeks ago the truck started shaking / vibrating at over 50mph. It didn't happen every time I drove and seemed to be dependent on the amount of time I drove. My commute is about 20min and it doesn't always do it. One the vibration / shake starts, if I hit the brakes they pulse really, really bad and I feel like I have a lot of play in the steering. Once I come to a complete stop and start driving again the vibration is gone and I don't feel any pulse in the brakes until I get up to around 50. While this is happening I don't notice and difference in the engine power. I also don't hear anything different or anything that sounds out of place.

    It has been doing this for about 3 weeks. In that time I had my truck inspected and they didn't notice anything and said my brakes looked fine. I ended up failing for my parking brake and rear bumper. I replaced the bumper and lubed my parking brake and started using is regularly for a week and it passed and I got a new sticker. When it was getting inspected I had my tires rebalanced.

    Initially the balancing seemed to make the problem go away. About a week went by and I didn't get the vibration. So I decided to buy new tires because they weren't cutting it in the snow which we get a lot of in Maine. I ended up just buying new Grabber A/T2 in 265 70 16. Again, the vibration seemed to be gone and I figures the balance was bad and the tires were cupped really badly and that is what was causing the problem.

    Yesterday driving home I got the vibration again. I was only driving for about 10 minutes when it started. I stopped at my mechanics on the way home and he drove with me for a few miles until we felt the vibration. He didn't really feel the vibration but as soon as I hit the brakes he felt it and said that I have a front brake problem. When we got back he took the temp of both rotors. Front drivers was over 400F and front passenger was 280F. He suggested that the problem was a warper rotor or a caliper issue on the drivers side.

    Can anyone please give me their 2-cents on how they would approach this? Apologies for the long post I just wanted to make sure that I gave as much info as I could!
     
  2. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:07 PM
    #2
    montanayota

    montanayota Member

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2015
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    montana
    Vehicle:
    08 double
    124,000
    maine is awesome I lived in scarborough for several years before moving to Montana , I would suggest investing in some high grade rotors and brakes , hopefully that will solve your issue, where in Maine are you from ?
     
  3. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:11 PM
    #3
    Ravic

    Ravic Artisan in DIY mods

    Joined:
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    TP
    North Augusta, SC
    Vehicle:
    2013 DCSBMGM OR 4x4
    DIY Mods-BHLM, Plastidip Rims (now spares), color matched Grille, Plate Bumper, bilstein set @2.5 (self installed no spring compressor), 2" Rough Country AAL, LR UCAs. Non DIY- 285/75r16 duratracts, procomp 7031.
    You need new rotors. 99% of break "pulsing" is caused by warped or worn rotors. @15 years old your over due for them anyway.
     
  4. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:12 PM
    #4
    moondeath

    moondeath Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Pa, Gardners
    Vehicle:
    2013 TRD Sport DCLB 4x4
    5100 @ 0” w/ 2.5” Eibach spring, 1.5" Icon Progressive 3 leaf + 1” block, Procomp Wheels, Grill Thin Lip (Custom Car Grills Mod), Access Tonneau Cover, Pop & Lock Tailgate Electronic Lock PL8521
    As for the front rotors. If they're warped you can either get them turned (shaved down), or just replace them. That will fix the brake vibration.

    Internals of the calipers could be corroded a bit causing one side to have more pressure, in turn causing one side to heat up more. I would flush the entire brake fluid system. If you have the calipers off for replacing or turning the rotors, the caliper pistons should smoothly slide back with the use of a C clamp. Shouldn't bind or grind. If they do, they should be rebuilt or replaced.

    I would recheck the tire balance if the driving vibes just started again.
     
  5. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:13 PM
    #5
    montanayota

    montanayota Member

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    08 double
    124,000
     
  6. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:14 PM
    #6
    montanayota

    montanayota Member

    Joined:
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  7. Jan 10, 2015 at 8:18 PM
    #7
    Bridger7

    Bridger7 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Maine
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tacoma Doublecab SR5, V6
    Scarborough, I spend some time around there fishing for stripped bass in the summer! Just moved Yarmouth about a year ago, before that we were in Cumberland. I went to school in Bozeman, Mt. from 94-98, loved it out there!

    I'll start pricing out rotors, pads and a rebuild kit for the calipers,

    Thanks for the reply.
     
  8. Jan 11, 2015 at 1:02 PM
    #8
    Bridger7

    Bridger7 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
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    #146057
    Messages:
    4
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    Male
    Maine
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tacoma Doublecab SR5, V6
    Thanks for the responses. I ended up pulling off the calipers today to check the pistons and my drivers side, which had the rotor that was quite a bit hotter, and it seemed like there were 2 pistons that were not moving and would stick. The passenger side was better but one also seemed like it was not moving as freely as the rest. I ended up replacing both calipers, rotors and pads. Drove it for about 30 miles and, knock on wood, everything seems fine now. I didn't get any vibration or brake pulse. Thanks again for the help.
     
  9. Jan 29, 2015 at 8:07 AM
    #9
    Rufus

    Rufus Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    OEM Truck Bed Extender, Window Tint, Tailgate Security Mod, OEM Spare Tire Lock, Cam Locks (storage compartments), OEM Bed Mat, OEM Skid Plate, Stant 11504 Locking Gas Cap, TW Edrin55 OEM Running Boards, Pop & Lock w/Back-Up Cam, Black WeatherTechs, Red Line Quick Lift Plus Hood Struts, Wet Okole Front Seat Covers-black/charcoal with red & white TRD graphic & back seat pockets, DIY Satoshi Grillcraft & Old School Toyota Badge, TW ZonKs Black UWS Low Pro Truck Box, Rear Suspension TSB, 3M Scotch Guard Paint & Headlight Protection Film 8mm Urethane, Flyzeye V2 Wired Amber/White/Amber Interior LED Lights w/Silver Case, Sleek Looking Black LED Tail Lights from K2 Motors (Identical to OEM, but black).
    ^^Useful info. Glad you got it figured out & repaired.
     

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