Let's see your hydraulic bump stops

i bought my cans from these guys

total chaos 2.0 4130 cans $25 each

https://www.sdtruckshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=327

 

I'm not really having difficulty finding cans. Its attaching the cans to the chassis that I'm concerned with. Polyperformance makes some prefabbed gussets but the guy I saw on ttora might have fabbed his gusset. Not sure.

 

I'm pretty sure that nwitaco made those brackets. Find a local fabricator and have them help you out.

 

Whats u bump stop?

 

what?

 

lol, What IS a bump stop?

 

X2

 

the things on the right are air bumps... what the OP was talking about

 

Matt don't tease me like that. That's like porn to me haha

I want those bumps

 

I was thinking about going to 2.5s if you want my used King 2.0s with new cans.

 

Tempting but I think i'm going with some used jounce shocks because they come with brackets that mount with basic hardware. I don't have a mig welder and I've been told the narrow striker on air bumps will eventually destroy the lower control arm. Not sure if that part is true but that's what I I've been told. Are your air bumps 4" out of curiosity?

 

i would go with 06Haole's kings... that way, when ready for LT, you can use the kings still...

 

I will totally disagree with not having to run a bump on the front end. I don't run a bump in the front end cause I don't want to strike off the lower arm and cant afford to build me an engine cage. I have pushed my upper control arms through the sheet metal of the engine bay cause I don't run front bumps. Most people that don't have the rear suspension done will not have an issue cause you cant push the truck hard enough with out the back end bucking around.

On the engage kit you will have to have them add a strike pad or you can add it yourself to strike off the lower arm. With out reinforcing the arm where the bump hits you can dent/damage the lower arm.

Why can't you mix match? Ive seen many trucks using king,fox,sway-away,f-o-a, cluster, bilstein, radflo shocks with king, fox, sway-away, f-o-a, cluster, bilstein, radflo bumps. Look at Johnnys truck when he had it King shocks, bilstein bumps. The plow ran kings shocks up front with king bumps but sway away bypass in the rear. They preformed just fine.

 

I couldnt tell you about the narrower strike pads on the lower arms. Its all about the reinforcement of the LCA regardless of what you go with.

Yes they are all 4" bumps.

 

yah but they werent running jounce bumps with LT... if OP's options are Jounce or Kings, why not go with the Kings?

 

True kings are a better option if you striking off the upper uniball bolt. I don't know if king makes 2" bump to strike off the lower arm cause a 4" on the lower arm is to much. But the Jounce bumps will be fine as along as your striking on the lower arm and not the upper uniball bolt.

 

^^^^Exactly my concern. I'm striking on the lower control arm without modifying the lower control arm strike plate. I believe the Jounce will be a better fit for me given my front suspension isn't long travel. If I did have long travel I would be all over those kings however.

My buddy's Ranger that was mid travel front with 4" air bumps was constantly striking even when he was barely pushing the truck. I think 4" is just too long for me.

 

doing some research of my own for a very similar reason as you OP, and i came across these http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Ballistic-Hydraulic-Bump-stop_p_1567.html if you go with the larger diameter one, the striker looks to be a decent amount wider, helping with your concern about not busting up the LCA. it also comes in a 2'' trave, instead of just the 4''. and they aren't too pricey either.

 

For less money I would go with a Fox, sway away, or bilstein. For 10bucks more go with a king bumpstop. I look at that if you ever have to rebuild them the bigger companies are going to be a lot easier to get parts for.

 

huh, didn't even think to look at swayaway or bilstein......disregard previous post