future system?

I'll start off saying that I have absolutely no experience with car audio but have done a little research. I am interested in building a system with good quality sound at a reasonable price. so I have already bought the head unit pioneer avic 920bt and it should be here any day now. Now I am looking for at purchasing and installing this amp

Pioneer GM-D9500F Class-FD 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier

and these speakers

MB Quart Premium PVI216 6.5" 2-Way Component/Convertible Coaxial Speakers
I am hoping to add a 10 inch sub in the future probably an Image dynamics 10 from taco tunes. When bridged would this amp be sufficient in powering the sub as well? also should I purchase the sub in 2 0hm or 4 ohm with this amp?

all replies welcome

 

In my 1998 Tacoma, I have 3 sets of MB Quart PVI 216. They sound awesome! I had to turn the tweeters down though. -5db on rears and front doors, -3db on the kick panels.

I am powering everything by Alpine PDX-5 (75x4 watts plus a 300 x1 watts to the sub). The Alpine PDX-5 is super small and powerful amp. I have a JL Audio 10" sub in a StealthBox. In my opinion, the MB Quarts & JL Audio could safely handle twice the power I am putting out.

I think the MB Quart speakers sound great at any price but, for the price they are on Amazon, they are a steal!

 

awesome to hear you like these speakers so much i can't wait to hear them for myself. so do you think that this amp will be enough power

 

I have never heard the amp you are talking about but, I don't think that it has enough power to push your entire system plus a sub. For $100.00 more, I would buy the Alpine PDX-5. The Pioneer is a 4 channel amp, the Alpine is a 5 channel amp.

If you do buy the Pioneer amp, you will probably have to buy another amp in the future to push the sub.

 

dang, i was buying pioneer for the 30% off on Amazon right now. I am trying to save as much as possible. I know its only 4 channels but i was planning on just running the mb quartz up front and a sub on the other two channels in the near future. this amp claims 200rms when bridged at 4 ohm is this probably not enough. Also if i choose to run a 2 ohm sub that basically doubles the power right ? sorry about all the questions AGAIN I DO NOT HAVE A CLUE ABOUT CAR AUDIO

 

The 4 channel is sufficient as you mentioned. Run the fronts on 2 channels and bridge the other two channels for the sub. No need to run rear speakers in my opinion but that's preference. Good luck and please keep us updated.

 

i appreciate the help tacoporn, what type sub would you recommend for this setup 2 ohm or 4 ohm

 

Yes if you are not running rear speakers, this amp will be fine.

 

The audible difference in 200 vs 300 watts on a sub probably isn't very much. I'd say go for the Pioneer amp. My first instinct was also the PDX5 but I think that Pioneer amp should be fine as long as you don't want people to hear you coming down the road. I'd make sure you get the ported enclosure for that sub.

As for the 4ohm or 2ohm suggestion, don't even THINK about getting the 2ohm sub if you're going to be bridging the amp. That amp isn't 2ohm stable so it would likely blow it up. Get the 4ohm sub.

 

subbed.

Great info in here.

 

Even if he is running rear speakers he could run them in parallel with the front speakers on the front channels. That would yield a 2ohm load on each of the front channels which is fine. The amp just isn't 2ohm stable in bridged mode.

 

Yeah, I know but, I did not want to confuse him. I wrote the following (before TacoPorn responded about him not having rear speakers) but, I did not know if he would understand it:

I forgot about the 30% thing. You can run your entire system off of a 4 channel amp. You will not have fader control from the front to the rear though.

You will take channels 1 + 2 and make them into your mids and highs channel. Since each MB quart is 4 ohms, when wired in parallel your amp will see a 2 ohm level. Your Pioneer amp will produce 100 watts into each channel. So each speaker in that channel will see 50 watts.

Then, you will take channels 3 + 4 and bridge them. This will make 200 watts into one channel for your sub(s). This amp does not say if it is stable into a 2 ohm level when bridges, so you will probably need a 4 ohm sub. If you wire it up bridged into lower than 4 ohms, you can screw the amp up.

 

wow thanks for the great info. I was planning on going with the idqv3 in a ********* sealed box why ported ?

 

Exactly right. I don't think it would really matter though since the rears will be quieter as a result of being farther away. He will still retain the left and right balance.

A ported enclosure is more efficient at lower frequencies near tuning which is where the amplifier will need to put out the most power to get a nice deep sound. In non stereophile terms, it will hit the lows harder with less power which is likely what you'll want with only 200watts.

 

But a ported box will need more airspace. He'll need to watch out for how much room he wants to take up.

 

the method you described (front channel for front speakers and the rear bridged for the sub) will be a great way to go. i would not run back speakers at all.

 

I'm pretty sure that Mr. Marv makes a ported box for that area behind the left most rear seat that will fit an Image Dynamics 10 or maybe a 12. Give him a shout in his forum to see what's up.

 

I recommend you take a look into MTX you can pick up a 4 channel and a class D mono block for a little more then your going to pay for the pioneer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/MTX-AUDIO-JH404...AMPLIFIER-404-/170528735002?pt=Car_Amplifiers

http://cgi.ebay.com/MTX-AUDIO-JH300...=320543365963&ps=63&clkid=6194896678016369938

I just installed the JH300 in my buddy's car with a MTX 10" T7500RD 44 and it's pounds hard.

 

^Two amps, even for a similar $$$ amount, pays the price with space being the collateral

 

Very true, it's all a trade-off.

I have run a separate main and sub amp for some time now. Wondered why I added that complexity several times. It paid off a few years ago though when the sub amp went belly up. Much cheaper to replace the sub only amp, then to replace a combo main/sub amp. Plus, can at least listen to something if one of the amps goes.