2.7 Injector Replacement Tips?

I have a new set of cleaned and flow matched injectors sitting here, and I'm thinking of diving into the job this weekend. The truck is my DD, so I have a few questions in advance - don't want to get in over my head.

In the manual, it says to also replace the insulators. These are the little cups that go in the head that the injectors fit into. How hard will it be to get the old ones out? Any risk of them coming apart and bits falling in the cylinders? How about them getting stuck crooked and messing up the head? I really don't want to end up having to pull my head this weekend.

Any other tips folks can think of when it comes to changing injectors? The rest of the job looks pretty simple, but you never know.

 

I don't think it's a big concern. If the insulator breaks apart it is just rubber. It may already be disintegrating. Just to be sure, we are taking about the part that fits between the injector and plastic spacer in the cylinder head?

What will break are the plastic spacers that fit into the cylinder head, so don't try to remove them. If you did replace those, there is an o-ring between them and the cylinder head.

There is also an o-ring and grommet between each injector and the fuel rail.

 

I think the manual calls the little spacers "insulators." It clearly says to remove and replace them. I have the spacers and the o-rings for them, and I guess I would rather replace them so I don't have to dig in there again later.

Are there any tricks to getting them out without breaking them apart? Or is it simply too risky to try unless I'm pulling the head anyway?

 

DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC SEATS - if they aren't loose, turn, wiggle, or are cracked or broken, then leave them alone, just be sure to have new big round grommet looking seals on the bottom and new O-rings on the top

a good tip I was given was to wipe some veggie oil on the seals before installing to help things go on easier. but just on the outside, if you get it inside the big grommet it wont be easy to keep it in place to install them.

when I did mine I didn't even have to remove the TB, just take the duct out of the way and you have access to do it but it is easier without the TB there.

make sure all the seals come off with the old injectors, on mine the front one didn't and for a second I couldn't figure out why it wasn't fully seating correctly.


I removed the injector rail with the injectors as one piece and it came out very easy with hardly any need to pull on it at all, then I put all injectors in the rail then installed the rail and injectors as one unit.

when putting it on you will notice it seams like you have to tighten it down a lot more then you had to loosen it to get it off but that's just the injectors being pressed into the plastic seats so just tighten it until you feel the bolts get tight then torque them as required.

it took me like 20 minutes start to finish and I have never done this before.

note I have the same engine as you but the 2.7 are also the same

 

Sound advice. I will leave them alone if I can.

I would still like to know any tips for replacing them if I have to. Hopefully I won't have to.

 

I never touched the plastic seats when I pulled my injectors. Wasn't an issue.

When I did mine I was removing the intake manifold to clean it thoroughly and I replaced the fuel filter while it was easy to access.
Dont know how deep you have to dig to get just the injectors out, but if you're down there might as well do the other stuff too.

 

Yep. I have all the gaskets to remove and clean the whole intake and TB. Just replaced the fuel filter less than a year ago, so I'm going to leave that alone for now. Lots of folks complain about that job, but going through the wheel well with the truck on a lift and the wheel off is not too bad with long socket extensions.

I plan to test the fuel pressure and the pressure regulator at the same time.

 

Here is a picture of the o-rings, spacer, insulator and grommet in order from the cylinder head out to the fuel rail. The part numbers in the picture were for a 1996 2RZ-FE, but the setup should be the same and probably the same part numbers for other years and 3RZ-FE.

And the repair manual will say to just lubricate things with gas when fitting them together.

 

Thanks for the help, guys.

I left the cups alone. Truck runs smoother now for sure.

 

Anyone know where to locate the injector cups,besides the dealer.Just trying to put a head (new)on a 2.7 and cant finish.without injector cups,dealer will not have till tuesday.

 

Doing this this weekend - when you guys pulled the fuel inlet pipe from the rail, did you replace the two gaskets on either side of the bolt holding the inlet pipe to the rail?

 

Are you talking about the two metal gaskets on the 17mm banjo bolt? I've never replaced those on either of my Toyotas when I took that off, and I've never had a problem.

 

Yup, exactly - there's one between the rail and the inlet pipe, and one between the inlet pipe and the banjo bolt head. The service manual says to replace them, but I've had a hell of a time sourcing them. Glad to know they don't need replacement - thanks!

 

they come free with a new ful pump but not all fuel pumps include them and even some that do they get robbed out of the boxes at the parts stores.

buy a wix or napa fuel filter (making sure to check they are in the box) or send them to go grab another box off of the shelf.

and you are right, they are a supreme PITA to find and even Toyota told me I would have to buy a filter to get new ones or wait for some to be ordered from japan .

reassembly tip from someone who lost 2 of them (dropped down into the clutter on top the engine), put some grease on them so they stick to it and wont fall off. and its harmless, if any grease gets into fuel system it wont hurt anything and dissolves instantly.

 

I am replacing the head on my 1997 Tacoma and the new head doesn’t have the insulator cups in it that the fuel injectors go into. How in the heck do you get the new ones down in the hole??? I’ve already broken one, so had to buy another.

 

Why did it break? It's too small? There is an o-ring that goes between the head and cup if I recall correctly and you should coat it with gas to help lube it while putting it in. I don't remember it being difficult at all to put them in.

 

It falls right in without the o-ring but with it on and lubed with gas it will not go in. I broke it by trying to tap it in. I pulled one of the old ones out the old head and had to chisel it out.

 

Did you get the cups from Toyota? I'm just wondering if the size is slightly off. I don't remember having much trouble getting them in, so something weird is going on. Either the cups are too big or the cylinder head holes are too small. I assume the metal is nice and clean.

 

Well I had Toyota order o-rings for the cups and that was the problem. There were 4 o-rings in the head gasket kit that I thought were for that.....
All back together but now it won’t start, seems to be either no spark, timing, or compression. I set timing straight out of the repair manuel so wouldn’t figure that’s the problem.

 

Check all your electrical connections and vacuum hoses. Most likely you just forgot to hook something back up. Maybe the distributor isn't aligned correctly to the cam gear (if you have a distributor). A timing light helps to check that.