rebuilt rear differential

You are focused on the look of your truck which is a good consideration. But it has to be reliable also.

I had the front on my lift up to a height that was putting my CVs at an angle that was bunching up the boots on the axles. So I lowered the front down about 3/4 in for reliability of the CVs.

The Blocks may be adding to your problem or causing it. When ToyTech said they don't recommend a AAL and a Block they said it for a reason.

 

So What broke? im curious what cost so much money?

 

i have the endless list of everythign that was done to it somewhere, when I come across it again I will let you know. I do remember one part being almost $1000 itself though.

Also update !!!!!!!!!!!!!

the new wheels and tires are on and it looks great. Took it out on the highway the other day and the vibes are not as noticeable, but still a bit there. Those old and worn tires were definitley not helping anything. Got a good deal on some all weather tires from my buddy at a local tire shop, kept the alloys. will pick up some beefier tires in the future and have the all wethers put on the alloys.

Yesterday the shims came in from Toytec. Not sure how these things go on but will figure them out this thursday, there is a small job i will need the truck for for the next two days.

Once i see how these things go on, I'll give her test run with them on. If nothing happens? Then I'll take 'em off and see what cutting the 1.5" block out of the back does.

 

right on man, keep us posted for sure

 

i was told by toytech that these things can on either on top of the block or underneath it. Which one is the best solution? Looks to me to just loosen the the u-bolts and then clamping the leaf springs with a c-clamp. then take the u-blots and the block off and then put the shim with the thinner side facing the front of the vehicle with the larger end towards the back. PUt the u-bolt and bump stop back on and then tighten everything to spec. Wait!!! what were the specs on the u-bolts and the pin?

 

I just got my hub covers and the locking lugs for the new wheels. I figure tomorrow is the best time as any to see what we can do with the blocks and the shims. A couple questions though. I won't need a new u-bolt, because the one on there has only been on there for a couple months. correct? Also, after I take the wheel off and before I loosen the nuts on the u-bolts I should clamp the leaf springs with a c-clamp, correct? Then loosen the nuts on the u-bolt, jack up the read end a bit to take the pressure off and then loosen the c-clamp and slip in the shim under the block, correct? Let me know if you can, thanks

 

i probly wouldnt bother with new ubolts since the ones you have are fairly new but others may disagree. after everythings said and done and you got it all installed after say a weeks worth of driving i would definitly go back and retorque everything just for piece of mind.

 

of course, sure will do. I think they were at 75 ftlbs. though I will have to look it up. I also remember loosening a brake line when I had done it first. I'll have to check it out when I go at it tomorrow.

 

so I had some time today and the weather was a little better so I thought I would try to see what I could do.
After removing the tires, loosening the brake strap above the differential, clamping the leafs shut and taking off the u-bolts I thought everything was going smoothly, I decided to take the block out first and see what it would be like with out it. So I rested the axle on a pair of jack stands just behind the brakes and jacked it up from the rear hitch receiver and then came off on the clamp and ..........nothing the leaf pack didn't raise up. So I took the jack from the end of the truck and put under the frame near the rear tire and jacked it up again. This time, the leafs did open up a bit after taking off the clamp and I was able to wriggle the block free but the packs did not open up that much. What am I doing wrong. I looked up a tutorial on it and it seems to me like I am following the steps correctly but nada

So basically how do you get the leaf packs to open up after you have taken off the u-bolts?

 

I have some free time tomorrow before work, gonna see what a couple of washers under the carrier bearing do. I plan on starting with a 1/4" of em and see what they do. It may not help anything but worth the shot.

 

yah definitly worth a shot man, all ya need is a ratchet and a 9/16 socket. the bigger round the washer the better, just adds more stability to the driveshaft. about a 1/4'' worth of some 1/2'' washers would be a good start.

 

oh and before i forget, do one bolt at a time, remove one bolt completely then add the washers then reinstall the bolt then do the other one. dont want the ds fallin on your head lol

 

just checked under there and it already has about 1/2" of washers, should I add more?

 

there were already some on there? you could try goin with some more but dont put more then what the bolt allows for threads. What size washers were on there?