Light Racing UCA install ?

The dremel blades I have are Kevlar reinforced and are pretty strong. I cut throughout a bolt trice as thick once using just one blade, so I'm hoping they do the trick...

 

do it

 

The bolts were part #

$21 90105-A0095 Axle Flange Bolt

90105-A0095. They cost me $11.72 each. I thought it was well worth it!

Fab, I think the dremel will probably cut it alright but be careful with those cutting wheels! From my experience they cut great but if you get them in a bind they can fly into a million pieces at about 15,000 rpm's. Definately wear a face shield or at least glasses and something over your face. Better safe than sorry!

 

Thanks for the part # Viking , I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow .

 

oh wow I just saw this thread, I also installed the LR UCAs this past weekend. As for the bolts that hold the stock UCA in, I bent the sheet metal right above the bolt head out towards where the tire would be, for the left side I took out the battery completely, and just tapped the bolt out slowly. Bolt came right out with a few taps, didn't bend, and slid right back in.

 

I installed mine this past weekend and I too just bent the sheet metal out of the way and tapped the bolt right out. It was no big deal, it only took me about 1.5 hrs for the install.

 

Subbed

 

I know on my truck the bolts seemed to line up dead center with the inner fender. On the drivers side I'm pretty sure I would of had to remove my battery assembly and maybe other items so that I could start bending the inner fender and it looked like I would have to bend it for almost the full length of the bolt. The bolts cost me a total of $24 but the install only took about 20 minutes per side (and if I had to do it again I could beat that). I think I saved more than $24 in frustration.

 

this is worth its weight in gold to get the spindle separated from the UCA....turn turn turn POP, shes apart. (just leave the nut loose on the spindle, cuz if not.....the UCA will meet your upper fender well, ask me how i know)

I bought new UCA bolts and didn't even need them, my old ones slid out just fine.

 

So nothing was in the way of your stock uca bolts?

 

Nah, just bent back a little of the fender like everyone else. Took the rubber splash guards off to access everything better.

 

Ya I hear ya on the splash guards, just yanked them off from the top, they tore so I poked new holes and zip tied.

 

I'm just got my hands on a set of Light Racing UCA's, they didn't come with the castle nut, can I use the the the castle nut off of the stock ball joint?
I'll need to source the 4 "spacers"-washers also, that looks like a easy find.

 

Bump

 

Anyone doing these arms I highly recommend buying the new bolt from toyota and installing backwards. It is very possible to get the bolt out by bending the fender with channel locks from the inside of the wheel well but takes time. took roughly 30 minutes per side to get the bolt out and back in for me, and that was frustrating. Its a royal pain in the butt. However installing the blot backwards with a new one you run the risk in the event the main nut backs off that your bolt could back out more likely then if the bolt is installed from the top. Probably worth the risk but i'm meticulous so I did it the same as it was before.

Gotta say I love these UCA's but the caster setting is still confusing me so I did it like the video and we will see what the alignment guys think and do to adjust from here. So far it seems like the tires are sitting more \ / then they were before so maybe I did the ball joint setting backwards. any ideas? furthermore anyone have a pic of how they have the SPC logo and the metal adjustment plate set? The camber makes sense but that little chart for caster is worthless

 

\ / is camber

The SPC logo should be facing out , away from the truck , for the neutral setting .

 

This is worth reading

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...earance-driving-report-light-racing-ucas.html

 

Thanks. Knew I'd mess something up in the write up. Swap caster with camber for all reading the above!

 

I'm probably the only one with this question. When the UCAs ship eh have rubber caps on each opening...am I supposed to remove them befor install??? Envy picture I've seen has them without the caps, but when I pulled on them it seemed like they were one solid piece all the way through the hole...thoughts?

 

what?