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Old 05-07-2008, 03:46 AM   #1
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Rear disk brake conversion kits

I have seen many kits for rear disk conversions but all where 95 and older or 2005 and newer.
Anybody knows if there is a 1995-2004 kit out there somewhere?
If not any clues to why?
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Old 05-07-2008, 05:35 AM   #2
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where can i find the 05 or newer kit?
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Old 05-07-2008, 10:38 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonh View Post
where can i find the 05 or newer kit?
I'm sorry, don't remember where I saw that, I know older models can be found here: http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Chassi...iscBrakes.html

just googled to try and figure out where I had seen a kit for 2005+
and found this one (thats my model) http://www.allprooffroad.com/index.p...ask=view&id=33

funny cause I spent past couple days googling the dam thing...
still have to phone in to see if the kit is viable.


sorry can't find it anymore but i'll check later again, I think I had read it on http://www.tacomaterritory.com
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Old 05-07-2008, 11:55 AM   #5
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What is the advantage to rear disc brakes? I had them on my Jimmy (piece of shit) and they were major trouble as soon as you got them dirty. Dirt and little rocks got jammed in there and you end up wearing them out fast on that type of truck. Maybe it was just cause it was an s-truck?
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Old 05-07-2008, 12:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
Be sure to buy another master cylinder & proportioning valve if you plan on going with discs in the rear.....
I'm not quite sure you absolutely need to change the master cylinder but i'm just gathering information for now. I think the main reason is lack of a residual valve in the rear system so disc caliper expand after braking, so adding this valve would keep pads close to disc, ready to brake whitout having to pump pedal before actualy braking. thx for the heads up, i am keeping in mind

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosco75 View Post
What is the advantage to rear disc brakes? I had them on my Jimmy (piece of shit) and they were major trouble as soon as you got them dirty. Dirt and little rocks got jammed in there and you end up wearing them out fast on that type of truck. Maybe it was just cause it was an s-truck?
I can't see why rear discs should get more rocks and dirt then the front ones. I would prolly opt for your last comment about the S-truck.. lol
anyways. One thing for sure is a working handbrake and using it occasionnally is a must if a conversion is made.
On advantage side, there is probably more hassle then real advantage but we have to agree that braking power is greater and looks unbeatable. Top of all you get to say "I have a different truck!"
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonh View Post
where can i find the 05 or newer kit?
http://tundraracing.com/taco%20portal.html

I'm running it on my rig. Not a bad install.



It's not a cheap conversion, and it's true that it's possible to get an entire rebuilt rear with discs for less. But add in the fabrication costs and e-locker and the disc brake conversion comes out on top.
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:34 PM   #8
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http://tundraracing.com/taco%20portal.html

Thanks mjp2
thats where I saw the newer version!
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:44 PM   #9
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I see the difference already. Its all in the location of the caliper! Any debris that comes around with the tire would be brush off and fall with it mounted on the back. The (p.o.s) jimmy had it in the front and the dirt would all get pressed down through it. I had one set of pads last 25k and after that I had to do the rotors and pads again. Expensive and frustrating. Into my second Tacoma now and they rock! Totalled the first one off or I`d still be driving it.
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Old 05-07-2008, 02:52 PM   #10
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thanks for the link. looks like ill have to save up for that mod.
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Old 05-07-2008, 08:11 PM   #11
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Order on the way! The set i'm getting from all pro off road can be installed with caliper right, left or top of axle so pretty neat.
http://www.allprooffroad.com/index.p...ask=view&id=33

too bad the drive shaft parking brake won't fit my model but maybe I could go around this some other way...
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:56 PM   #12
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Thumbs up

Sounds like you are sittin pretty good with your new wheels! Noticed the fleur de lis in your avatar. Bet a lot of people don`t know what that is! I`m a flatlander but if you were here I could show you that Saskatchewan is not so flat! I may need the rear disc brakes yet! You also have a lot of work to do! Good luck with your new truck!
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Old 05-08-2008, 03:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadKill View Post
I'm not quite sure you absolutely need to change the master cylinder but i'm just gathering information for now. I think the main reason is lack of a residual valve in the rear system so disc caliper expand after braking, so adding this valve would keep pads close to disc, ready to brake whitout having to pump pedal before actualy braking. thx for the heads up, i am keeping in mind
I did a disc swap in my jeep and spent 3+ weeks researching. I'm not the type of person to just slap something on....I wanted to make sure it was RIGHT (for as much as I could research and learn).

Master cylinders for discs & drums are different. Disc brakes use more fluid - hence why the resevoir is bigger. And along with that - the internals of the master cylinders could be different from one to the other (I'm not exactly sure of the details).

You have residual pressure (as you mentioned) and you also have metering pressure. Metering pressure allows the drum brakes to activate before the disc brakes (drums take longer to actually activate - another reason why there is residual pressure in the lines).
Here's a neat site with lots of info...
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50014.htm

If you put disc brakes in - you wanna make sure you don't have any metering or residual pressure in the lines. Also - if you have ABS, there's a whole other ball of wax to be concerned with.

When I swapped to discs in my Jeep (non-ABS)- I replaced the master cylinder with a disc/disc setup and I also swapped the Prop valve box with a disc/disc one also. It's not that hard...you just gotta make sure you do your homework.
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Old 05-08-2008, 04:10 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosco75 View Post
Sounds like you are sittin pretty good with your new wheels! Noticed the fleur de lis in your avatar. Bet a lot of people don`t know what that is! I`m a flatlander but if you were here I could show you that Saskatchewan is not so flat! I may need the rear disc brakes yet! You also have a lot of work to do! Good luck with your new truck!
Thx Rosco, I know it's not that flat out there, hope you are able to get your kit too. I live in the mountains, just love those roller coaster roads here

Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
I did a disc swap in my jeep and spent 3+ weeks researching. I'm not the type of person to just slap something on.....
I am

Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
Master cylinders for discs & drums are different. Disc brakes use more fluid - hence why the resevoir is bigger. And along with that - the internals of the master cylinders could be different from one to the other (I'm not exactly sure of the details).
The sales rep assured me that it would be just fine with my original master cylinder. I still take it as a "sales rep opinion" but still if its not up to expectation I am ready to change it. Finding a master to fit on tacoma brake booster might be harder then changing the whole booster/master assembly since bolt partern on firewall is relatively easy to change


Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
You have residual pressure (as you mentioned) and you also have metering pressure. Metering pressure allows the drum brakes to activate before the disc brakes (drums take longer to actually activate - another reason why there is residual pressure in the lines).
Here's a neat site with lots of info...
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf50014.htm
Good link, thx
Not to brag on about myself but I do have 12 years of experience in motorcycle and automobile mechanics before I went back to university to do something else. I still enjoy wrenching @home, I have my own little set up in my garage. This brake conversion is the kind of challenge I like, some people like to knit, i like to mod


Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
If you put disc brakes in - you wanna make sure you don't have any metering or residual pressure in the lines. Also - if you have ABS, there's a whole other ball of wax to be concerned with.
No ABS on my model, I wouldn't recommend anybody to try this mod with ABS, thats looking for trouble specially with sensors and sensor rails on axles.
About metering valve, at first glance I don't think it would be a problem, its just a sync timing, it only waits for pressure from back lines before applying to front and that is ok. But still, metering valve can be changed too.

Adding a residual valve will be necessary with disc brakes because not having one will make disc pads back off from disc when letting go the brake pedal, just like brake shoes back off (with some help from spring assembly) but still backs off, we don't want this to happend brake pedal pumping is not cool.
So with a residual valve, rear disc will activate sooner and settle metric valve quicker.

Thanks for your input Janster, its all good points to think about first.
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Old 05-08-2008, 10:20 AM   #15
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[QUOTE=RoadKill;90212]

Adding a residual valve will be necessary with disc brakes because not having one will make disc pads back off from disc when letting go the brake pedal, just like brake shoes back off (with some help from spring assembly) but still backs off, we don't want this to happend brake pedal pumping is not cool.
So with a residual valve, rear disc will activate sooner and settle metric valve quicker.

Thanks for your input Janster, its all good points to think about first.[/QUOTE

You don't want a residual valve on disc brakes....they (pads) are already built to sit extremely close to the rotor.

You already have residual pressure with drum brakes.

Having residual pressure in a disc brake system might cause the disc pads to rub on the rotor at all times (drag) and wear out quicker.
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Old 05-08-2008, 12:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
You don't want a residual valve on disc brakes....they (pads) are already built to sit extremely close to the rotor.

You already have residual pressure with drum brakes.

Having residual pressure in a disc brake system might cause the disc pads to rub on the rotor at all times (drag) and wear out quicker.
Quote:
Originally Posted by www.allprooffroad.com
The stock Pickup and 4Runner master cylinder rigs are designed for discs brakes up front and drums in the rear. It does not have a residual valve for use with rear disc brakes. Without a rear residual valve in the system the rear disc pads expand after braking. This causes excess peddle travel the next time you step on the brakes. To solve this we sell a FJ80 brake master cylinder that is equipped with two residual valves, one for the front system and one for the rear. It's 1" bore size is larger than older 13/16" bore cylinders for more fluid volume.
Quote:
Originally Posted by www.downeyoff-road.com
Disc brakes require 2 lbs. residual pressure to keep the pads at the rotors (so you don’t have to pump pads up to the rotors each time you brake).


not from what I read everywhere else
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Old 05-13-2008, 07:40 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Janster View Post
Got links to show everyone?
yeah sure, http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Chassi...iscBrakes.html

http://www.all-prooff-road.peachhost..._PR5600-ap.htm

I'm actually going to use downey's master cylinder since it has a 1inch 1/16 bore diameter.
I also talked to Downey's fabricator, I think his name was Jim if I remember correctly. Very nice gentleman who gave me an hour history lesson on there disk kit conversion over past years.
He pointed out that there was no conversion kit for the 95-04 tacomas due to ABS and no demand at all for the product but the pre 95 kits would fit right on with a non-abs model like mine ;-)
Anyways, explained to me also how to adjust my factory meteringcvalve and use their master cylinder as-is. He is convinced that I will not need extra residual valves or metering valve.

What he suggested was ton install the whole set-up, bleed it and bring it to a brake pro, a top notch shop to have them bled by pressure machine to make sure no more air was in system (hand bled always remains some air)
Finnaly they could mesure pressure to front and rear hydrolics and have them calibrated then.

I will make sure to keep you guys posted along the process. I should get all my parts in a week or so. Meantime, been busy with downey's header set, very nice sound to this
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