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Idle vibration when warm

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by PacNWgen1, Feb 2, 2010.

  1. Feb 2, 2010 at 11:06 PM
    #1
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    DynoMax ST, Deck Plate, Full Syn, Soon Header and Slotted Rotors
    Well Let me start off by saying thanks to everyone here for the site and great info. So I had this horrible shake at idle almost sounded like it was going to die sitting at the stop light. So by looking around here it seem like the first thing to check was the Vac Lines and to change out the non Toyota ignition parts. Did that it got a little better. Then I cleaned the MAF. A little better still not good. Next it seem alot of people swore by the SEAFOAM product so I Went and got a couple cans. Dumped some in the oil cause I was going to change it in a couple days anyway put some in the tank and las t but not least gave my neighbors a smoke show by doing it though the vac line. And then took apart and cleaned out the Throttle Body. Well just for curiousity I removed the heat shield on the manifold and.........there it was a huge crack(almost in half)in the exhaust manifold.
    HTML:
    www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=29894
    So if any one has some headers for a 2.7l let me know.I thought there was no way it was going to run better with that crack but I put it all back together and tookit for a hot lap around the neighbor hood and came up to a stop light no vibration. .......After that long explanation I am wondering?

    If is is possible that the crack has no effect? or If just the combination of it "all" made it worse?

    Can I put a header on stock exhaust Then replace the rest when I have more money?

    Is it bad to run with the crack in the manifold?


    Thx Again for all the help:goingcrazy:
     
  2. Feb 3, 2010 at 12:27 AM
    #2
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    DynoMax ST, Deck Plate, Full Syn, Soon Header and Slotted Rotors
    Been Looking for headers. Seems like the TRi Y are the way to go. DT are 380-400.....the LC are 396 but no Tri Y. NWOR are out of my league. Anybody out there?
     
  3. Feb 3, 2010 at 8:01 AM
    #3
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    Bump of the mornin to yeah
     
  4. Feb 3, 2010 at 8:08 AM
    #4
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Yes, that crack will have an effect. It will cause the AFR sensor to give bad readings which may be the reason for the rough idling. I am suprised it didn't through a code. Did you by chance clean the IAC? It's under the TB.

    Yes, you can put AM headers on OEM exhaust.
     
  5. Feb 3, 2010 at 8:20 AM
    #5
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    Thx!......Yeah I was surprised too. I did not clean the IAC. I followed the thread on here about tips and tricks it never mentioned it.
     
  6. Feb 3, 2010 at 8:24 AM
    #6
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    The IAC controls rpm at idle. Your idle should be around 750 and steady (IIRC).
     
  7. Feb 3, 2010 at 8:29 AM
    #7
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    There are a few OBX headers on ebay for $300 shipped. I don't know much about that brand though. Food for thought.
     
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  8. Feb 3, 2010 at 8:35 AM
    #8
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    Thx.....How do I clean the IAC?
     
  9. Feb 3, 2010 at 8:55 AM
    #9
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Basically with a toolbrush and some Carb Cleaner
     
  10. Feb 3, 2010 at 9:04 AM
    #10
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    Yeah that is how I did the TB. Well will see. I have a call in to URD and TRDpart4u for the price on headers. I think that is my biggest problem now.
     
  11. Feb 3, 2010 at 9:06 AM
    #11
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Agreed. That needs to be addressed ASAP. I have never seen a crack that big. It almost looks like it is split in two.
     
  12. Feb 3, 2010 at 9:13 AM
    #12
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    I know I think when I get it off I will be able to break it in half with my hands. haha
     
  13. Feb 3, 2010 at 9:17 AM
    #13
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    It certainly looks like you would be able too. LMAO
     
  14. Feb 3, 2010 at 8:44 PM
    #14
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    Well The Guys at URD hooked me up. I ordered the DT Tri Y Header. He said maybe Friday if not I will have them by Monday. Then try and get those rusty nuts off. Hose them with PB Blaster and cross my fingers. Cant wait to hear them and see how it runs. Thx URD
     
  15. Feb 3, 2010 at 9:32 PM
    #15
    angela

    angela Active Member

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    if pb blaster does not work bg makes a product called in-force that works awesome. cracked manifolds are a common problem for the 3rz, and because your manifold is cracked you lose exhaust flow through your egr system. this is what causes your instability at idle.
     
  16. Feb 3, 2010 at 11:11 PM
    #16
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    DynoMax ST, Deck Plate, Full Syn, Soon Header and Slotted Rotors
    Cool Thx!
     
  17. Feb 4, 2010 at 6:35 AM
    #17
    herdnerd

    herdnerd Member

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  18. Feb 4, 2010 at 9:30 PM
    #18
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    DynoMax ST, Deck Plate, Full Syn, Soon Header and Slotted Rotors
    Nice those look cool. But I got The DT Tri Y shipped for not much more. From what I have read I think I will be happy.
     
  19. Feb 13, 2010 at 4:31 PM
    #19
    PacNWgen1

    PacNWgen1 [OP] NewHere

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    DynoMax ST, Deck Plate, Full Syn, Soon Header and Slotted Rotors
  20. Nov 4, 2010 at 6:46 PM
    #20
    dustinclm

    dustinclm Well-Known Member

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    i have this exact problem. can you just weld it back together instead of replacing the headers? my dad is a welder and will be back home from working out of state next week.
    if not, how much are new headers? i do not want to go through the stealership if i dont have to...
    thank guys, this has been a pestering problem for me
     

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