E-locker help!!!

sNEED HELP!!!

i just swapped out my non-trd axle for a trd axle with a locker. i don't have a working harness for it yet, in the process.

well i just wanted to test and see if the locker works. i don't have a harness for it yet and so i wired it straight from a battery (motorcycle) to the power wire of the stock harness connector.

i contacted/touched the pos wire from the battery to the light green wire on the harness. i then contacted/touched the neg wire from the battery to the light green-red stripe........it works......it locks.

i reversed it and it unlocked. i tried it one more time and it locks. NOW IT WON'T UNLOCK!!!

ANYONE, PLEASE HELP!!!.......

I NEED TO UNLOCK IT BACK TO OPEN UNTIL I GET A WIRED HARNESS FOR IT!!!

 

don't tell me i really f****cked it up!!!

i understand that i could probably have to move the elocker a slide it to "unlock" but have never done that!!!

HELP!!!

 

Yeah, I wouldn't tear it apart, until you tried rocking the axles back and forth, with power to the disconnect side. Mine sometimes takes a little movement to get it unlocked.

 

hmmmmm........right now the thing is locked. i can't even drive it.

i tried that method but nothing. i don't even hear the actuator motor working now. before i would hear it unlock/lock. but now.....nothing.

could it be the lock limit switch not ableing it to unlock???

 

my bad, i meant that i don't want to drive it now that its locked.....

 

please don't flame too bad but this is a noob question as i'm a noob to the elocker.

what am i looking for when i take it apart?

if when taken apart, can i manually move/slide the locker one way to "unlock" it and could i also install it in the "unlocked" position?

help y'alls.......

 

anyone got any other methods/ideas on how to unlock it without the harness???

 

Damn dude I'm no locking diff expert but like another poster said about the hindsight 20/20 thing, you probably shouldn't have applied direct 12v juice to the terminals (maybe the voltage is lower to engage- disengage the locker) You may have smoked the solenoid that locks or unlocks the diff, I'm not gonna scold you because we have all made mistakes but when it comes to components (especially eletrical ones) They are best left to either a trained tech or until you have a thorough understanding & working knowledge of said components & how they interact with each other..I would start by putting an OHM meter across the terminals of solenoid (after finding out what range is acceptable) & see if current can flow thru the solenoid, if after doing this (OHMing the solenoid out) you get a bunch of zeros for the continuity test it would be reasonable to conclude that the solenoid is history, if so replace the solenoid AND BY NO MEANS ENERGIZE IT UNTIL YOU HAVE THE PROPER WIRING HARNESS & ITS INTEGRATED PROPERLY INTO YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. Don't know if this helps at all but good luck

 

Like stated above, applying a direct 12v source to the actuator isnt the greatest idea. If you look up a wiring diagram of the actuator, you can see that a direct 12v source is not applied to the locker. There is a chance you messed up your actuator. I'm kind of surprised you even got it to unlock after the first time it locked.

If you cant get it to unlock (using the proper wiring, and harness; you can also make your own if you know if you know what your doing) I would try rotating the axle some while your having voltage applied to the locker. Maybe you can shimmy it out. If not, you are going to need to take the actuator apart, and figure out what went wrong. Good luck.

 

yeah, i guess i really did a good one this time.........d'oh!!!.....

i'll try and see what i can do from here.......

would anyone know the "proper" ohm reading for the elocker actuator/motor?

i searched and got mixed results but nothing conclusive.

i think i might have f*****cked up some stuff in there but don't know.

i tested out the elocker through the stock wiring harness with a digi multimeter. i touched the light green (power to lock) and the light green/red stripe (power to unlock) and got a 4.4 ohm resistance with the multimeter set @ 200 (can't go lower than 200).

is this within the correct range?......>>>>>......don't want to know that i reallu f****cked somthin' up.

 

yeah, this is great but i don't have the 4wd computer to check for the M1 and M2 wires.

any other suggestions???