Engine wont start, what could it be? P0130, p1310 SOLVED

Hopefully where he vacations is filled with folks that have lots of misspellings, as that seems to be his favorite thing in the world.

Nice work moderators, hurray!

 

under our names there is a little red triangle, put your mouse on it and it says "report post" then you just type your reason for reporting the post and hit send

mods are voluntary positions in most cases and so its done in our spare time as much as we can devote to the websites we volunteer to so we aren't always on all the time so give the guys here time to react to a reported post. sometimes it can take hours if something comes up and a mod is kept away by other obligations.

being a mod is a PITA and thankless job that takes up as lot of your time, trust me I know, im a moderator on several forums and its not always easy dealing with guys like this. you don't want to swing the big hammer but you still need to get them to act civil and show others respect. that can be like potty training a dog at times and some guys like this one just flat out demand that you ban them.

 

Well... thread has been active...not in the most productive way

Is there any way to trouble shoot fuel pressure issues? Like disconnecting the return like and seeing if fuel squirts out? Applying vacuum to the pressure regulator while running the pump?

Don't think a fuel pressure gauge would be hard to find but darn toyota made it a pita to check, ill need a special adapter, that might take a while to procure.

Also don't think that one can run the pump from the diagnostic plug by the intake manifold. FSM says apply voltage to the pump directly. The plug has no connector on the FP pin.

Thanks in advance.

Ps, is the pressure regulator naturally open with no vacuum and closes as vacuum is applied...as it closes pressure builds?

 

lovemytacolots just went through fuel pressure testing im sure she knows as much about it as anyone.

she went to bed but should be back tomorrow, try PM her if no one drops in to help.

what little I know is there is a fitting to connect in the line to hook your gage to but I think thats the one you are talking about

 

Here's an update.

I took off the fuel line at the rail in hopes of figuring out the bolt size, Seems like a banjo m12 x 1.25 bolt.

http://www.autozone.com/fittings-an...with-russell-640910-641110-and-641120/773861/

For $10 this one might make a good adapter to hook a pressure gauge.

Anyways, I placed the line inside a ziplock bag and turned the key, Plenty of fuel filled the bag.
I'm thinking that the starting circuit might be activating the fuel pump but maybe the ECM is not keeping the pump running?

I placed a test light at the Circuit Opening Relay on the fuel pump line with the idea to put 12v directly on this line to keep the pump running.

Truck started then turned off after 10 secs. I started a second time and again 10 secs and turned off. there was power to the fuel pump about a second after engine turned off.

I noticed Check engine light was on and read 4 codes. 2 from MAF ( P0100 and P0110 I had disconnected the MAF earlier and this might have caused these codes)
and P1300 and P1310

I cleared the codes and started truck again, it ran much longer this time 30 seconds to a minute. When I closed the door to move it. it turned off.

Check engine light came back with codes P1300 and P1310

I turned engine back on and this time it remained on while I moved the truck to back yard for storage. I turned it off myself this time.

Any ideas? I'm puzzled that messing with the Circuit Opening relay caused it to turn on after numerous attempts where it never turned on.

At this point It seems fuel pressure is not the problem.

 

This is a copy and paste.

Possible causes
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
What does this mean?
When is the code detected?
The P1300 code is for the ignition coil No.1 and is set when there is no IGF signal to the ECM during engine operation.


Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1300_toyota.html#ixzz3QsP6OBBR

 

The fuel problem could be a red herring. The Circuit Opening relay will automatically turn the fuel pump power off after a second or two if the engine is not running, usually detected by if it's sparking. If your ignition system isn't generating sparks, then the fuel pump will be shut off. But it may not be sparking for other reasons, like a bad crank or cam sensor, etc.

The relay will turn on when the key is in the start position also or for the first second in the ON position.

 

Thanks all for the replies. What is puzzling to me is that when this first occurred I squirted fuel inside the manifold and this kept the engine running.

This might be a bad connection somewhere, my plan is to clean the connectors at the ECM and the coils MAP etc. Ill use a electrical contact cleaner for now, my plan is to order some Caig deoxit and also apply dielectric grease to the plugs (not the contacts) to keep moisture out.

I also ordered the banjo bolt from AutoZone and will install a fuel pressure gauge at the rail.

Then see what happens from here.

 

Finally got around working on the truck today. Unfortunately I did a lot of things at once so I'm unable to say for sure what the problem was.

I changed the fuel filter and while I was at it I installed a fuel pressure gauge.



This will make it easy to trouble shoot fuel issues in the future,

Like I mentioned before I unplugged all engine connectors and sprayed them with contact cleaner (Caig deoxit) I also put some dielectric grease on all connectors (around the pins where the rubber gaskets is, not on the pins where they make contact) to seal water from going inside the connectors.

I also cleaned ECM and some connectors under the dash, all relays and fuses in the engine bay and both coils. Cleaned ground connections at firewall, coil bracket and near battery, Replaced battery wires since they had colors inverted. reused the red and bought a new ground wire,

The only thing I noticed that was odd was that the camshaft position sensor plug had residual oil on the pins. and the locking tab on the connector was broken off. as a result the plug could easily come loose or off completely with engine vibration.

After cleaning I ran a long tie-wrap around injector 2, over the CPS, and around injector 3. this will keep the CPS connector firmly in place.

Maybe this was the culprit (intermittent contact or no contact at the CPS) but there was no indication from the ECM that this was the case as per the codes already mentioned.

Truck started several times without issue.

Tomorrow I will replace sparkplugs and wires and take it for a spin.

Anyone knows how the fuel pressure on the rails should last after engine is off? I see a gradual decline in pressure over time.
Pressure is about 48psi with engine on.
Drops to 44psi with engine off.
then slowly leaks over time. I would have to time it tomorrow but it seem like 1psi per minute or so.

 

From the repair manual:

(p) Measure the fuel pressure at idle.
Fuel pressure:
206-256 kPa (2.1-2.6 kgf/cmz, 31-37 psi)

If pressure is not as specified, check the vacuum
sensing hose and fuel pressure regulator.

(q) Stop the engine.
(r) Check that the fuel pressure remains as specified for 5 minutes after the engine has stopped.
Fuel pressure:
147 kPa (1.5 kgf/cmz, 21 psi) or more
​

With the fuel pump on and engine off, the pressure should be 38-44psi. Your pressure seems a little high if you are at idle speed.

 

You can't rule out that the gauge is off a few psi.
If it is properly calibrated, I doubt being a few psi high would be the problem.

One code is for coil #1? So you can swap coils and reset the computer to test that one.

 

This morning truck started without issues. So i replaced the spark plugs and cables.
Then problem started again. Code P1300 and P1310 show up after cranking the engine. swapped coils just for giggles and erased codes, cranked engine and p1300 and p1310 show up.

pressure at the rail held steady throughout the tuneup. I thinking of replacing both coils to see what happens. But I'm afraid it could be a broken wire in the harness to the coils.

I need a wiring diagram for this engine. anyone? the FSM linked here is for the 6cyl

 

Well if the coils are ok, then the other symptoms according to the codes, are short/open, poor connection, or ECM.

My first instinct would be to swap out the ECM, though that could be a pain sourcing one.

 

Right, but I want to rule out a bad connection, but I'll need the wiring diagram. I'll wait until I can check connections at the coils, My guess is that moving harness around fixed the first time, and while swapping spark plug wires the connection was broken again.

Thanks

 

Good luck, those gremlins are the worst.

 

OK here's an update.

I found an ECM wiring diagram for the 98 2RZ-FE

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xsiintegra/library/Forums

Thanks to that I noticed that the signal wire IGF to the ECM is pin 3 Black-Yellow wire on both coils an goes to pin 17 on connector D at the ECM.

Previous owner had installed an aftermarket Tachometer and is tapping at pin 17.
coincidence?

One of the last steps I did after the engine was running the last time was to install glove box and panel behind glovebox. I could have touched the plug for connector D and this could have triggered P1300 and P1310

So I checked continuity from pin 17 to the the coils. All good, I wiggle wire harness by the coils in case there was an intermittent connection, all solid.

I noticed that pin 17 had little wiggle room so I gave it more slack and plugged everything back in. Took a 20 mile drive. All good and no issues since.
It could be that the tach might be interfering with the signal? If this ever comes back I will cut the wire to the tach and see if this fixes it for good.

I did get a CEL on that drive P0125 which research say it might be upstream oxygen sensor and that it gets misdiagnosed as temperature sensor.

Thinking of getting both o2 sensors (DENSO) from Amazon at $47 shipped and at my door in 2 days.
Since previous owner mentioned that the CEL would come on with code related to emissions but that t didn't affect driveability, God knows these might be the original sensors. truck has 137K miles now.

from amazon comment:
"My pocket scanner had been showing an engine malfunction code of P0125. Initially, for several months, the engine malfuction light would come on, my scanner would show this code, and I would erase the code with the scanner which caused the light to go out. The engine light would not come on again until 50-100 miles later. Recently, the light started coming on after the engine temperature gauge warmed up to normal operating temp. I think the sensor was telling me that it was completely shot. Some website posts were suggesting a bad thermostat for causing the problem. But, the new 234-4162 Denso oxygen sensor immediately fixed the malfunction"

 

Been running errands with the truck all week, No issues with starting and codes P1300 and P1310 have not showed up.

All points to an intermittent connection on pin 17 of connector D (IGF) at the ECM. The tap into the pin 17 wire for the tachometer was done about 1 inch from the connector and it might have been pulling on the pin when the connector was plugged. I pulled the wire out of the hardness and now it makes a small loop before entering the connector. This removed any pull on this pin. So far so good.

Now that I've been running truck more P0125, showed up, I erased and the next day P0125 P0171 P0130 P0133 P0136 showed up. Erased those and next day it was P0125 only. etc.

I swapped both o2 sensors today and made about a mile drive, no issues. Will be driving about 20 miles tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

Next step, I think It has a small oil leak on the front engine seal.

Edit: it has been about 50miles of errands and no issues yet. Changing the o2 sensors solved the last set of codes.

 

so having the same issue as far as p1300 and no start
not sure if its fuel filter or pump causing issue but i did locate a wire disconnected from ignition pack.
attached is a picture of where its disconnected, anyone got a tip on how to fix?

 

I have a 2.4l not familiar with the v6 or that harness, I would suggest you check the wiring diagram for that engine to determine what wire is the one disconnected. If it's IGF then the code would make sense and the no start.

Good luck

 

That looks like igt1 which would give the po1300 code. I removed mine with difficulty it comes out from the back you will need to use a thin flat blade jewelers screwdriver to remove it. If you are able to repair it you may need to superglue it back in to prevent it from backing out. The other cause for po1300 could be that you reversed #1 and #2 spark control wire from the coil pack wire #2 is actually longer than #1 coming out of the loom easy to do red and blown stripe are for for the #1 coil pack. The harnesses get old after a while and there may be an intermittent break in the wire. The dark wire on each coil pack is the ground and it runs all the way back to the igniter and then to the ecm so that would also throw a similar code. You may be able to cut an igniter connector from the junk yard with several inches of wire and just splice a complete connector on you your truck

A general note:

po codes are displayed only after three failures in a row and are erased after three non failures in a row. This is why you can reset the check engine light and it will remain off for a short period usually no longer than a day before it gets the required three failures and throws the check engine light.

As someone mentioned the ecm will shut off the fuel supply under a po 1300 to prevent raw gas from getting to and ruining the catalytic converter. Turn the key off then on to reset it.

While you are troubleshooting you may get other codes that are relating to too much unburned gas po 171 egr cat efficiency and others. They will clear by themselves once you get the truck running. So don't go running out and buying a bunch of parts you don't need.

Summary

Check the control wires coming from the ignitor make sure they are not swapped. Especially if you changed the plugs.
Check the connectors to the coil packs and the ignitor to make sure there is not a break.
Check the connectors to make sure that one of more is not recessed more than the others.
Check the continuity of the igt ground and igr wires from the oil packs to the ignitor to the ecm harness for continuity.
check the ignitor for proper signal.
Check the ecm for proper signal to the ignitor connector.

manuals are tricky to find I believe the 2003 5vfe has an electric throttle and doesn't have a po 1300 for some reason the manual does have a schematic and a troubleshooting procedure in the diagnostics section that is the same as the older modelsCheck the ecm for proper signal to the ignitor connector. I have a 2001 tundra but the manual for the tacoma worked for me