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My "who knows where this is going" 2013 Tacoma Build

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Old 02-07-2013, 05:01 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by Olson View Post
that should look sick.. im gonna be plasti-dipping my valence tomorrow along with my recieiver.. that or im gonna sand it down and repaint it. what looks better painting or plasti-dip?
It depends on two things; the look youre going for and how much effort you want to put into it. Paint gives you more look options (high gloss, semi, satin, etc) but as you know requires more prep. Plastidip requires very little prep (mostly just masking off what you don't want painted) and only has one look to it which is a matte black/dark gray color to it. Some say the plastidip will fade in the sun after a while which paint won't do nearly as quickly. I've only recently used plastidip for the first time so don't have personal experience with its long term results. For my situation, plastidip gave my emblems a different look than the body paint and it makes them stand out and I like that.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:12 AM   #62
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Also live in Ventura county and am looking to pickup a similar truck. Wondering which dealer you went with and how much you ended up paying? This would be my third Toyota pickup. Bought one way back in 1986 (my folks are still running it around) and again in 1995 (lasted 225k miles until it lost a battle with a Lincoln Navigator). Both times had lots of FUN dealing with the dealer. Would rather not play the "paper shuffle" with someone. My last two Hondas were bought this way. Just walked in, told them I didn't want to dicker, gave them a fair price, and drove out in a couple of hours.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:33 AM   #63
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Quote:
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Also live in Ventura county and am looking to pickup a similar truck. Wondering which dealer you went with and how much you ended up paying? This would be my third Toyota pickup. Bought one way back in 1986 (my folks are still running it around) and again in 1995 (lasted 225k miles until it lost a battle with a Lincoln Navigator). Both times had lots of FUN dealing with the dealer. Would rather not play the "paper shuffle" with someone. My last two Hondas were bought this way. Just walked in, told them I didn't want to dicker, gave them a fair price, and drove out in a couple of hours.
I was in the dealership for 1 hour and 45 minutes total and drove off with my new truck. I did most of the pre-work via email. filled out their credit app online, and they worked me a deal before I even stepped foot onto the lot. This has been the least painful purchase I've been through. I got mine at Hamer Toyota in Mission Hills. I wouldn't necessarily say they were the best but I got what I wanted at a price I was willing to pay. That being said, I didn't get the best price in the world however I had some factors going against me (below-average credit).

My advice to you is this:

First, figure out your ideal timeline (when you plan on beginning your vehicle search and how soon you estimate you're ready to make a deal and begin making payments) and figure out how much you can really afford (don't forget to take into account insurance and yearly registration)

Second, get your credit score when you're about 1-2 months away from actually working a deal (some credit agencies make updates every 30-45 days.)

Third, find financing from an outside source (credit unions typically offer better APR's but also any bank should be able to meet or beat the best deal the dealership will try to get you). If you can get pre-approved, you basically go from dealer to dealer with a blank check and see who'll sell it to you for the lowest amount.

Last, Be prepared to walk away from every dealership until you find one that gives you the price you want. It's hard to walk away from your potentially new baby...but if you really are concerned about price, then it's not your baby until the price is right.

Be firm and don't let them dick you around. When pricing, think about a couple things: 1) the dealer gets the truck from the manufacturer for a lot less than they're willing to admit; 2) the dealer gets somewhere around 3% back from the manufacturer for selling a new vehicle regardless of it's selling price. So they're ALWAYS going to make some money on a new vehicle sale.

Also, the internet is a GREAT resource for buying new vehicles. there's tons of info out there like these sites:
http://www.carbuyingtips.com/
http://www.dealertricks.com/

and remember...you're not there to make friends, you're there to win the battle between you and the dealership...the salesperson is NOT your new best friend regardless of how nice he/she may be.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:30 AM   #64
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Thanks. I'll check out Hamer Toyota when I'm ready to roll. There a bit outta the way (I'm out by the coast), but it might be worth it to drive a bit to save a lot. Think I dicker with dealers a lot like you do. Pretty much know what price they'll take before I go in and walk in asking them if they want a quick, easy deal. Thankfully I don't have to worry about the credit. Have good credit and usually am able to take advantage of the teaser rates the dealers offer (my last two cars were at 0.9 and 1.9 respectively). Thanks for your help.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:56 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skeighter View Post
Thanks. I'll check out Hamer Toyota when I'm ready to roll. There a bit outta the way (I'm out by the coast), but it might be worth it to drive a bit to save a lot. Think I dicker with dealers a lot like you do. Pretty much know what price they'll take before I go in and walk in asking them if they want a quick, easy deal. Thankfully I don't have to worry about the credit. Have good credit and usually am able to take advantage of the teaser rates the dealers offer (my last two cars were at 0.9 and 1.9 respectively). Thanks for your help.
Awesome! Can't wait to see another Taco out there. And if I can give one word of advice, GET 4x4!!!! That's my only small regret about my purchase...I wish I held out until someone had the 4x4 version of the TRD sport...but don't think I would have been able to get it with the longbed. As much as I appreciate the longer bed, If I had to choose between longbed and 4x4 I 'd go 4x4 next time.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:45 PM   #66
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Good start on the build so far! I got the same truck but 4x4. Just looking for ideas for mods to hold me over till I finally get a full OME lift, wheels, and tires. Here's some mods that I've done so far:

1. Debadged and painted grille emblem black:
2. Stubby TRD antenna: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A34LG9W/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_1
3. Lamin-X tail lights, 3rd brake lights, and side mirror lights: http://www.lamin-x.com/Toyota-Tacoma...-up-s/1445.htm
4. BHLM: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...html#post45442
5. Window tint: 30% front and 5% back
6. Hood struts
7. Relocated horn
8. Secure bed mat mod
9. Alpine subwoofer, sub box, and amplifier
10. LED map and dome lights
11. Fog light anytime mod
12. Ultragauge

I was actually thinking of bronze wheels also. (FN Wheels BFD)
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:54 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rka View Post
Good start on the build so far! I got the same truck but 4x4. Just looking for ideas for mods to hold me over till I finally get a full OME lift, wheels, and tires. Here's some mods that I've done so far:

1. Debadged and painted grille emblem black:
2. Stubby TRD antenna: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A34LG9W/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_1
3. Lamin-X tail lights, 3rd brake lights, and side mirror lights: http://www.lamin-x.com/Toyota-Tacoma...-up-s/1445.htm
4. BHLM: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...html#post45442
5. Window tint: 30% front and 5% back
6. Hood struts
7. Relocated horn
8. Secure bed mat mod
9. Alpine subwoofer, sub box, and amplifier
10. LED map and dome lights
11. Fog light anytime mod
12. Ultragauge

I was actually thinking of bronze wheels also. (FN Wheels BFD)
Thanks, man! Yeah, I wish I looked around a little more for the 4x4 version of mine. At the time I honestly thought they didn't make the longbed Sport in 4x4...thought it was only the shortbed. But now that I know, I might be looking to trade this in a couple years down the road for a 4x4. Who knows...

You've done a lot of the mods I want to do...looks like I should be looking to YOU for ideas of what to mod next!
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:19 AM   #69
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Hey shauncho, I might be selling my wheels n tires soon if you're interested.
Pro. Comp 7089's with bfg at 265/70/17's
Ahh man, I'd love to but I'm working on saving for my lift next. I was just gonna paint my TRD's black. But I appreciate the thought. I'm sure you'll have no problem selling them.

Why you getting rid of them? what are you getting next?
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:31 AM   #71
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No worries...I think ill be getting some scs or konigs in bronze next..or gunmetal, not sure yet.
NICE! can't wait to see what you get.
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Old 08-21-2013, 11:06 AM   #72
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WOW...it's been a while

Nothing really new to update. Been taking some time off from the forums for no other reason that to stop me from hurting my wallet any further. That and work has been CRAY CRAY busy. Speaking of work, so we just moved to a new building...a building with an underground parking garage...a parking garage where the clearance is so low I don't think I'll be able to do the lift kit I was planning on...or any lift for that matter. With the angle of the driveway coming into the garage I already almost scrape the top as it is let alone if I lifted it a couple inches. As it is my antenna scraps along the ceiling beams as i drive through to park. So that kinda bummed me out on mods too...really was hoping to do that lift as my next mod but looks like it'll never happen until we move again or I get a different job.

so that's about it. Hope everyone's doing well and modding the fuck outta their shit so I can live vicariously through you!
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:26 PM   #74
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Mia like a mofo....haven't seen you around town either.
I may be selling my wheels if you're interested....not sure if you got em yet.
hahaha, yeah I pretty much disappeared. And you haven't seen me around anymore cause my company moved to Woodland Hills a few months ago so I'm not out in your neck of the woods anymore.

I'm broke as a joke so no truck parts for me right now. I'll see if they're still available when I've got some cash again.
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:27 PM   #75
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Nice truck.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:00 AM   #76
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Nice truck.
Thanks!
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:06 AM   #77
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So, I decided to take off my sway bar. I like it a lot better. A little more body roll but it's not as bad as some people make it out to be. Can't wait to take it offroad now to see what kinda flex I can get out of this stock suspension.

Speaking of suspension, after re-examining my parking garage situation at work, I'm thinking I might just barely be able to get away with a 3" lift. I'm going to go out there and measure soon so I can start planning.

But that's not important now because the BIG news (if you can call it that) is that i'll finally be doing my BHLM this weekend!!! I'm so freakin excited and scared at the same time. But I know that if I just take my time, I'll be ok. I'll try to remember to take pictures of this one so I can post for all to see. Will report back when I'm all done. Wish me LUCK!!
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:45 PM   #78
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BHLM UPDATE - PART 1
So I've started my BHLM. Wanted to take detailed pics just for fun so here they are. Also thought I'd document it in case any part of this process is different for the '12/'13/'14 models than for previous models.

***DISCLAIMER!! THESE ARE ONLY MY EXPERIENCES. I TAKE ABSOLUTELY NOT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR VEHICLE INCURRED BY FOLLOWING MY ACTIONS DESCRIBED HERE. THIS IS INTENDED ONLY FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES.***

Started with pulling off the upper grill. Pretty simple once you locate all the connection points.
  • First there are 2 plastic clips and two screws immediately on top to start with. (Got so excited I forgot to take a pic of this step...you'll figure it out)

    ...But here's one anyway to show the grill removed:


  • There are two tabs on either side of the grill that connect it to the top of the bumper. These tabs need to be worked out of their slot. The red arrow is pointing to the tab and the green arrow indicates the direction it should slide.





    This is one of the slots where those tabs go:


  • Next I removed the filler plates that are located under the headlight. There is a green clip that holds the filler plate in place. The red arrows are pointing to the two pieces where pressure should be applied to safely release the clip.



  • Once it's lose, slightly pull it away from the vehicle. Then pull the filler plate horizontally towards where the grill was. (Try to be careful, I broke both plastic pieces on the end of the filler plates that connect it to the fender. They still work but are technically broken.)









  • Now it's time to begin removing the bumper as that's the easier way to reach one of the headlight screws. Start by removing the two screws under the bumper where it connects to the wheel well plastics.



  • Also one screw at the ends of the bumper that connects it to the body near the fenders.



  • There are also bolts that connect the bottom side of the bumper to the frame. If you have the Toyota skid plate you'll need to remove it to get to these. I forgot to take a picture of this step but it's pretty self explanatory and you'll figure it out when you see it. They are 12mm heads
  • Remove the center clip in front of the radiator.



  • Now it's time to pull the ends of the bumper out of the clips that should be the only thing holding it in place now. They're located where the bumper meets the fender. The red arrow points to the clip. Just pull the bumper away from the vehicle forcefully yet controlled.



  • Now you should look something like this (but with headlights)



  • Now lets remove the top two screws from the top of the headlight.


  • Under the outer-most of the top two screws, you'll need to use pliers to help remove the clip to get the headlight out. Squeeze and push upward. UPDATE: This method isn't necessary. The tab should come away from the plastic clip with some force. Use a wide flatblade screwdriver, wedge it under the tab and twist and it should separate the two.



  • Then remove the screw from the side that was under the bumper. This is a 12mm head. Of course, I forgot to take a picture of this too.
  • Finally, there's this weird little clip in the bottom of each headlight under the fake plastic grill piece attached to the headlight. I used a flat blade screwdriver to help remove it.




I also started to disassemble the headlights but I'll post about that tomorrow.

I'll update this later to correct any errors that may be present also to add pictures I missed.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:03 PM   #79
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Talking Completing Black Headlight Mod

BHLM UPDATE - PART 2
Finished around 8pm last night. Looks AMAZING! But anyway...

***DISCLAIMER!! THESE ARE ONLY MY EXPERIENCES. I TAKE ABSOLUTELY NOT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR VEHICLE INCURRED BY FOLLOWING MY ACTIONS DESCRIBED HERE. THIS IS INTENDED ONLY FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES.***

...Back to our story. Now that the headlights are out, it's time to disassemble them. First, pre-heat the oven to 300 degrees and place the rack as low as it'll go. Get a piece of cardboard to place the headlight on while it's in the oven. Do not heat up the oven with cardboard inside!


  • There are 8 screws total. 2 of which are torx.

  • Now remove all of the plastics and bulbs on the rear of the headlights as well as the fake grill piece on the front.

  • Next, by now the oven should be up to 300. Turn off the oven and place the cardboard on the lower rack then place the headlight on top of the cardboard and make sure none of the headlight touches any metal in the oven. Set the timer for 10 minutes.

  • After 10 minutes has passed, take the headlight out of the oven using hot pads, and place it on an old towel on the counter top. Using a flatblade screwdriver begin prying from the side near the DTRL. There are 3 tabs you'll have to release as you're pulling in order to separate the headlight. It'll be extremely tough at first but if you can get it a couple inches it's easy from there. Just pull hard and watch for the tabs. Reheat the oven to 300, then turn it off again for the next headlight. (unfortunately no pic...there were no extra hands to hold it)

  • Now you need to clean up the channel where the glue holds the two halves together. This part sucks. there's really no easy way to do it but hard work will pay off. DO NOT USE GOOD TOOLS FOR THIS! Buy some crappy flatheads from some discount tool store like Harbor Freight. Anything cheap that you can just throw away because this stuff eventually becomes extremely difficult to remove from whatever tool you use for this task. You also should remove as much as you can from the clear half of the headlight.





  • Now remove the 2 torx screws holding the bezel to the clear half of the headlight.

  • Remove the orange reflector plastic from the bezel. Now it's time to paint!

  • I used Rustoleum Universal because they only had Rustoleum at Home Depot, and it was the only one there that said it was for plastics other than the 2x coat stuff that I feel is harder to control, and this was the only black in a satin finish. I was looking for Krylon Fusion, which is what everyone else swears by for this mod but, I couldn't find it anywhere. Tip for you people, I found out they have it at Pep Boys and possibly other auto parts stores. I wouldn't recommend the Rustoleum Universal (the one with the built-in pistol grip sprayer) as the cans have a tendency to splatter. While I still managed to achieve a satisfactory appearance, it was more difficult than it needed to be because of the design of the cans and there were a couple minor flaws that could have been avoided had I used different cans.

  • Here are some pics of the paint job and a close up of the splatters that I didn't notice until it was too late.




    The Splatter

  • After appropriate drying time, replace the orange reflector plastics into the bezels and place the bezels back into the clear half of the headlights with the torx screws.


  • Now take the 3M window weld and begin laying it into the channel on the lower half. I used WAY too much. It's not really a huge problem but it can make it messier than it needs to be. Try to make the bead of window weld as thick as the part of the channel it's going into. if it doesn't at least halfway sit into the channel, then it's too big. Roll it with your hands to try to thin it out for the skinnier parts. I found that it's natural size is perfect for the wider sections.
  • Place the two halves of the headlight together and press it together as much as you can, ensuring the two halves are aligned correctly before pressing them together. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees again and turn it off when it gets to 300. Place the cardboard in the oven and your headlight back on it for another 10 minutes.

  • After 10 minutes, remove the headlight and place it on an old towel. Press the two halves together with everything you've got! Be careful where you apply pressure as certain parts can bend if pressed hard enough. I almost collapsed the back of my headlamp. Use clamps to help press it together. USE as many clamps as you can fit on the thing...I did not use enough. There is one section where I couldn't figure out how to get a clamp on to it. Just do the best you can. Then replace all of the screws in the back of the headlight. Do this while the glue is still hot.

  • Now it's time to put all the pieces back onto the truck in the reverse order in which they were removed. Here's me about 2/3 of the way through.


...and here it is, all finished!!!







It was a lot of work but I think it was well worth it. Looks so much better! They should have this as a factory option.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:11 PM   #80
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I just wanted to point out a few things for future aspiring do it yourselfer BHLM modders...

First, good post. Thank you for taking the time.
The OP described bhlm on the 2012 / 2013 ... I just did this myself and its awsome.

Next, you *** DO NOT *** need to take off the bumper !!! Take a look under the truck and you can see the 1 bolt location holding it to the frame. It is NOt that hard to get to. 10mm and 1/4" ratchet. Note that it is a BOLT, not a screw, and not a nut. There is a nut just under this bolt, that is not the one you need to remove - it is the top most bolt, not nut. Again, it's not hard, just spin around and get your arm up inside. Done.

OK so now the lights wont come out, because the bottom clip is behind the bumper. Yeah. So if you took the bumper off you wouldnt have this problem. BUT, after a few attempts the puzzle can be solved by rotating the lights as pictured. You want the outer corners to go in and DOWN, then they can be rotated out.

[This is the stupidest light bulb holder I have ever seen.... Just keep pulling the brown 3 prong plug and it will come off]


About the paint:

I tried the KRYLON plastic paint (Wal mart had the Satin !!! - Pep Boys had gloss and flat but were out of flat. Nobody else carries in this area)

I have to say, I didn't like it. It did not flow well, splatered, and seemed like a cheap paint (the wattery seperated look)

So I tried the Rustoleom Univeral (SATIN, from LOWES), and it was MUCH better than the Krylon IMO... It sprayed more even, flowing, made a darker more uniform color, and was a little more glossy... I originally didnt want glossy, I wanted flat, but it actually turned out very nice.


They both dried nice but I wont trust the Krylon again, it didn't want to stick (And I prepped AND sanded first)....
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