Desperate need of some help...

the story so far:

few months ago, i noticed my rear diff was leaking. no big deal, had it filled, until i had the time to fix the seal myself.

finally, i went to toyota and bought the new gasket, not the pinion seal, but the carrier gasket.

we got it all ripped apart, did the thing, and put it back together.

problem: after it was all said and done, i started it up, and drove it around the coldesac (sp?) the rear was locked. how did this happen? i dunno. it has a locker, but throwing the switch did nothing.

does anyone know anything about these third members? i'm so confused, and really need some help.

when i had the thing out, i was messing around with the locking mechanism and it was in the out position when we put it in. is that locked? if so, how do i fix it... thanks

 

I am on my 3rd, third member right now...what kind of noise is it making?

 

if you switched it to locked then put it back together while the switch was off it could be that the electrics cant unlock it since you set it in locked position with switch in open... locking or unlocking the switch will result in it going from locked to past locked (grinding or clicking noise will happen) the switch operates the locker in only one position so if you manually moved it the motor will no longer pull it back.... no big deal...take it apart again... unlock it manually with switch in unlocked ... re-assemble and you should be good to go. if not sell it to me and I'll send ya an open diff LOL

 

Heh, open diff...

i'll park it till i can save the thousand or so to buy a new one if thats the case... lol, that locker has gotten me out of some harry shiznits.

we got it fixed by the way. i got this crazy idea to put the actuator in in the locked position and turn it off from the cab. that unlocked it. atleast it did in 4wd..

i can't remember from before, but after we got it unlocked, i put it in 4wd on the street and went to turn at low speed. is it normal for the rear to hop? or do i really need to tear it apart again and re-set everything?

 

If the rear is hopping, you're most likely still locked in.

 

It's wierd though... cuz it doesn't hop when i'm in 2wd

i had a friend climb under the diff and listen to it when i shift into 4wd

he said it doesn't lock in when it goes into 4, but the rear hops.

4hi or 4 low, it hops. serious problem?

 

no one can help me? i always seem to have these weird problems too.

 

if you put any 4wd in 4wd on pavement and turn sharp you will get some hop from the front tires trying to pull the rear around ... best way to see if its locked all the time? honestly is go to an area in grass that isnt valuable and nail it once... then lcok the locker nail it again like next to the spot... if you got both rears turning on one and not the other its not locked.... your truck has auto hubs I would assume doesnt it... so no way for you to do the rear only even in 4wd or 4lo... like i can since I have manual hubs

 

that is probably the BEST test anyone anywhere has ever given me. i'm going out right now to tear up some grass.

and no, i still have ADD hubs. i am planning on swapping them out once i do my SAS. why do all the work now?

 

i could always do the gray wire mod, then my hubs wouldn't matter, eh?

 

lol yeah thats true .. hit me up for sas stuff lol I have it laying around .. what gears your truck have? 4.10 or those sweet 4.30's...or the ultra sweet 4.56's lol

 

hmmm, how mmuch of what i would need for SAS do you have? how much would you want for everything i need?

and to answer your question, i don't know what gears i have yet. i'd like to upgrade tho... 70mph is almost 2500rpm. running 33's.

 

ummm I posted somewhere on here the chart for gears going off your door jam sticker.....thenrie's thread I think I'll look and post link...as for the sas I have the axle (dana 44 drivers drop) the brake lines..the steering box , the springs , the shock mounts.....oh and the steering shaft but I would need another stock taco one for my truck other wise I'll chop the sas one up for my project lol

as for price depends on what all you want and also what gears you have in your stock housings lol I might be willing to do some horse trading for partial credit LOL

 

sorry it was toy4lifes post...thenrie was just a major contributor lol

THIS CHART IS FOR '95.5-04 MODELS ONLY!
The axle code for your rig can be found on the manufacture's sticker located on the driver's side door jamb as follows:

First digit:

A = 7.5" ring gear
B = 8" ring gear
Next two digits:

01 = 3:42
02 = 3:58
03 = 4:10
04 = 4:56
05 = 3:15
06 = 3:91
07 = 4.30
Last digit:

A = 2 Pinion, Open
B = 4 Pinion, Open
C = 2 Pinion OEM Limited Slip
some '98-00 models have shown a BO code of "???" on the door plate; so far this turns out to be a 3.91 gear ratio, at least for the 5sp. RZN171L-CRPDKAB with factory 31s/265s should be 4.56 with the AT.