LR UCA'S WASHERS

I have a question. I finished installing a 3" ome lift on my truck last weekend with LR uca's. I researched the heck out of it. I crossed my t's and dotted my i's. Except according to the directions, for the first and last washers that go on the uca bolt. The directions show the stock larger washers "backing" up the uca bushings with the smaller washers on the outside. I for some reason did the opposite. I searched this website and have found pictures where it was done both ways and the install video makes no mention of the extra washers either. I'm planning on correcting it but those bolts were a pita to remove and I am wondering what other people's opinions are on this.

 

There shouldn't be any real issue with the way you did it.
The earlier LR's didn't come with those washers. That is probably why the bushings were tearing. They claimed that it was the wrong durometer rubber that they used, but I suspected that it was the lack of movement of the inner sleeve.
I guess the washers is there solution to allow the inner sleeve to move. Mine doesn't have the washers.

I was working on replacing the rubber with poly bushings. Just never got around to finishing.
Here's the thread if you're interested?
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/96552-lr-uca-bushing-mod.html

But the way you installed them should still allow the movement and should NOT be a problem.

Makes me wonder if I should install washers? Maybe when I have the time I'll look into it?

 

I actually found you from that thread. I'm going to call SPC on Monday to see what their take is. The soonest I'll have to redo them will be next Sunday.

 

The fat washer always goes up against the bushing to distribut the load from the side forces over a larger surface area.

jeepmor

 

that would be true, BUT the washers are large enough to cover the surface area of the steel sleeve that runs through the bushing. So the additional size of the stock washer doesn't really do anything.

The primary washer and the most important is the ones on the inner side of the bushing. The UCA bolt tube on the frame tower is the stationary part that the bushing need a bearing surface. The actual bolt and the UCA's can move as one unit with NO issues. The binding would occur between the stationary tube and the bushing. So the inner washer is the most important.

Now if your main bolt wasn't lubricated and the bolt itself became frozen to the main tube? Then the outer washers would become important.

 

I called SPC this morning and talked to tech support. They said the the placement of the outside washers didn't matter. They said all that matters is that when done with the install, the uca's can freely move up and down.

 

Glad to hear you got confirmation!
I knew it wasn't an issue.

 

Yeah, I'm glad I don't have to take those bolts out again. The passenger side was fine, but I am still recovering from doing the driver's side

 

My mistake, glad you didn't have to yard it all apart again.

 

Thanks for the info in this thread, fellas. I recently installed the LR UCAs using the old installation instructions I printed off from the web, which means I only put on the 2 inner washers. Was curious why I had 4 washers left over, and then found the included (newer) instructions at the bottom of the box under a piece of cardboard. I'm OCD, so I may redo both.

I got the Firestone lifetime alignment 2 weeks ago and they forgot to straighten my steering wheel. Hopefully it doesn't really have to be 6,000 miles between alignments...

PS - does the concave side of the large factory washers face inwards (i.e. toward the bushings) or outwards? and how would that placement affect adding the SPC outer washers?

 

Ill have to check under the truck after work.