Batt Cap or Big 3?

$190 I think, Sears Diehard Platinum. EXACT same thing as an Odyssey, just rebadged for Sears.

 

HELLL YEAH thanks man, good lookin out

 

id this the one?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02850080000P?mv=rr

there's P1 to P3 that I have seen so far. also how did you get your OE terminals to the side posts?

 

No, mine is a P-4, 880 CCA's (group 34/78 DT I think.) I can't find it on the site, but it wasn't on there when I got mine either, then showed up again after. So you may have to go to a physical store to track one down. Just be sure to get the little tray that snaps on the bottom for it to sit on. That P-3 may very well work though, I don't see why not. I can't even remember honestly why I settled on the P-4.

As for the factory terminals, the negative reached. The positive one I had to extend the lead coming off the fusebox. It's the lead coming off the terminal that shoots strait up vertically in my picture, with the wire loom around it. That wasnt' hard, but getting the upper part of the fusebox off so you could access the connections was a PITA. You have to pop the lid off, then basically undo 5 snap points on the upper part of the fusebox to get to the lower part where the connections are. Not easy and fast, but not hard either.

 

I'm going to go with the P4 instead just to be on the safe side. Hopefully it won't be too hard for me to do, the power leads looks very tricky as it is, the neg. leads are a snap I already have that one planned out. Thanks again, trying to get this battery as a xmas present to myself.

 

It's easy to do, just a bit time consuming dealing with the fuse box. And that isn't that bad.

Just remember when/if you do the Big 3 to the alternator, you really shouldn't need 1/0g on there. That's such a short run of wire (like 18"), a good quality 4g wire will handle that current just fine. The post to connect it to on the alternator is very small, and doesn't have much extra threads on it even with just the stock connection.

I'm still not sold on the idea that that portion of the big 3 is of value and worth it. I did it initially in 1/0g when I was going to run several old school Phoenix Gold Ti amps, but since I went with a JL HD, there's just not that much current pull from the stereo. So that, and I wasn't really satisfied with the connection I used, I just pulled that cable altogether.

My "big 2" now consists of the neg battery terminal to the chassis, and neg batt terminal to the alternator housing (basically the engine block). I've got another 1/0g cable laying around that I may try to connect the chassis to the engine block for craps and giggles.