Door check stop needs replacing

Hi Guys,
So my driver's side door won't stay open. I finally got around to taking the door check thingy out and it is all bent and worn out. The previous owner must have been really rough swinging the door open. Anybody know the best place to get one? How much they run?

Will

 

In case anyone else needs to know. The part number for the driver's side is [FONT=&quot]68620-04010 and it cost around 70.00 .
I am hoping I can find a used one, but it's almost impossible to find a tacoma being parted out.

Will
[/FONT]

 

I'd still hit a bone yard. There are lots of toyotas that use the same parts in various models close to your year. I did this with my '95.5 Taco and used alot of parts from Camrys, Celicas, Corrolas, etc.

 

I'll check it out online and see if any of them show the same part. If so, I'll know what to look for.

Thanks, Will

 

Okay, I checked out some other toyotas. They all seem to have the same part of the door check that wears out the part that is inside the door that the metal arm slides in), the arm and bracket that mount to the jam are different though. I got one off of a Camry and cut the pin that holds the assembly together and switched the arm. Put a new roll pin in place of the pin I cut off and it's as good as new. If anyone else needs help with this feel free to message me.

Regards, Will

 

I realize this thread is old, but it's the only related one I can find.

My checks (especially driver) are worn out too. Very annoying, as the door won't even stay open on flat ground. Before spending $140, I figured I'd try a free fix. I put two part epoxy on the two "bumps" of the check, to try and build it back up. Crossing my fingers that it will work, but I have my doubts. I wasn't about to install it back in last night and risk epoxying my door shut so I'll mess with it tonight. I'll report back as to whether it seemed to work or not. I can't be the only one with this issue, given the age of these trucks now.

 

Did it work??

 

coupla' options

Used

New/oem Aft. Mkt.

read that driver and passenger are the same #, 95-04
if that's correct..? swap the catch of each door
and maybe warn the passenger

 

Well, the first epoxy fix was a failure. It was clear two part epoxy. After it dried, the first time I tried the mechnism, it sheered the epoxy right off the plastic of the check. I then tried a "JB weld" type of epoxy. Let this dry for a couple of days. It was then too much build up for the mechanism to be able to clear the new humps, so I ground them down a bit. It now seems to work decently. If I was operating at 5% before, I'd say it now works at 60-75% of what a new one would. Hopefully it holds up well. I took out the passenger side and applied the JB weld last night, so I'll probably have to grind it a bit tonight.

As far as the R and L being identical.... I can't attest to that, but I do know that they are stamped "R" and "L".

 

Hey guys,

Mine are both worn as well. Before I dive in on this, what is involved to remove them? Do you need to remove the interior door panel or can you access everything from the jamb?

 

It's easy..takes 5 minutes (maybe 10 the first time if you've never taken the door panel off).

Take off door panel
Take off plastic covers on the door check...one from inside door jam/hinge (this is what covers the two nuts...10mm I think) and one on the larger bolt on the body side.
Remove the two nuts and one bolt
Slide it out through the open door area where the panel was.

 

I just called local dealer for a price. $103, anal lube not included. Getting online hits for ~$70.

 

I have two of them for first gen.

 

And...?

 

25.00 each plus 5.00 shipping.

 

Are they new or used?

 

Andy's are used.

I have a passenger door side one. Mine is used as well.

Same price if anyone is interested.

Later

KO

 

Thanks Kirk for filling in the line for me. I got to remember to be more specific.haha

 

When using epoxy or JB Weld, it's a good idea to not only thoroughly clean the area being epoxied, but also give the area some 'tooth' by sanding with coarse grit sandpaper or a grinder of some sort...for smaller pieces, I use a Dremel tool with a cut-off blade to run over the surface...if you don't give the surface some tooth, of course the adhesive will fail. A little tip here for y'all...

 

I am looking for a door check for a 2009 Tacoma - driver's side. thanks.