Won't start in cold - cam seized?

If anyone has any ideas about how to check if your cam is seized let me know. Here is what happened:

I had 5W30 in my car, but it had been burning oil (1 qt/2weeks or so), so I switched to 10W30 a few weeks ago and added some really thick oil treatment that said it was supposed to stop it from burning oil and leaking oil. Was running fine but...

It was really cold this morning (25 degrees F) and it wouldn't start. I thought maybe the battery was cold so I took it inside to let it warm up, then put it back in the car and it still didn't start. Had a friend help me jump it and it still wouldn't start.

Plugs, plug wires, alternator are all new, battery was tested not long ago and is in good working condition, and it ran perfectly fine yesterday.

I am worried that the thick oil and low temperature did this (which I found on another website):

I drained most of the oil (4.5qt) and refilled it with fresh 5W30, also bought some starter fluid and tried that, but still no start. I am afraid I permanently damaged my car by seizing the cam.

How can I be sure what happened and how can I (hopefully) fix the problem? Will take any suggestions.

(4-Cylinder 2.4L 1996 Tacoma Xtracab)

 

Are you getting spark at the plug? How Cold?

 

I am getting spark. It was about 25 degrees F outside when I was trying to start it this morning. The car is parked in the street outside now (in the city, outside my girlfriends apartment where I am now stranded).

Any ideas please!

 

if your cam is "seized", then your engine would not turn over at all.

 

Well it sounds like the starter is working and it is cranking fine, it just won't start.
Does this mean that the seized cam is not the issue?
What do I check for now - fuel -- and how, without a garage or tools?
It was working great yesterday and has about 1/2 tank of gas.

 

sounds like the starter to me

 

It would have to be thicker than that do do damage a 25deg.

 

while your turning the engine over, get someone else to bang on the gas tank and see if it trys to start. if it does then its your fuel pump. i had this happen with my s10 i use to drive and hit on the gas tank and fired up so i could get home but would not start back when i shut it off. had to replace the fuel pump

 

higherlux -- do starters just die suddenly, or do they sporadically work until they finally die? It hasn't given me any starting issues in the past. It makes the good cranking sound, not just a clicking or anything. Is there an easy quick way to test the starter?

Also this is happening today, the first really cold day we have had (here) so far, while the car just happens to be parked outside.


-- I am gonna try kicking the gas tank while trying to start - at worst it will allow me to let out some frustration!

Great ideas - keep the helpful tips coming! Should I change the title / have I ruled out the frozen cam thing?

 

when mine went out it did it sporadically
but once i changed it it worked fine
somthing else you might wanna check if this it the first time is the bug 80a fuse in your fuse box under the hood
if its blown the truck wont start

 

The 80amp alternator fuse looks fine, and the alternator was replaced only 4 or 5 months ago.

I tried kicking the gas tank - didn't seem to help, but it did make me feel a bit better.

The belts turn and it sounds normal when cranking, just won't catch.

I suppose I'll have to try squirting some more starting fluid in there tomorrow and seeing if I can get it to sputter even. (Is ether really bad for the aluminum?)

 

yeah its bad i wouldnt reccomned using it and it is highly flammable also. it can do some bad stuff to an engine

 

Correct

If it was the starter the engine wouldnt turn over.

correct 25 degrees isnt "cold"

eh... its ether. Ether wont hurt aluminum but it burns hot...probably wont do any damage since you using it to start the vehicle just dont keep spraying it to keep the truck running.

If the cam was seized the engine wouldnt run rough, it wouldnt run at all.


Vacuum lines... maybe, but the truck should start, just run terrible.



Try taking one plug out, leave it connected to the wire and ground the electrode. Have someone turn the engine over and verify you are getting spark.

 

I might be showing some ignorance here, but couldn't it be a broke timing belt?

I had a timing belt break on an old ford ranger I used to have and it did as the OP is describing.

 

Its chain driven.

 

I just now seen his truck specs at the bottom of his post. I was looking under his name and didn't see it there.

Carry on...

 

i thought he said it wasnt turnin over
well then thats eather a fuel or a spark prob
and since he said it has new wires and plugs im leanin towards fuel

 

• It has spark, so I think it is a fuel problem.
• It won't start, or even sputter.
• Starter cranks but doesn't get anywhere

Also, very high mileage vehicle. It ran perfectly fine yesterday and hasn't been giving me any problems like it would if "something was going".

and its a 1996 2.4L 4-Cyl and is my only means of transportation.

I just want to get it started so I can get out of the city, and back to my dad's house where I can keep it in the warm garage overnight and have access to some tools.

For checking fuel pressure, where is this shrader valve on the fuel line? I was hoping I could do a quick fuel pressure test by putting the key in the ON position, listening to hear if the fuel pump primes, then press the shrader valve and see if anything squirts out. Does this work as a fuel pressure test? I'm just searching the internet for cold starting problems.

Also, should I try disconnecting the temperature sensors (either the one in the air filter box, the one in the radiator, or both?)