Are my cylinders shot (pictures)

My engine would not start due to really low compression, so I took the head off and here is what I found. The tops of the cylinders are pretty rough looking, but I don't know if this is normal wear and tear. The truck has 113,000 miles on it. From looking at the owners manual, the previous (1 owner) owner took very good care to record all the maintenance. I took meticulous care as well. (97 Tacoma 2WD w/2.4 Liter




A whole mess of pictures of the head and block are posted here:

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147922

 

that looks like a pretty good sized ring at the top of cylinder though... if there is a noticable ridge there like it looks like there is you atleast need to have it honed and new rings probably..thats called ring ridge...where the cylinders wear out from wear the rings slide up and down leaving a ring around the top that is fresh metal

 

Your engine shows sign of oil consuming, burning. Your oil rings must be jammed,
Your valves do not look good at all. There was a lot of oil residue on your valves.
You better change your rings, valve seals, etc...rebuild the whole engine.
If you do it yourself, it is not gonna cost you too much.

 

Hopefully the Acetone/Marvel Mystery Oil mix that I've been running in my engine from day one will help prevent that gunk from adhering to my intake and engine parts.

I have 4,000 miles right now and you can't even feel it idle.

I run 10% Marvel Mystery Oil to 90% Acetone in each tank (21 gallon) fill-up. I fill a standard 16 oz. waterbottle with the stuff and store it in the bed compartment with a funnel so it's ready to install before the fuel goes in.

I figure that it's good to keep things "like-new" inside while it's breaking-in. I'm hoping that this mixture will prevent crap from keeping my valves and rings from seating properly.

Based on my MPG I think it is doing some good. I'm beating the sticker ratings. I'm getting 23-24 in town and better than 32 on the highway @ 65 mph. I have the 2.7L Manual 5-speed.

First oil change will be either Mobil 1, Amsoil, or Royal purple. I'm going full synthetic.

At 10,000 miles I'm installing Microlon for the tranny, engine and rear differential.

-TSU

 

+1 the deposits are due to warn rings and when rings go valves follow. You can probably rering and do a valve job and call it good but as stated by someone else, once you start pulling pistons to rering you might as well rebuild the whole motor.

I used marvel mystery oil in my old bug, it really helped keep that motor clean. I've shyed away from using it on a FI car for fear of it affecting the MAF

 

Where is the MAF sensor located? In the air intake before the manifold or after the combustion occurs?

I was under the impression that the MAF sensor measured air density before the fuel mixture was mixed with intake air.