rebuilt rear differential

you would need to buy a limited slip rear out of a TRD or buy a locker kit and have it installed. They will have it opened any way so lockers could be put in, but you would have to buy the locker kit, and they are not cheap

Buying a TRD rear you could put it in yourself ( saving on labor) and you could find a low mileage one thru the data base the yards keep. They ship them from all over the USA to the yard close to you

 

I just talked to the shop owner and he didn't have good news for me .

The rear end is pretty much shot, they took it apart, and found all types of bad news.

Then he told me it would be around $1800 to have it totally rebuilt

fuck, that expensive!

It was difficult to go ahead with such a costly repair, but I went ahead with it.

Sadly though, the repair ate any extra money for the pro comp all black series 8069 rims , and the installation of the TRD 7th injector kit

but all that will come in good time

meanwhile I have to wait around until next monday for the truck to be done

looks like plenty of walking going on until then

 

Hey I'm facing the same type of vibration.. I just got the truck about 2 months ago.. vibration can be felt from the driver side floor board.. it's a rumble strip type vibration but sometimes goes to a constant low rumble from 20mph to 30mph.. now it seems to be even noticeable all the way up to 35mph. Slowing down thru that speed range results in the same vibration. Shifting into N makes no difference. However if I pop into 4Hi, the vibration goes away immediately. Was your symptom similar?

 

I'm in the middle of getting rid of similar vibes. Remove your rear drive shaft and drive FWD to see if it goes away. If so, it's your shaft. Get a CV drive shaft and pitch the rear diff so it's facing the transfer case.

 

Ha.. don't know what you said in that sentence? can you clarify for a noob?

So your issue is identical in that once you pop it into 4Hi it goes away?

 

Yeah, 4wd gets rid of the symptoms, becauseit keeps constant pressure on the driveshaft

Read this
http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html

 

Hmm still not fully understanding your theory on what the issue is.. you think it's an drive shaft angle issue?

 

I picked her up a week or so ago. The vibration is gone in the 25-30 mph range but there is still some slight vibration at higher speeds.

I know I have knobby old tires and was expecting to grab some all black procomp 8069 series wheels soon so I stopped by a trusted tire dealer today. Hopefully by the end of this week or perhaps the beginning of next week off road will get those rims to them and then we can get them and the new tires on this truck.

The shop owner told me he rotated my tires because of teh wear and vibrations issue. Now the vibration that occurs at high speeds is felt more so in the front of the truck. I am guessing some new shoes for her will do some wonders, hopefully

I was told that if this didn't do anythign to the vibration that the only remedy may be a whole new drive shaft. but we'll wait to see what some new shoes do for her in the mean time.

I will post pics with it's new wheels and tires.

 

I talked to the shop owner the other day.

He said if there is still any vibration after the new tires and wheels to let him know.

He suspects the "lift threw off the geometry of the drive line

I had heard of this but never thought it would be an effect of such a nominal lift.
(bilsteins 5100's in the front set at 2.5, new bilsteins in the back, and a Toytec AAL with a 1.5" block)

I have seen some talk on here about shims under the carrier bearing. could this be a potential remedy to some of the drive line vibration?

Anybody dealt with these shims before? Where does one get these shims, what is the install like?, something I can do on my own in the garage?

 

Its already been posted in here

 

For the axle shims to work, you MUST get a CV driveshaft too.

 

alright then, what's that and what do they ? Are there any pics of these Where do you get one? I was searching "drive shafts" and the like just incase this was my last ditch but came up with nothing. Do I have to get a drive shaft( if needed) from Toyota, or is there another reputable manufacturer?

 

I can't speak for the quality of their product, but their explanation is about the best I've found:

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html

 

it might be worth a shot to try a carrier bearing drop.It takes only but a few minutes to do it. Its better to go with an "actual carrier bearing drop" say by toytec, but you could simply stick a few washers in instead. try a 1/4 '' worth of washers. If you dont like it or it didnt change nothing,try maybe a 1/2'' worth of washers or you could take them back out. For just a couple minutes of work its definitly worth a shot. IMO

 

alright a little update on my ,never ending quest to end my truck of this incessant drive line vibration

My wheels and tires and are in! Tomorrow I will have them balanced and put on the truck

I don't think the effect the old, knobby tires had on the vibration were that great but new tires were needed and what the hell?

I also ordered an axle shim kit from toytec yesterday ( ). I asked them for a carrier bearing drop kit as well but they said they don't have 'em for 02 tacomas. I figure I will go with one of the recommendations posted earlier. First try a 1/4" of spacers, if nothing then try a 1/2". If the combination of the new tires and the washers on the carrier bearing then I will go ahead with the axle shim kit.

I was in the dark as to the installation of the axle shim but, a tech at toytec said it can go either on top of the 1.5" lift block on the rear or under it.
Is either one any better? Is there anything else I would need to install the shim? Take in mind the the lift hardware has only been on for a couple months. So it should be alright.

BTW, when I spoke to the tech at toytec, I told them the lift in the back I had, Toytec AAL and a 1.5" block. The tech made a sighing sound and said "u-huh". I asked him what was up. He said they don't recommend using the add a leaf and 1.5" block in conjunction with each other. I found this odd, no one said anything when i bought them together last winter. I guess if bothe carrier bearing with some washers and\ or the axle shim doesn't do anything then I would be forced to take out either the AAl or the block but I am hoping this can be remedied with with out removing any part of the lift, i like it

I should get a lull between gigs here soon. This will give me acouple days to mess around the home and truck and do some trouble shooting. I will let those interested know how it works out.

I f you have any ideas or suggestions please let me know,

thank you and good night

 

so what was wrong with the rear? New Gears and Parts only cost about 450$ not sure how much he charged you for labor.

 

X2 ditch the block.

 

why ditch the block? Won't this cause the back to sag? Or is the AAL enough to keep it up? Just curious. I don't want the front end higher than the back end if non of the solutions work. I am keeping my fingers crossed I don't have to remove anything, I like the way it sits now.