Various repair costs???

I am lucky enough to have a 1999 4X4 Tacoma that was bought new and driven until 2006 when it was parked inside my garage. I purchased a newer model and just let the 99 sit for years. It still runs great and looks mint however it had a few issues that slowly showed up.

I plan to take it out of storage and begin driving it again as I wish to use it for camping with my 3 dogs. Ok my questions are can anyone give me a general idea of how much the repairs needed should cost and any tips for getting a vehicle parked for 5 years back on the road?

I replaced the battery so far and drove it a few miles to find it still runs well. It does feel like it needs a clutch for sure as well as front rotors as it shakes like crazy when I am slowing. It also sounds like it has an exhaust leak and I need to replace the front windshield due to a bad crack. I have noticed a few drops of fluid that have leaked out over time from under the rear transfer case and have no idea what this means....any ideas? It is not a huge leak however seems to be right in the middle of the rear axle and leaked over several years.

So for now I am looking for a new clutch, and rotors, amd maybe a simple tune up to the motor that has 156k on the clock. I have found all kinds of different prices online for parts and was hoping others could give me some real world costs if you have had similiar work done. Also should I even worry about any motor work after such a long storage?....Should I worry about the rear end leak and if so what is this most likely from?

Thanks for any input as this truck is much to nice to simply let it waste away in storage.....few pics below.

 

General Maintenance..... and do an overall inspection.
Change out all the fluids (engine oil, diffs, t-case, transmission).
Check all the other fluids for level and fluid clarity (steering, brake, clutch fluids & antifreeze).
You might think about a radiator flush.
When was the last time the timing belt was changed?
Had the water pump been changed?
Check spark plugs.... ??
Change air filter

Other than that.....lube all the necesssary zerks everywhere.

Other than that - go from there and deal with things as they prop up.

Whatever else I can't think of right now...

 

Thanks for the advice Janster and I have made a list and plan to drop it off this weekend for an estimate. I can actually drive the truck anywhere and feel just fine doing so. I am mostly afraid of when something does go wrong it will be big so I want to go ahead and freshen up the major things.

From what I found online the rotors should not be that much however to replace the clutch the right way could go about 800 dollars. I also read that the timing chain should also be replaced however found many on here who have very high mileage on their original part. Regardless the truck looks in mint condition and if a little money now will ensure several more years it will be worth it to me.

And to answer your questions the timing belt has never been changed and the water pump has also never been touched. The plugs were changed out at about 15k miles past however I will most likely go ahead and get new ones with a standard tune up. I have ran a K&N filter on it since the first week and keep it oiled and clean often....I swear by a good filter and really do trust K&N for a little added confidence.

Thanks again for the list...

 

You should look at trying to do some of this work yourself. Some of it, is not that difficult and will save you a bunch of $$. Just research on this forum and you'll get plenty of info to help you with it.

On my old 96 - the timing belt interval was 60K miles and I had that changed at 60k when I bought the truck. As for the water pump....mine leaked for a good couple years before I knew it needed changed. It was 85K miles when I changed it. Resevoir tank kept getting low and I kept topping it off for 2 years until I found where the fluid was coming from. Most of the time, it just evaporated and never left any visual marks.

I also changed the spark plugs on mine....they were the original plugs at 70K miles or so. They looked worn as shit but the damn truck ran great and you couldn't tell they were worn to shit (I was never hard on it nor did I ever stomp on the gas either).

 

You might want to think about replacing the water pump just in case, worst case would be it fails and the motor overheats and causes lots O damage. I'd do a couple of oil changes as well, sitting for so long may have gummed up the insides, so change oil, drive a hundred miles or so, and change oil again. Whatever you do don't put any kind of "oil treatment" stuff in, that can cause more issues than it fixes. If it hasn't had the brake fluid changed in all that time definitely do that, brake fluid older than a couple years starts absorbing water and won't work as well as new fluid, and since it looks like you're changing your rotors you can just do that at the same time.

 

i replaced pads and rotors on my '02 TRD saturday. it took me two hours start to finish. i spent about $120 on parts.

used a 22mm socket to remove the lug nuts, a 17mm socket to pull the calpier bolts. i found it helped to turn the wheels out to get in and remove the calpier bolts. do this only after the truck is resting on a secure jack stand! take your time pulling the pins that hold the pads in the caliper. over the many miles, brake dust has hardened and takes keeping the pads and the pad spring even. i used the old pads and two c-clams to push the pistons back into the caliper after loosening the bleed screw.

i was really supprised at how easy the front brakes are to work on on this truck.

i called the dealer, price for them to replace pads and turn rotors $230. new rotors and new pads $510..

cadman

 

You know now that I think about it I may actually attempt to do some of it myself. I have a roll around tool box with plenty of tools and the truck is inside a full basement allowing easy access out of the weather.

I am pretty good with tools as I was once a Ford Man and did lots of mods to my old Mustangs. I believe I could figure out much of it and the truck has sat for years anyway. I could work on if a few hours each night as I now believe any shop (especially the dealer) would be a waste of money.

I remember when I parked it the rotors had just suddenly warped and I had recently had them turned about a month earlier when I had the pads done. I was shocked they warped so quickly however never paid it much thought as I had just bought my new truck. I believe it was due to a camping trip and I drove through a shallow creek after a long downhill slope.....could the cold water on warm brakes warp them?....maybe the thinner turned rotor was easier to warp?

I believe the water pump and other minor stuff would be pretty easy however I really do not wish to tackle the clutch issue alone. Thanks again for the suggestions.

 

Good call, these trucks are VERY easy to work on!

 

i've replaced clutches in a '68 VW's, a '72 Mercury Capri, a '84 mustang, and a few motorcycles.
i don't think that the job is hard at all. the issues are supporting the weight of the tranny, and centering a floor jack under the thing as you drop and pull it out.

replacing the clutch shouldn't take anymore than 5 hours maybe less, if you can get a bit of help.

look up the repair either online or in your service manual. go over it a few times in your head, and kick some worn clutch butt!!!


and yes hot rotors and water = warped rotors. rotors are not as beefy as in years past. maufactures have reduced the weight of vehicles and brake rotors are one of the areas they have trimmed the weight from. i always avoid puddles/potholes after a rain especially in turns where the road is washed out.